Anyone done a Benchmark pneumag?

[Shingo]

Any chance you can post some pics? interested on how you laid out the pneumatic guts in a benchy frame.

~Shingo~

[benzy2]

Yeah I can but it will be a little while. I should have them by tonight though. They were a bit of a PITA to get done well. Its pretty ugly but it shoots(cycles) well.

[benzy2]

That brace that screws into the msv2 is on both sides and is held in place by the bottom grip screw. The frame was dremelled out where the msv2 is for it to fit and operate right. The top was massively dremelled out to fit the mpa3 and then two holes were drilled for set screws. The dye grips were cut in the front so they are now panel style. They also had a hole drilled in the top of them to fit around the new set screw that holds the mpa3. Pretty generic beyond that.

[benzy2]

As I was running low on air I was also trying to do the final adjustments which is a mistake I know. The problem I ran into (as the tank was low) was that the on/off pint took a while to reset. For those more in the know what all would cause this? I assume that my main problem is lack of air. Are there any other causes for a slow moving on/off pin? I have heard mention to bent pins. Mine doesnt look bent but then again if a very small amount would cause problems I dont have anything better than to just eyeball it. Oh and I had never aired this valve up before I started this project.

[benzy2]

I was just not happy with the way things were working so I decide the problem sat with the pin that connects the trigger to the msv2. Dont get me wrong it made the pull a ton lighter but not what I have heard claims of. The hole I drilled was at a slight angle(the wrong way) and the hole was too big for the pin. It bound up just enough to make the trigger pull heavier than I expected. I drilled a new hole higher on the trigger(but it hits farther out on the msv2 bar) and with a slimmer bit and boy it made all the difference in the world. I was going to sell this gun and do another conversion but I may keep this and just buy another now. Man i love these things.

On a good note it gave me the drive to buy a drill press and an all new set of bits. The press was cheap and will need to be taken easy on but it is a heck of a lot better than using a hand drill like this frame had done.

[kcombs9]

Is there any advantage to haveing the pin that hits the 3way that low on the trigger? i just got the Z-Grip today, and was trying to figure out where to have the pin run from, and where on the 3way arm should it be hiting, on my other Pneu mod i have the pin close to where the old one sat and its pritty high on the 3way arm.

Kyle

PS: love the Z-grip and i dont even have it mounted yet.

[benzy2]

Is there any advantage to haveing the pin that hits the 3way that low on the trigger? i just got the Z-Grip today, and was trying to figure out where to have the pin run from, and where on the 3way arm should it be hiting, on my other Pneu mod i have the pin close to where the old one sat and its pritty high on the 3way arm.

Kyle

PS: love the Z-grip and i dont even have it mounted yet.

Well since I was using a msv2 that was pivoted oposite the trigger I didnt think it would make any difference as the higher you go on the trigger the farther out you go on the msv2 lever. I thought it would be a one to one trade off and it wouldnt change much and it was eay to drill there. The higher spot seems to be nicer all around but I think that has more to do with the sizing and angle of the hole more than the position.

[benzy2]

I have a few more questions but none deal with the frame. When you drill and tap another hole in the front of the ASA what is done to line this up parallel to the barrel? Once you have it set correctly do you just lower the bit and go to it or is there more prep work? Im new to doing much of this and just dont know the entire procedure for drilling holes the correct way.

I have bought a 1/8NPT tap and the right drill bit for it(as to the directions from the tap). I plan on doing this myself and just wanted to know the correct way to do it. I also have read a little about tapping holes and it seems like you want to almost do a one step forward two steps back thing to keep from gumming up the tap threads. Also slow and steady seems to be the way to go. I was wondering what you guys do to start the threads straight into the hole? I need more reading on this and thought I would ask here.

Finally seems to be a question on the rail. I have seen a few pictures of finished milling on rails for pneumatic hosing. I know the drill press cant mill and shouldnt/wont be used that way. But could I mount the rail to the drill press standing up and just drill it with a regular bit? I dont want to use the dremel as that gets ugly. It doesnt look like there is a ton of material to be taken out and could seem possible. Again, sorry for the question but Im new to what can and cant be done on a drill press. Also is there any way to dress it up afterwards? I saw one job that looked like a metal gasket(sorry for the poor description) was put in at the front edge of the rail and the hose was ran through that and another looked as if it had a sleeve put around the hose up to the rail hiding the bare metal. The sleeve is simple but I was looking more for info on the gasket type finish.

[benzy2]

Wow wow wow. I got my tank filled today and after drilling that new hole I just cant imagine this running any better. It seriously was shooting as fast as I can shoot my promaster. Im so happy.

