Anyone done a Benchmark pneumag?

[benzy2]

Ok so for the last few days I have been trying to get the pneumag components to fit into a double triggered benchmark frame. I was wondering if anyone has done this before with some pointers. I have gotten the msv2 mounted as good as I can easily do myself and it seems solid and I have the lpr mounted fine. So Im mainly looking for some tips on the easiest way to get the mpa3 in there,

[wjr]

Ok so for the last few days I have been trying to get the pneumag components to fit into a double triggered benchmark frame. I was wondering if anyone has done this before with some pointers. I have gotten the msv2 mounted as good as I can easily do myself and it seems solid and I have the lpr mounted fine. So Im mainly looking for some tips on the easiest way to get the mpa3 in there,

I did (and am still doing) a pneumag mod to a benchmark. To get the MPA-3 in there I drememled out the top a bunch. Then I took a drill press and drilled out more space to fit the QEV in there.

For me the hardest part was mounting the 3 way. I ended up getting a machinist to help me with it.

I'm still working on it though. Right now what happens is I air everything up and I pull the trigger. The actuator extends, but it doesn't fire the gun. I'm still trying to figure it out...

[BigEvil]

I'm still working on it though. Right now what happens is I air everything up and I pull the trigger. The actuator extends, but it doesn't fire the gun. I'm still trying to figure it out...

Increase the LPR reg output. I also found that the mpa3 works best if there is a little space between it and the sear. Also make sure the mpa3's ram hits the bottom the the sear leg, about where the hole for the trigger rod goes.

[wjr]

Increase the LPR reg output. I also found that the mpa3 works best if there is a little space between it and the sear. Also make sure the mpa3's ram hits the bottom the the sear leg, about where the hole for the trigger rod goes.

I increased the pressure all of the way. I also made sure that the ram was hitting the bottom of the sear. I'll try leaving some space next time though.

[benzy2]

I have dremeled a ton out of the frame. I need to do some more though. I need just a hair more to move the mpa3 down about a tenth of an inch and I also need to move it towards the trigger a tenth. Too bad I wont have access to the dremel till friday. As for mounting the MSV2 I took two strips of sheet metal I had laying around and cut and bent them to make a mount. They screw into the bottom grip screws and then bend in and up and sandwich the msv2. I was afraid they would be flimsy but are very sturdy. I would have loved to have gotten something more precise and stronger but this will work for now. I also noticed that I needed to grind a bit of the sear (bottom side) to get it to drop low enough. I didnt want to grind out the metal around the grip holes so I ground a bit of the sear and it seems to drop far enough now.

[wjr]

I have dremeled a ton out of the frame. I need to do some more though. I need just a hair more to move the mpa3 down about a tenth of an inch and I also need to move it towards the trigger a tenth. Too bad I wont have access to the dremel till friday. As for mounting the MSV2 I took two strips of sheet metal I had laying around and cut and bent them to make a mount. They screw into the bottom grip screws and then bend in and up and sandwich the msv2. I was afraid they would be flimsy but are very sturdy. I would have loved to have gotten something more precise and stronger but this will work for now.

You're way sounds better then my way. I just went with what the machinist suggested. He cut out the back of the frame so the end of the valve could slide in. Then he drilled two holes and put rivets through them to hold in the valve. It works, but i would rather have a mounting bracket.

[the electrician]

uh, benzy, you remember the original pnuemag that used a valve directly behind the trigger?

http://home.kc.rr.com/theelectrician...agsideview.jpg

of course that was with a smav-3 valve. a little smaller than the msv fabco valves.

not really the first "pnuemag" altogehter but I don't remember anybody else doing the same method as this. nicad was making some great things back then , but I didn't know about it at the time punisher was the only one I knew of who used cocker recocking parts on a mag. he's the one who I went to advice for.

basically, I milled out the frame from inside the top to the same width as the diameter of the mpa-3. then it can drop in from the top. of course it is cut down length wise to about .780" or so. I used 10-32 setscrews to "clamp" it from the sides right where the flats are on the back of the mpa-3 then made a small bracket to go back and screw to the frame. here's a pic:

http://home.kc.rr.com/theelectrician...magmodguts.jpg


Wjr - sounds like something is bound, or hitting something it's not suppose to. can you physically use a tool to actuate the sear? when everything is gassed up , and in place, take a screwdriver or whatever and actuate the sear. does it work? if so then there is something wrong with the pneumatics side of things. if it doesn't work then the sear is being stopped by something, or the on/off pin is just plain not coming down and letting air in the dump chamber.

so try and isolate the problem by starting with making sure the gun is in working order first, then move on to the mod.

[wjr]

Wjr - sounds like something is bound, or hitting something it's not suppose to. can you physically use a tool to actuate the sear? when everything is gassed up , and in place, take a screwdriver or whatever and actuate the sear. does it work? if so then there is something wrong with the pneumatics side of things. if it doesn't work then the sear is being stopped by something, or the on/off pin is just plain not coming down and letting air in the dump chamber.

I ordered a cf frame just to test the gun. It works fine. I'm not sure if I tested it with the benchmark though. I'm going to see tomarrow.

[benzy2]

The cool thing I found out when doing this project was just down the road there is a store that sells all sorts of pneumatic crap from tiny barbs to huge rams. For all the parts it cost like 25 bucks after tax. Im going to do another conversion on an I frame or logic frame and I know exactly where Im going for the parts.

[RRfireblade]

Probably not much help but , yeah.

Different Benchy tho. I'm not even sure what year it goes back too other than the non vert Micro body and preproduction Medusa/Sling grip frame.




Either way they're some of the tightest frames to try and fit it all in. Good Luck.

[wjr]

Did you use clippard parts or did you use custom made pneumatics?
Just sort of curious. This was one of the pneumags that I saw that made me want to make one.

[RRfireblade]

The very first concept was done on an even older frame using box stock WGP front end parts.

This one had had about every concievable combination of pneus applicable to such a task. None did I find satifactory for what I was trying to achieve at the time. I knew what I needed but no one made such a thing.

That frame ultimately ended up with off the shelf 'stock' pneumatic switching that was heavily modified. The switching got refined much later.

Clip rams were about the only items I used from them. Right now I'm not even sure what's in there now. Maybe Bimba before they sold out ?

My little brother uses that marker alot and it's over there now.

[benzy2]

Well since I got home and can use the tools again I have gotten it to cycle very very well. Man it is such a different beast. The only problems I have yet to finish up with it are trigger stops and taking out the side to side slack of the crappy stock benchmark trigger. Im going to see if I can shim the trigger side to side to take out the wobble and then drill and tap it for front and back slack.

[the electrician]

you can order an intelliframe trigger for like $20.

a bit pricey, but it definitely feels better.
just an idea.

[benzy2]

I had to slightly sand the sides of the trigger and then I could get one of the thinnest washers I had in beside the trigger. After sanding it it fits just perfect and has very little side to side slop. There isnt much front travel or post travel so I may just let those go for now. They arent that big of a deal. I dry fired it and I goldwaved the video at just at 12bps(bounces from 12-11ish). That may not be killer fast to many but I can only shoot an electro at about 13-14, closer to 13 so it is big for me.

EDIT: Here is the video:

http://media.putfile.com/benzy2s-pneumag

The sound is light after I talk but if you turn it up you can still hear it well. I wish I had air for once when I wanted to make a video. It seems like every time anyone trys to make a video they are out of air.

I really love the new feel to the gun. I definitly want to do it again on an Iframe though. I think that would be a bit easier and maybe end with slightly better results.