I can't seem to get my pneumag to fire if i use the emag on/off , i wonder if it could have something to do with the buna o ring. I will retry it with the teflon one. When i do try to use the emag on/off i have to turn the LPR all the way up, so...
I've been a busy boy! This took me an afternoon!
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Originally posted by zyklon69I can't seem to get my pneumag to fire if i use the emag on/off , i wonder if it could have something to do with the buna o ring. I will retry it with the teflon one. When i do try to use the emag on/off i have to turn the LPR all the way up, so...
The Emag on/off uses a shorter pin IIRC. That could be part of your issue with setting the lpr too highComment
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Here you go Pheonix...
Do lots of research before you make a start as it can be qiute involved.
Zyklon...You do need to increase the input pressure when you use the emag on/off. How much heavier is the pull? You still need to use the black quad o ring. Better still, upload a video,with both the ULT and the E-Mag on/off firing.Comment
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Thanks for the compliment. There's a place in Aldershot next to Powerball and Belsales that does custom anodising at pretty good rates, they also have a quick turnaround time, plus it's only a half hour drive from my place. They did a really nice job of a friends Dye barrel matching it to his DM6, so i'm gonna get it done there in the new year.Comment
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On one I did I found the hole in the frame that your trigger rod sits in makes all the difference from a light weight pull to a heavy pull. If the hole is angled left or right you bind up a bit and if the hole is angled up or down you may have a bit of binding. I also had troubles when the hole was a bit larger diameter than my trigger rod. It would get very heavy if I didnt pull the trigger just the right direction. I redrilled the hole straighter, better centered and level and All of my trigger weight problems went away. Ever since then I make a real effort on how aligned the hole is drilled with the frame. I could take the MSV2 out of the frame and when it was aired up it had very little weight. I toss it in the gun and it was real heavy. Redrilled the holed and I was set. You say you use the stock hole. I dont know how they are drilled on those frames to start but if nothing else the sizing part may be relevant.Why doesnt anything work for me.Comment
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The pull is way too heavy if i increase the pressure of the lpr when i use the emag on/off , i just had surgery done, once im able to make it to the paintball store im gonna try the emag on/off with the original pin. How can i make it so that when the mpa rod hits the sear it will trip it with a very little tap? That's where i notice where the emag on/off fails.Comment
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Benzy...I'm using both the origanal sear outlets on both the frames, there's definatley a diiference between the 2 MSV-2's, but i need to do more testing to find out what the difference is.
Zyklon...As above, as soon as i find out why the 2 same parts have differing characteristics i'll let you know, i'm stumped myself.Comment
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If you want to experiment a little Zyklon, you could get another MSV-2 and mount a rectangular strip of metal so you could mount the MSV-2 lower down, physic's say's the longer the arm the easier the pull...It's something i may yet try, untill i've run some more tests im' not sure.Comment
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Iv'e just done a quick test after swapping all the parts from one frame to the other and found this happened, The intelliframe had the lighter trigger pull, so i swapped the parts over to the Chimera frame yesterday but was unable to test it. I've just tested it and this happened, the trigger pull in the Chimera frame is now as heavy as it was before with the second bunch of parts i had installed in it. After looking closely at the two frame, i've found the the MSV-2 is mounted about 3mm lower than the MSV-2 in the Chimera frame, right now though i'm unable to test further as i have to go out for dinner
But it look as if the mount height makes a difference to the pull, also i've found the angle of the MSV-2 makes a huge difference, too straight and the rod scrapes hard against the upper section of the trigger as it's dragged upwards if you like not at all smoothly, so i've found that it works best (for me at least) if it is angled slightly upwards to give a smoother pull. The only other thing i haven't done is to swap the MPA-3's over, whether the return spring of the MPA-3 makes a difference to the pull i won't know untill tomorrow. I''ll run some more tests tomorrow and post my findings once i've worked it out.
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Eureka-ka-ka-ka! I think i've got it! As i said earlier, i thought there might be a difference in trigger pull weight with the differing positions of the MSV-2 mounted in the 2 frames i made. It turns out this is correct. I drilled the sear rod hole around 3-4 mm further down toward the base of the Intelliframe, and on the Chimera frame, i only drilled the sear rod exit hole about 2-3mm not thinking it would make any real diffference. It made all the difference, To make the pull as light as possible, you need to drill/mill the enitre section where the sear rod passes through. What this does is this. The MSV-2 can then be mounted about as horizontaly as it can. When the trigger is pulled, the sear rod will then be pushed with virtually no scraping up the back of the trigger. There should be very little movement from the arm of the MSV-2 when the trigger is pulled. To get the optimal light pull takes a fair bit of fiddling to get it aligned, so your gonna need a fair bit of air. If the MSV-2 is mounted too high it is pushed up the curved section of the trigger shoe and causes resistance in the pull, so the MSV-2 must be sited lower down to avoid this. What i need to do now, and i think Zyklon may also need to this, is to drill out some of the metal section where the sear rod passes through then set the trigger up accordingly.
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Im glad you got it sorted bud,what colour are you getting it done in?Originally posted by longiEureka-ka-ka-ka! I think i've got it! As i said earlier, i thought there might be a difference in trigger pull weight with the differing positions of the MSV-2 mounted in the 2 frames i made. It turns out this is correct. I drilled the sear rod hole around 3-4 mm further down toward the base of the Intelliframe, and on the Chimera frame, i only drilled the sear rod exit hole about 2-3mm not thinking it would make any real diffference. It made all the difference, To make the pull as light as possible, you need to drill/mill the enitre section where the sear rod passes through. What this does is this. The MSV-2 can then be mounted about as horizontaly as it can. When the trigger is pulled, the sear rod will then be pushed with virtually no scraping up the back of the trigger. There should be very little movement from the arm of the MSV-2 when the trigger is pulled. To get the optimal light pull takes a fair bit of fiddling to get it aligned, so your gonna need a fair bit of air. If the MSV-2 is mounted too high it is pushed up the curved section of the trigger shoe and causes resistance in the pull, so the MSV-2 must be sited lower down to avoid this. What i need to do now, and i think Zyklon may also need to this, is to drill out some of the metal section where the sear rod passes through then set the trigger up accordingly.
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That will look sick as fook.im thinking about silver/blue fade on my classic mag and all blue on my RT.Originally posted by longiThinking about a DM6 black/red fade, but i'm open to suggestions!Comment



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