[the electrician]

when I drilled and tapped the asa for the lpr, I lined up the asa in the vise using some vise jaws that have angles cut in them to hole round objects. they are aluminum. so they hold it straighter, and don't leave marks.. you can mount the rail to the asa and level it up with the drill bit, if you have room. I just ran the bit(a smaller bit) down right next to the slot edge on the top side of the asa to kinda "eyeball" if i had the asa rolled in the right direction to make the hole straight out the front of the ASA. then I take the bit back up, move the asa over using the compound-slide mill/drill table, and chuck up a center drill.
take the center drill down and just touch the point on the asa where you want to start the hole. a center drill won't "walk" on you like a drill bit will. especially drilling round objects.

then chuck up a 1/4" bit, and drill the hole. I usually use a few smaller sizes than the oe I need, stepping up to the size I need.

as far as depth and location, it's hard to remember, it's been many years since I've done one. seems like a drilled just above the center of the existing 1/8npt" hole one the side of the ASA.
here are the vise jaws: http://www.grizzly.com/products/h3400

here are the center drills:http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...ProductID=1230


here is a compound slide table: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PARTPG=INLMK3

mount it to your drill press and mount your drill press vise to that. makes life alot easier.

[BigEvil]

when I drilled and tapped the asa for the lpr, I lined up the asa in the vise using some vise jaws that have angles cut in them to hole round objects. they are aluminum. so they hold it straighter, and don't leave marks.. you can mount the rail to the asa and level it up with the drill bit, if you have room. I just ran the bit(a smaller bit) down right next to the slot edge on the top side of the asa to kinda "eyeball" if i had the asa rolled in the right direction to make the hole straight out the front of the ASA. then I take the bit back up, move the asa over using the compound-slide mill/drill table, and chuck up a center drill.
take the center drill down and just touch the point on the asa where you want to start the hole. a center drill won't "walk" on you like a drill bit will. especially drilling round objects.

then chuck up a 1/4" bit, and drill the hole. I usually use a few smaller sizes than the oe I need, stepping up to the size I need.

as far as depth and location, it's hard to remember, it's been many years since I've done one. seems like a drilled just above the center of the existing 1/8npt" hole one the side of the ASA.
here are the vise jaws: http://www.grizzly.com/products/h3400

here are the center drills:http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...ProductID=1230


here is a compound slide table: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PARTPG=INLMK3

mount it to your drill press and mount your drill press vise to that. makes life alot easier.

Thanks for those links E, I've been keeping an eye out for a decent compound slide. :-)

[the electrician]

well double check ebay for them, I bought mine for $35.

[Pneumagger]

I have a few more questions but none deal with the frame. When you drill and tap another hole in the front of the ASA what is done to line this up parallel to the barrel? Once you have it set correctly do you just lower the bit and go to it or is there more prep work? Im new to doing much of this and just dont know the entire procedure for drilling holes the correct way.

I have bought a 1/8NPT tap and the right drill bit for it(as to the directions from the tap). I plan on doing this myself and just wanted to know the correct way to do it. I also have read a little about tapping holes and it seems like you want to almost do a one step forward two steps back thing to keep from gumming up the tap threads. Also slow and steady seems to be the way to go. I was wondering what you guys do to start the threads straight into the hole? I need more reading on this and thought I would ask here.

Finally seems to be a question on the rail. I have seen a few pictures of finished milling on rails for pneumatic hosing. I know the drill press cant mill and shouldnt/wont be used that way. But could I mount the rail to the drill press standing up and just drill it with a regular bit? I dont want to use the dremel as that gets ugly. It doesnt look like there is a ton of material to be taken out and could seem possible. Again, sorry for the question but Im new to what can and cant be done on a drill press. Also is there any way to dress it up afterwards? I saw one job that looked like a metal gasket(sorry for the poor description) was put in at the front edge of the rail and the hose was ran through that and another looked as if it had a sleeve put around the hose up to the rail hiding the bare metal. The sleeve is simple but I was looking more for info on the gasket type finish.

on the gasket type finish...
instead of drilling a 1/8" hole for just the hose to go into, drill a 5/32 or 3/16. Then get an autococker tophat and epoxy it into the fce of the hole. It leaves a nice finished look while protecting the hose from the sharp edges of the cut aluminum.

Also, I once made an entire pneuframe and rail with a dremmel, so don't be scurd!

[benzy2]

on the gasket type finish...
instead of drilling a 1/8" hole for just the hose to go into, drill a 5/32 or 3/16. Then get an autococker tophat and epoxy it into the fce of the hole. It leaves a nice finished look while protecting the hose from the sharp edges of the cut aluminum.

Also, I once made an entire pneuframe and rail with a dremmel, so don't be scurd!

That would be what I was looking for. I knew it had to be some part that was fairly simple. I love that look too. I cant wait to try another now that I feel good about doing them.

[Shingo]

None of the stores in my area carry Autococker Top Hats... Checked three stores

Anyone out there can spare a couple? PM me please

Thanks

~Shingo~