Micro switch eyes?

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  • Chris Nearchos
    Aerospace Engineer Student
    • Aug 2004
    • 1910

    #16
    switch

    but if switch #2 (in the trigger frame) is designed to have to be released then pulled back again to fire then you wont have the f/a problem. i have seen those types of switches in radio shack. ( iam pretty sure they dont have a built in board, but i may be wrong). meaning no electronic board needed.
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    • neilius1234
      i love aka
      • Nov 2004
      • 45

      #17
      just do eyes man, a ton of people had problems with angels with the cops, id pay extra for eyes

      its just way better make sure therer break beam though

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      • trains are bad
        Registered User
        • Oct 2003
        • 1751

        #18
        but if switch #2 (in the trigger frame) is designed to have to be released then pulled back again to fire then you wont have the f/a problem.
        Well, you didn't say that. BTW, good luck finding such a switch, one that will give you a decent trigger pull at that.
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        • ojhspyro89
          The bushy man!
          • May 2004
          • 1078

          #19
          Wow i look back here and i hadnt seen these last few posts. I was rrefering this to someone else and i saw these.


          The only problem with eyes is the pople who make them charge you an arm and a leg for them. Is there a way to rig it your own way for like a 1/16 of the price if not less. I meen eyes are only 8 dollars or so. There are 2 leads coming out of most of them as i see and coulnt someone just buy some and see how they work then tap them into the board or microswitch?
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          • trains are bad
            Registered User
            • Oct 2003
            • 1751

            #20
            You have to have a board with software to make sense of the signals coming from the eyes. Eyes are not switches but proximity detectors.

            Get a morlock board and tinker away.

            Or get a faster hopper. If you have a halo, you should not have chopping unless there is a problem somewhere else.
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            • FallNAngel
              Registered User
              • Apr 2003
              • 1076

              #21
              Originally posted by trains are bad
              You have to have a board with software to make sense of the signals coming from the eyes. Eyes are not switches but proximity detectors.
              I don't think that's true. You believe could rather easily rig up eyes on an Angel without an extra board. If you did need an extra board, I'm sure you could rig up a small daughter board for the stock board.
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              • ScatterPlot
                Not pop, it's all Coke
                • Jan 2002
                • 1960

                #22
                You could probably rig a zener up in there to give it more of a digital signal than an analog, but the problem remains that trains are bad mentioned (good call BTW, I didn't see that). I know the concept you are thinking of with that one-activation/pull thing, slightly similar to one of those grill igniters, but I don't think Radio Shack has them. They would give you a bunch of extra length AND resistance, since it must snap by a little point thing on a spring, then be able to return past that point reliably every time. It would be better to make a separate board for it. And BTW, the stuff to actually make the eyes themselves (not the board too) is like 2 dollars. But it's the other part that's the trouble; converting these signals into eyes. Can't just wire them in series with the trigger, then you get full auto mode.



                Aside from that, the microchip thing would take up a ton of space. You would have to have something completely separating the switch itself from the chamber of the gun, otherwise ball breaks would kill it. Any shell and probably even paint under that lever would keep the thing from activating.



                What might be a better idea is this:
                Combine the 2 ideas. A pin activated by the balls pushes between an IRLED and a photoresistor, thus eliminating false shell triggers. Of course there would need to be some sort of return mechanism, like a .1 gram spring or something rediculously small like that.





                Meh. Let's stick with what we got, this is all to complicated. Not to say it can't be done, but it would be hard and probably not very cost effective.
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                • captian pinky
                  Bearded Works

                  • Oct 2004
                  • 2755

                  #23
                  y doesnt he just use a warp feed or a force feed hopper that way it has force to activate it although i dont no what the force that they put out is bugt thats my 2 cents

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                  • RazorMonkey
                    Registered User
                    • Jul 2003
                    • 289

                    #24
                    SENSI is actually the switch antichop... Not COPS...

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                    • mark_426
                      I kill Halos...
                      • May 2003
                      • 1040

                      #25
                      COPS and Sensi use identical hardware, but not software. COPS was user-adjustable (You could set the sensitivity, and you could set the delay) while Sensi was self-adjusting, based on the mode you selected. They even use the same, exact, hardware (the rod protruding into the breech). No eye, laser, IR system in either, no nothing. The IR3 means infrared 3, referring to the IR in the back to change settings, thats why it is MEM 6 COPS 3 etc.

                      COPS = Crystal Operated Paint Sensor


                      Just let this thread die, please.

                      Another selection:

                      "If you are having a problem with your COPS sensi sensor not registering the balls dropping here is a possible solution.
                      I asked an angel tech what the COPS sensor actually was and he told me that it is a piezo electric sensor. Meaning the thin bar that is yellow in color is attached to a piezo electric crystal. When the bar vibrates it causes the crystal to vibrate. Piezo electric crystals create a voltage when they vibrate (they also work in reverse. Apply a voltage and they vibrate. Used in quartz watches. The quartz vibration is what keeps accurate time). The electronic board detects that voltage.

                      Here is what worked for me. I had my grap frame screwed on too tight. This caused that plastic pin to press against the yellow bar too tightly and it did not vibrate properly. So if you are registering only 1 in 50 balls try loosing your grip frame a little. If your grip frame is on too loosely the same thing will happen (the bar will not vibrate). So change the tension a little."
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                      • RazorMonkey
                        Registered User
                        • Jul 2003
                        • 289

                        #26
                        Thanks for the clarification

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