My Y gripped emag

[the electrician]

[QUOTE=trains are bad]Not so, I'm way quicker than that, and insulated the whole back of the board with electrical tape, it's just not in the pictures which is test-fitting. I had to use black though, because it's all I have.


ah. good. from the pic I assumed it was not insulated during operation. my bad. well I hope it's nothing too major with the board.

the SM-6 should be able generate 5 lb. of force at 100 psi.
I'm running an RT on/of in my set-up and it needs 40 psi to run right with the 3/8" bore MPA-3 . so that's about 4.4lbs.

I'll bet it would work. the advantage would be the higher possible ROF. the possible disadvantage would be the lack of headroom left on the input psi going to the valve. a little added friction in the middle of a game could take you from 20 bps to 0 bps quick. in other words, the reliability could possibly suffer. but that's all speculation.

nice job trains, hope you get your board back soon.

we should both post videos of our contraptions in action

[trains are bad]

'm running an RT on/of in my set-up and it needs 40 psi to run right with the 3/8" bore MPA-3 . so that's about 4.4lbs.

The two are not directly comparable because mine is entirely different than yours in the way it interfaces with the sear and so the leverage might be way different. It's good to know that force value though, for future referece.

Like I said, I'm running ballpark 80 psi, because I can't see any disadvantage to running MORE pressure than is needed.

I forgot to get batteries again. Take it.

MAX ROF is not really important to me, I plan to run my bps cap at 15 or less.

[trains are bad]

Pic of ram

[Southpaw]

Can you list the Part numbers for the Solenoid that you used and any other specs that you have or would like to share.

[trains are bad]

I got my scuba tank filled yesterday, borrowed my friend's halo this morning and did some FA testing. This thing cranks 20bps WITH PAINT like it was made for it. Which it was.

8ms dwell, eyes off, stock holdoff, 70psi.

I'm still struggling with trigger bounce. I have to run my debounce filter really high to prevent doubles. I tried an 80g omron switch, same switch used in a lot of electros, still getting the bounce.

I'm still so unbelivably happy now that my basically unchanged mag is just as fast as my friend's angel.

[the electrician]

that's a pretty low sear dwell time. pay close attention to the wear on the bolt, and perhaps the sear. you will probably see some accelerated wear on the bolt.

about 20 msec of dwell is needed to eliminate excessive bolt wear.

what happens is that with a really short dwell, the sear is coming back up and hiiting the bolt before the bolt is reset back in the ready position. it will slow the bolt down just a bit, more importantly, it tends to scrape the "sear catch" lip on the bolt. once the hardened exterior of the bolt is worn through by the harder metal of the sear, it will start to get really hard for the sear to release the bolt also.

not all design are the same, so you might not have too much of a problem, just keep an eye on it.

another thing that can occur with the combination of a low dwell time, lvl10, and a highly tuned on/off (short pin or lot's of shims).
when the bolt is coming back, and the sear comes up and pushes against it before the bolt is fully reset, the highly shimmed on/off will start to let air into the dump chamber too soon. then the bolt will not be able to reset properly.

try increasing the dwell, but keeping the ROF register at 20 bps. this will seem like it will decrease the recharge time you have available, but if it still shoots 20 bps just as well, then that tells you that even though the sear was coming up and hitting the bolt early, the on/off is tuned properly and is not letting air into the dump chamber until; the bolt is fully reset anyway. whatever time this dwell setting is, is the optimum setting for your particular set-up. times will vary with different lvl10 set-ups, different on/off set-ups ..etc

sounds like you're having a great time with it. I love it. I've had great fun with mine and learned alot about how my mag really functions. makes for good threads too

[trains are bad]

Cool. I just figured the lowest dwell that reliably tripped the sear would be the fastest.

I'm still not sure whether I will keep the current LX setup or go with the short spring or even LVII bolt to increase efficiency. I will have to gain more trust in my eyes. Based on your observations, anything that will let me turn my velocity adjusment down will make it easier for the sear to release the bolt, even reduce bolt wear.

