e-pneu mag, mpa-3 pressure question

[temps]

So I set up my stuff to test out to see how much psi i need to set the lpr at to trip the sear.. went all the way to 70 psi and it was not able to trip the sear (its a clasic valve mini mag) And the solenoid that I'm useing doesnt go over 72 psi

So I figure I need to A: buy a new solenoid to allow more pressure or B: lower the force required to trip the sear...

A: new solnoid.. dont really want to spend my money on a new solenoid.. but probly cheaper then a ult, its also a classic valve so i would like to stay away from the ult.

B: lowering the force.. first thing that comes to mind ult.. .. what about removing the spring from the mpa-3 would that drop the force required by enough to trip the sear? Anyone have any other ideas on how i could lower the force.. (without moving the position of the mpa-3 i tried it and it put a kink in the hose.. next time i'm working on it i'll see if there is a possiblity of this but right now i dont think so)

[Wassupstranger67]

So I set up my stuff to test out to see how much psi i need to set the lpr at to trip the sear.. went all the way to 70 psi and it was not able to trip the sear (its a clasic valve mini mag) And the solenoid that I'm useing doesnt go over 72 psi

So I figure I need to A: buy a new solenoid to allow more pressure or B: lower the force required to trip the sear...

A: new solnoid.. dont really want to spend my money on a new solenoid.. but probly cheaper then a ult, its also a classic valve so i would like to stay away from the ult.

B: lowering the force.. first thing that comes to mind ult.. .. what about removing the spring from the mpa-3 would that drop the force required by enough to trip the sear? Anyone have any other ideas on how i could lower the force.. (without moving the position of the mpa-3 i tried it and it put a kink in the hose.. next time i'm working on it i'll see if there is a possiblity of this but right now i dont think so)

If you remove the spring from the mpa-3 it might not reset? It would have to use the reactive trigger to reset it! It might work I would try it, a mpa-3 is only around $5 its might be worth it. I have a ult in my x-valve and i run my pressure up around 70! I think that you can shorten the on/off pin your self to make it act like a ult. Also a level 10 bolt would help. It dosent hold as much pressure aginst the sear. If i remember right the sock on/off on my X-valve I had it tripping at 80psi!

[BigEvil]

I have about 70-100 psi going into the mpa3. I also am using a 75 rated noid. You should be able to run a little more into it.

[temps]

Bigevil are you useing a ult? what is your contact point on the sear? far down or high up? also what solenoid are you useing?


wassup, thanks for the info! i'll look into if the lvl 10 reduceses the force or not.. and 80 psi for an x valve, i'll try puting 80 into my solenoid hopefully that will work.. Also what is your contact position on the sear? high or low?

[Wassupstranger67]

Bigevil are you useing a ult? what is your contact point on the sear? far down or high up? also what solenoid are you useing?


wassup, thanks for the info! i'll look into if the lvl 10 reduceses the force or not.. and 80 psi for an x valve, i'll try puting 80 into my solenoid hopefully that will work.. Also what is your contact position on the sear? high or low?

Low I tryed to get it as low as I could when I built it!

[the electrician]

go back and read my posts in the original thread I posted: "finally finished my homemade e-mag" I explain many things in detail.

you can use an RT on/off to reduce the initial needed force, this will make it move easier.it will not reduce your bps like the ULT does in a classic valve. you can get rid of the spring in the MPA-3, this will take a pound of the required force, roughly a 10 psi reduction. BUT the washer might lay over inside the MPA-3. might need to use a nylon spacer instead of a washer.

there is no reason you can't get it down below 70 psi.

other things are using buna-n o-rings in the RT on/off because the have alot less friction. BUT you must be using compressed air to do this. I use buna-n o-rings in the on/off and the lvl 10.

[temps]

ok I'll try removing the spring.. if that doesnt work i'll look into ordering an rt on/off.. but a few questions about it after reading your posts you say you used a modified rt on/off.. would i need to modify it? or could i use a stock rt on/off? but the 80psi minimum to 40 psi sounds promising

you could try, but with the standard valve, and just a mechanical trigger, you could have problems getting it to work without modifying it. it will make the trigger pull lighter, but the pin will not have as much force to return the sear all the way with your finger on the trigger. this will cause bad sear and bolt wear.

Will this be a problem on an electric trigger?

Also I would like to add that my contact point for the mpa-3 is about 3-4 mm above the bottom of the sear.

[BigEvil]

Bigevil are you useing a ult? what is your contact point on the sear? far down or high up? also what solenoid are you useing?

I left about 1/8 of an inch between the ram of the mpa3 and the sear. I have the mpa3 hitting the low point of the sear, since I think it gives a little more leverage at that point.

I will get you a link to the noid im using. I just tested it out, since I am forever waiting on a damn Morlock board from KM2.

If you take the spring out of the mpa3, use a little crazy glue to hold it to the snap ring so it wont fall.

I am using an Xvalve with the rt on/off btw. I started this project so I could build my brother an Eframe for his classic RT.

[the electrician]

you need the piston of your MPA-3 to hit right where the clevis used to be installed. right where the hole is. down low like big evil said. sounds like you've got it too high and your causing it to loose leverage, making it use more pressure to get more force.

yes modifying the RT on/off is helpful to get better recharge and eliminate some of the reactivity that you don't really want. it will work okay without modifying, but alot better if you do.

once you get it I can tell you what I did, but I don't have one close by right now. it's simple, open the top hole up a bit, and the side port holes, use a few shims and an e-mag quad o-ring on top. stuff like that.

that quote you have of me is a bit out of context, I don't remember what it was refering to with out more of the paragraph.

I have to recommend using a solenoid smilar to mine to get the full potential from this mod. I'm designing a new mod for the classic valved, RT on/off electro-mag that will enable about 22 bps I am estimating. while using the lvl10. but you have to use the same parts I am.

[Wassupstranger67]

Here I posted some pics