Look what I made.

[BiNumber3]

Would the spacer be the same as if u were to just cut the back portion u need from a classic rt body?

[atech2]

I would think that would work, but the RT body being specific, I wouldn't want to destroy it potentionaly srewing it up to be un-useable.

[atech2]

Quick update.
I have a ULE body that I have tried to fit, but the front frame screw hole seems to be about .050 off of where I think it needs to be. I have a few things to measure and check, but apparently AGD changed some specs that has never been addressed. If someone wants to volunteer to take some measurements on a standard mag rail, maybe we can figure out where they changed things. I will finish this project, but want it to be right.

[splashkitsrock420]

ide love to help but i dont own a set of mics.

[atech2]

Thanks busby, very helpful. I was able to pick up an RT Pro today, so now I can take my own measurements. The front frame screw hole is about .038" off. This will be a require a minor modification to the rail to correctly space the bolt in the body. This may not sound like much, but could cause feeding proplems. Would welcome anyones thoughts on this, unfortunatly taking a picture of .038" may be out of the question.

[splashkitsrock420]

news...?

hows things going on the project

[Spider-TW]

The front frame screw hole is about .038" off.

Which direction?

[Hilltop Customs]

I thought classic rt and rtpro grip frames were interchangeable other than having to drill out the hole for the banjo bolt?(or the other way around add a bushing to use an classic rt frame on a rt pro) If they are interchangeable that should mean the hole center to center spacing should be the same

[atech2]

I thought that myself. The front frame screw hole is definatly spaced farther back on my RT Classic rail that on my RT Pro rail. I will take some accuate measurments and post them this weekend.

[snoopay700]

It'd be cool to shorten the front and mount the foregrip directly to the rail. IMO the RT foregrip is the coolest looking one available.

Hell yeah it is, that's one of the many reasons i got one.

I'm hopefully going to draw one of these up in solidworks and then get it made out of aluminum so i can anno it to match the body i get, also i'm going to make it slanted back like the original, i've been thinking about this for some time actually, and i want to make my classic rt look better.

[atech2]

Maybe I have confused some of you. The grip frame holes, front and rear, are the same center to center, twist lock to sear is the same center to center, but the relation to each other is a few 10ths of an inch different.

The reason grip frames are somewhat interchangeable, is the hole for the twist lock on the trigger frame is larger enough to compansate for this difference.

Before you all ask why I would be concerned with the twist lock hole since it's not used with a ULE. I am more concerned with the sear and feed location, but the twist lock is directly propotional to those locations. The grip frame ties it all together so they must all be correct for proper operation.

[Chris Nearchos]

hmm

so let me get this straight. you have the front hole off by .038". now is that forward or backwards?

either way what i would sugeest would work for moving it.


I would suggest milling a slot in that section of the rail (dont know if their is any problems with the air line there).....but from there mill a piece of aluminum to fit into that slot [with the same thickness as the rail]. from there all you need to do is mark and tap the hole in the correct location.


-Chris

[atech2]

Both the front and rear frame holes are spaced back farther with relation to the twist lock and sear. I plan on modifing the rail in a way similiar than you suggested Chris, but this would also mean modifing the grip frame to. We are talking .050 of an inch so not to difficult to do.

[Hilltop Customs]

wont this also cause some huge problems with the lvl 10? I mean if the rear frame screw is spaced back away from the sear pivot point, it means the valve is moved back and the bolt(since it is caught by the sear) is farther forward compared to the valve.

[snoopay700]

wont this also cause some huge problems with the lvl 10? I mean if the rear frame screw is spaced back away from the sear pivot point, it means the valve is moved back and the bolt(since it is caught by the sear) is farther forward compared to the valve.

Nope, he's gotta leave the hole fore the banjo bolt alone otherwise the marker won't work.