Look what I made.

[atech2]

The rear frame screw needs to be left alone for air passage and sear alignment. The front frame screw location needs to be modified for proper body alignment. I will try to draw something up to better illustrate this, but never done any CAD. In my day we used a pencil and straight edge. If anyone is good with this kind of thing, and understands the concept, your help would be appreciated.

[atech2]

Pretty crude, I know.


Or does this just make it more confusing?

[Hilltop Customs]

nope thats good

what I meant by my last post was not milling out the rear screw hole.....I meant this would cause problems with switching valves because of the extra space between the rear frame screw and the sear.(unless this difference is accounted for in the hole placing on the valve or sear)

that is weird though, I thought they were the same

edit: IDK how I got onto the idea of changing valves since it has nothing to do with this thread....just popped in my head.

[snoopay700]

That seems like a fairly simple fix though, i mean it is a minuscule difference that shouldn't be too hard to correct.

[atech2]

I have a couple of ideas, but want it to be perfect. I could do it by hand, but think I will machine it so it looks good also.

[luke]

Would you guys like me to look into making and stocking this part? If so, I would need to borrow a valve for a few weeks. Also, are you guys looking to use the RT valve with a NON RT rail?

If I'm stepping on any toes, I'll back off. No problem.

LMK

[atech2]

That's funny luke, I was thinking of sending you some machine work. Sending you a PM

[snoopay700]

Would you guys like me to look into making and stocking this part? If so, I would need to borrow a valve for a few weeks. Also, are you guys looking to use the RT valve with a NON RT rail?

If I'm stepping on any toes, I'll back off. No problem.

LMK

That'd be cool, something lighter, cause i don't wanna touch my stock rail.

[Watcher]

Would you guys like me to look into making and stocking this part? If so, I would need to borrow a valve for a few weeks. Also, are you guys looking to use the RT valve with a NON RT rail?

I'd buy one, if indeed it did work successfully in allowing a ULE body to fit on an AutomagRT.

That'd mean I wouldn't have to search for another 'mag to use primarily for the warp and using the RT only when I feel old school, I could just upgrade the one I have

From the looks of it I guess all you need to do is get the "sleeve" and drill a slot into the rail and grip-frame to move the screw forward...
Unless the valve and bolt had some crazy tolerance issue with the ULE body, but the valve is essentially the same as the others in dimentions, just the reg is thinner, right?


Idk if using an RT valve on a non RT rail would be possible... you'd have to mill the rail and replace the field strip screw with an air-fitting, I think.

[atech2]

Would be difficult to route the air on a non RT Classic rail. Not impossible, but modding would take alot of work, plus the banjo bolt orings need to seal in the rail.

[questionful]

Would be difficult to route the air on a non RT Classic rail. Not impossible, but modding would take alot of work, plus the banjo bolt orings need to seal in the rail.

I would think it's just a matter of drilling three holes, and tapping one of them.

[Watcher]

Any progress? Does it work? Does it not?

I still really want to ULE my RT Classic but I neither have the machine skill or the spare mainbody to try it...

[splashkitsrock420]

woot...!

ide love to know too....i really want to ule body my rt also........and im willing to pay for it to be done ......

[snoopay700]

Any news yet?

[atech2]

Been very busy. I want to get back to this project, but haven't had the time. I will surely let you all know one I get any time to work on this.