My Y gripped emag

[trains are bad]

new superwide trigger, totally rips. I'm so glad I stomped the old one forcing me to install this one. You can see where the drill slipped while doing the setscrews. Doh. and the blue stuff is loctite.

[saml604]

Glad you like the trigger. I haven't gotten arount to putting one on a frame yet, but I like the wider feel. Cool project by the way.

[temps]

is there a reason for useing the microrock? Or will any cocker lpr work for this mod?

[trains are bad]

The microrock is the only LPR that I know of that is consistent at such high input pressures.(900+psi)

spyder noid

[tubbs14]

1st off i think mags are ugly
2nd your gun is beautiful and yes i do know it is a mag
i commend you for doing what you did good job you impressed some1 who doesnt like the look of mags.

[slade]

1st off i think mags are ugly

aparently you have yet to see any mag besides a classic. www.jayloo.com

especially here: http://www.jayloo.com/photo_gallery/...&pGROUP_ID=105

question for trains are bad: how long did it take you to complete this mod?

[trains are bad]

question for trains are bad: how long did it take you to complete this mod?

2/3 of a semester, +/- two weekends, a lunch break, and a week here or there waiting for parts

Given the stuff I could probably do it it a day or two.

Finished pics with cut down, gutted apache. Total weight ready to rock no paint is 7lb 11oz.

[trains are bad]

***UPDATE"****
After many trials and frustrations over morlock boards that were mysteriously stopping working, we found the culprit. A ridge in the frame was perfectly positioned to make contact with the tiny bits of conductor that show (that are recessed, even) on the plug! Something that I would have never imagined possible because the plug is plastic and the bits of metal are so recessed I imagined I could butt it up against the frame without any worries. It just so happened to be perfectly positioned.

Tag were super nice about this, I am super embarrassed about (seemingly) being one of the stupid customers that can't handle something as simple as installing a morlock board. All that was needed was a second with a file to knock down the ridge and a bit of tape for good measure. I salute TAG for being so helpful and reasonable, and apologize if I ever made it sound like it was something wrong with thier boards, even though, in my defense, for a while it really really did seem that way! I triple checked all connections and even built a separate harness outside the marker for testing to make sure it WASN'T an installation problem, but shorting out the plug had sent the board into a software loop by that time (they said the rewrote thier software to prevent this from happening in the future). I was testing this on the oscilliscope in the lab. I was triple checking all the complicated stuff, and was bested by a burr of aluminum.


This marker can now became my main tourney marker, and I have new faith in the reliability of (properly installed) electronics.

[Duck Hunt]

Hahahahaah ouch!! Thats gotta be a kick in the teeth

Trains, any way you can get a video of this thing in action??? Get back to me.

Sean

[CKY_Alliance]

JUst wondering did you buy your board straight form tag?If so how much ive looked on there site but cant find the price...maybe im just dumb..i saw it on another site for like 128 with eyes and wires.

[trains are bad]

DH, trust me if there was ANY WAY I could get you video I would. If I had the money I would have a digital video camera for riding (bikes) anyway, but I just don't have the buget. My teammate has an analog camera, and I have an ancient RCA vhs recorder that works. I imagine I could buy one of those analog to digital converters at radioshack for like $90 and use it with my friend's good sony but I'm not sure exactly how well that works. I know all about posting pictures but have never done video. Does anyone have any advice?

The marker can be set to fire by bumping it if you were so inclined, it compares to my friend's (adjusted by me) BKO and I prefer it by FAR over my teammates shocker trigger. All I can say is trust me, it rips. Think deadliwind hAir trigger demo.

Also (for testing purposes) it's just great to set the bps cap at like 16, turn AFA code on 2 and set to kick in at 10 bps and just mow. I never thought my mag would ever be so fast. Obnoxiously fast.

Also, the best part is how the intellifeed works in conjunction with the eyes. If the eyes don't see paint and you pull the trigger, it won't fire, but it will spin the warp. Meaning I can run it dry without worrying about chopping, then just dump paint in it and start walking the trigger and it will fire as soon as it gets primed. Same thing if you tilt it. I can turn it on its side and just walk the trigger. It will fire as fast as it can feed at that angle without chopping. Then you just tilt it up a bit when it stops feeding and it starts shooting again.

I got my board straight from TAG, it was $150 with the install kit, though I now owe them a good bit more (but not at ALL unreasonable) for their time and trouble.

[txaggie08]

what solenoid did you use. ive been digging through yours and electricians thread and cant find a part number(or even a brand) ive also dug on the net to no avail

[trains are bad]

numatics tm102v12L1

[slade]

how did you mount the microswitch?

and the noid you used is a 12 volt noid... i think you might have answered this in one of your posts, but what was the power source you used? will the noid run on 9 volts?

[the electrician]

those little nubs of metal will get ya!

happens to the best of us. I once stuffed an autocoker frame so full, when I put the grips on, it wouldn't work. turns out the grips put pressure on the wires which flexed the connector down and made the solder points on the back the board poke through the tape and short on the frame. when I took the grips off, it would work again!

right on man, good to here you're gun is a paintball rope making machine!