Non paintball build, toyota starlet build up(picture heavy)

[mag_lover09]

smaller pulley=faster spinning charger=more boost

JDM motor huh? punch it 30 over, add some cams, add exhaust.

i hope you have a sweet timing light. get your hands on a snap-on or blue point one, and time it at say... 5500 rpms? sounds good.

hope you dont snap the 4 lug set up on them there wheels speedy...

[hill160881]

Once the car is finished I will start acquiring the parts for a Engine rebuild, and once that is done it will be evil for sure. I already have the specs I want figured out.

11 to 1 compression, sodium valves, pullet proof lower end, aggressive cams and 14 psi boost. Dont forget the intake and injector. Should be nasty and around 300+ WHP and totally dependable. No dam rice with this compression and boost level, only raw power.

With this setuo it would do 0-60 in sub 3s,,,hehe.

[mag_lover09]

why not 10:1?

i did a head gasket and a timing belt on 4AG in a 1985 MRdeuce with no air tools or anything special, in a garage. sucked so bad i hope i never see one of those motors again.


if you get up in the 130mph range the front end of that car will probly lift up if you get a wind in your direction.... im dead serious. be careful.

[hill160881]

Actually they go really fast without down-forcers. But ya I get it, haha.


This is insane, yes that is 192 mph at 7 seconds.
<iframe width="853" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ZV_RODVZkWo?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[mag_lover09]

i didnt say the wouldnt go fast... im telling you if you decide to run it on the freeway one night late with a liquid friend in you it'll put you into a wall and a body cast lickin shots from hypodermic needles cuz its so light


but i like it so far... cant wait to see the outcome

[hill160881]

i didnt say the wouldnt go fast... im telling you if you decide to run it on the freeway one night late with a liquid friend in you it'll put you into a wall and a body cast lickin shots from hypodermic needles cuz its so light


but i like it so far... cant wait to see the outcome

Yep learned that the hard way in a built Z28 camero one night in highschool. Never floor an automatic with 400 hp on the freeway at 80. I saw god that night. lol Did not damage anything but almost ended really bad.

Thankfully i cant drink anymore but never needed it to do something really stupid.

[mag_lover09]

yea, mine was similar. if your front left tire blows out in a 100% blind cut-back goin 50+ you will hit a wall real hard

i miss the subaru

[hill160881]

The parts pile as of right now. The rest should be here by Wednesday.

[sjrtk]

Sweet looking good. I personally prefer air to air, but i tend to have turbo cars. I just retired a 370 whp (@16lbs of boost) Saab 9-3 . That was a fun little (ok not light but littleish) car 10.17 in the quarter with death inspiring torque steer off the line. I finally got that problem fixed to run a 9.40 and promptly get kicked off the track again for no cage. All of this with no check engine light and 28 mpg only 2 down from new but the chassis just couldn't handle the stress. But man was that car a sleeper i ran out of balls to push the car befor i ran out power. Makes me actually want to do a second one but weld up all the seems this time,

EDIT: I think the guy with the starlet needs a wider wheelie bar and i do like how he is able to heat the track up for him self.

[hill160881]

Air to air is great but I can put a 1 gallon can packed with ice in line of the heat exchanger for drag and get another 40 HP(with no extra stress on the engine). Also water to air is more effective for daily driving, and the reason I am using such a masive system that would feed a V8 is to avoid the Heat soak problems. Air to air is lighter but wieght is not a real issue, and I can get an air to air for 100 bucks if this one is to heavy. Also Air to air is usless under 80 mph according to the charts I have seen, and water to air works from the start.

Water to air is more problematic though as there are two radiators and the risk of leakes. But tracking down a boost leak in an air to air is next to impossible. They both have there pluses and minuses I guess..

That SAB sounds fun, and ya, I wont last but one run before i am told to get a cage. O well

[mag_lover09]

wheres the rifle going? i dont think that will work as a strut brace. better put that in your passenger seat

[hill160881]

More parts arriving

Water air intercooler and the ceramic clutch with racing lightweight fly wheel.

[sjrtk]

...

I know what you mean. I think the highest i ever had IAT was 160 under full boost though. The turbo wouldn't even start to produce boost until around 40 or so. But yes for you application i think the Air to water will work better, and Ice is nice. Good luck with the car and keep it between the lines even after the cage.

[hill160881]

The brakes, callipers and roters arived today along with the overdrive pully from Technotoytuning.




The radiator arrived and it is very nice. But for 300 bucks it better be.



The flywheel is not going to work, the bolt holes are off by two mm, I dont know why I waited this long to check this, i have had them for almost a a week.

So the flywheel goes back and I order a different one that will no doubt be more expensive.

Edit: yep got the Cusco flywheel an it was 600 by it self. These are the kind parts I dont want to cheap out on. Things that spin are worth it to take the weight out of.


Another point is I am including my mistakes so others learn from them as well. They happen even if they are usually omitted from threads. Live and learn. Then forget again.





So the parts list and total dammage

-Engine- JDM 4A-GZE with harness and ECU, purchased from Ebay(assuming they actually ship it) $1850 with FWD tranny and delivered
-Transmission- T50 SR5 purchased from woodfin(assuming they actually have it and ship it like they say) $635 delivered
-Clutch- Exedy stage 2 model number 16954B purchased on Amazon $300 delivered
-Flywheel- Cusco light weight flywheel for 83-87 corolla $600 delivered
-Coil over struts, shocks, role center adjusters and camber plates- purchased from technotoytuning ( http://www.technotoytuning.com/produ...hp?vehicleid=7 ) About $1500
-Front Strut bar- purchased from technotoytuning $120
-AE86 complete front brakes- purchased from technotoytuning $150
-Agze engine mounts and T50 corolla GTS bell housing- purchased from technotoytuning, around $250
-Replacement carpet- purchased from stockinteriors.com ( http://www.stockinteriors.com/items....Starlet_Carpet ) $300
-Dyna mat and pad- purchased from Amazon $300
-Radiator- Edit- koyo aluminum radiator purchased from Am Motorsports( http://www.amautosports.com/product....lla-ae86-r0747 ) $305
-Overdrive 175mm pulley from technotoytuning, $150
-Water/air intercooler and upgraded Bosch pump, $500
-Corolla GTS rear axle and disk brakes $300
-konig rewind wheels 14x7 +9 offset (Ebay) $500
-Tires-Cooper cobra 215/60/R14 $260

So the total parts came to $7720 prior to install.

I hope to get most of this installed for no more than $3500 and what does not make it into this amount I can do later myself. After this I will need to recoup financially for a few months, and I need to move to Sacramento.

[balla fo life]

How flush are you gonna make this thing I'm really excited to see it done. If I ever come down to visit mook I'd like to meet you and see this bad boy. Can't wait to see it all put toghter