[trains are bad]

New pics.
After what TE said, I inspected my sear and can already see where the top is smooth from rubbing the bolt, after only about a case or two of paint. When I get time I'm going to try painting the top of the sear with dry erase marker, then firing. By increasing my dwell I should be able to find the shortest dwell where the bolt doen't contact the sear. If the school would only let markers on campus I could subject it to the high speed camera.

[the electrician]

cool grips !!

looks good trains.

yeah, you should be able to come up with a good low dwell that won't cause damage. good idea to use the dry erase marker. I'll have to try that too.

you can polish the top edge of the sear, but you have to be careful not to round off the catch part. really it's the bolt that gets the damage. it is not quite as hard as the sear.

your bounce problem should have been eliminated by using an 80g switch. what are you using for trigger return? a spring, a magnet, or jus the switch? you really should not use just the switch. it just causes them to wear out faster and youll never control the bounce on the mag.

Cherry makes a DG series switch that is identical to the Omron DF2 series. digikey part # CH621-ND or CH624-ND. they are 140g switches. you could try one of those if you don't want to add a triger return.

[trains are bad]

I'm using rare earth magnets as trigger return. I haven't tried adjusting the tension, I adjusted the trigger to where I want it as a goal and am trying to get it to work right there. Did I mention that I'm picky?

Thanks for the switch suggestion! I will definately try it. Going from 25g to 80g switch made barely any difference in trigger feel. I'm putting a lot of leverage to the switch which may be part of the problem. But right now, I put my marker in full auto I have this pesky issue where I pull the trigger, the marker goes full auto, and then keeps firing full auto. Usually I can make it stop by pulling and releasing the trigger again. This is with NO AIR at all so it can't be mechanical bounce.

New microrock location. Note the big loop of hose and wires running about are temporary.

[dudedude]

Do you have your firing point set at the very start of your trigger pull, or have an uber short pull? Could be that you aren't giving the microswitch enough return slack to reset itself. Do you get two clicks for every trigger pull (One for close switch, one for switch reset)?

From what you're describing about full auto, I'm willing to bet that this is the culprit.

[MonsterMag]

looks great , good job

[slade]

Looks nice! I sort of want to try something like this, but it will cost a lot and i dont exactly have a comprehensive knowledge of electronics.

[noahyay]

ive been trying soo hard to get this working but its a failure and so now you may hear my saga minus the several times ive given up: (not in order)

ripped apart my only mouse for microswitches
got my mom to get me another mouse
bought friends dragonfire for board
bought clippard parts smav 3 and that little 2 lb ram
couldnt get it in my y frame
epic saga about taking a hammer/drill/dremmel to my y frame
involved lots of cuts on both hands and the trashing of 4 drillbits
decided to put my solenoid in the y frame
this took 2 days
got it in
drilled two holes in the back and wanted to make the solenoid push the smav3 way
took a torch to my y frame (BIG MISTAKE!!!!!)
it came out ok
misc board soldering
broke my board
figured out my dragon drop forward adapter will perfctly fit the ram in the y frame perpendicular to the sear
grinded it to hell
not finished yet
went through 2 microswitches sanding them down to fit
got magnets
made wood piece for ram
bought a micro rock
bought ca to 1/8 adapter


and so thats my saga
and its hell
when i start working this month ill make some money and buy the pnemadyne solenoid and the manifold and try to hook it up

need a barrel first though
and my ult hasnt arrived in a month -damn

[trains are bad]

Well I remounted the switch where it recieves LESS leverage from the trigger, therefore moving the switch further with a given trigger movement, and dropped to a 25g switch to get the light trigger pull back. That allowed me to lower my debounce consdireably and I deemed the marker tournament ready, after firing several cases of paint and doing battery life testing up to 20,000+ rounds.

Then I had it on the floor yesterday behind my desk, because it was charging, and I forgot it was there, and scooted my chair back and stomped the leg right down on the trigger mangling it horribly. It's all good though because I have a better, wider one I got in the dealers forum, it just needs fitted. So I'm going to go home today and redo the new trigger.

I'm also going to wire up a switch to turn my eyes off mechanically. They can be disabled by holding the trigger but that is irritating because it always boots with them on and you can't do that in full auto.

I also bought some apache shells.