Custom Frame Conversion Help

[Chaos_Theory!]

Im looking for some help finding a reputable custom shop/customizer who can do some custom frame work for me. I need some race frame internals put in a different frame. I have a number of ideas and things to discuss about it as well. Most of the modifications consist of drilling and or tapping some holes to mount the internals. Some soldering may also be required. Id do it myself but id rather let someone who knows more so what their doing than me (and i dont have the proper tools). Below is a complete list of things id need done. If you have any questions at all please ask.

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I will be using a gutted Emag frame as the new frame (i didnt wanna give that away but it will help in the end to get this done if info is out there). I chose this frame because it has more room internally than the stock race frame, has matching screw holes, and will just look amazing when its done.

The board is held in the stock frame by one screw with a spacer and a groove in the frame. That hole and groove would need to be machined in the new frame and some space would need to be made for it to fit.

The micro switch is soldered on the board. Since the switch wouldnt line up right on the new frame i would need to relocate it elsewhere so i would need it removed directly from the board and instead have it connected by 2 wires so i can place it somewhere else.

Room for the battery would need to be made by removing some material on the inside of the new frame.

The solonoid is held in the frame by a set screw (the new frame would need to be drilled and tapped for this). The new frame will also need to be widend a hair so the solonoid can sit in the top portion of the frame like it does in the stock one. There is enough material and room to do this. Somethign iwll also need to be put behind the noid so the pin doesnt slide out.

The sear actuator and sear which would just need to be mounted in the frame and are held in by pins (the holes would need to be drilled in the new frame). Some exra means to keep them in place may need to be taken into consideration as the emag frame was not built to have them mounted in it (im not saying it cant be done, because im sure it can).

Lastly a spot for the membrane pad and the programing/power port would need to be machined on the spine of the frame just like the stock frame.

I will take care of where to mount the switch and how it will be activated.

The hardest part about all of this is mounting the solonoid, sear actuator, and sear in the correct spot. If they arent in the right spot the frame will not work when a body is put on it. You can use the stock frame as a guidline since the frames screw holes are the same distance apart.

If anyone feels up to it or knows someone who is please lmk.

[p8ntbal4me]

Im looking for some help finding a reputable custom shop/customizer who can do some custom frame work for me. I need some race frame internals put in a different frame. Id do it myself but id rather let someone who knows more so what their doing than me (and i dont have the proper tools). Thanks

Wow! If you get an answer to this let me know.

I have a race gun frame (no freekick mod) from Professional Paintball I would love to see modded into something useful.

[Chaos_Theory!]

Ill be sure to do that. If all goes well ill have one pretty sweet frame.

[Pneumagger]

If it can be done on a small manual mill and I'd love to give it a shot, solderings a breeze, and tapping's easy too. I must admit though, never worked on a cocker so I'd need som detailed instructions.

[p8ntbal4me]

If it can be done on a small manual mill and I'd love to give it a shot, solderings a breeze, and tapping's easy too. I must admit though, never worked on a cocker so I'd need som detailed instructions.

Pneu;

PM me your address and I'll send the frame and stuff to you.

The battery cable is broke (takes a intelli-feed cable end *Molex 1.25mm*)

I got it for free from Professional Paintball (FF) so its not skin off my back.

If you jack it up Im not going to loose sleep over it.

[Chaos_Theory!]

pneu - I updated my original post with all the info i could think of. If more is needed just ask. I will work on getting any and all pictures needed.

p8nt - This may be more extensive than what you were thinking it was. Theres no reaosn to send your frame to pneu if you dont have anything in particular you want done. Im assuming you just want the cable fixed though. You could prob fix it yourself with some parts at radioshack or a similar store.

[p8ntbal4me]

pneu - I updated my original post with all the info i could think of. If more is needed just ask. I will work on getting any and all pictures needed.

p8nt - This may be more extensive than what you were thinking it was. Theres no reaosn to send your frame to pneu if you dont have anything in particular you want done. Im assuming you just want the cable fixed though. You could prob fix it yourself with some parts at radioshack or a similar store.

Nah,


He has a tabletop CNC and some other tools I dont have. I was going to put the thing on the Micrococker but after Race lost all its steam, Pro Paintball went out, and all,.. I just let it collect dust.

I was just saying that if you were gonna send your frame to him,.. and YOU wanted him to practice on some internals that are to spec with your race gun frame internals, he can have mine.

That way he can cut, jam, and to whatever it takes to get it to work on mine with no guilt. Then install with yours. If he doesnt break my internals, well,.. he has a free set of race stuff to tinker with.

I was gonna sell it but its really a waste of my time. Thats all I wanted to sen dit for. A test baby!!

[p8ntbal4me]

Are you going to use the race noid to trip the sear?

If so in the horozontal or vertical possition?

I tried something like this with a Racegun sear so I'll post what I have or PM it to you if you want the info.

Nathan told me once that the noid from race could put the sear but it depended on all the pre-travel the race gun needed that would have to be inherited to the emag frame.

If you own a race Im sure you know what I mean with the free kick and infinity mod.

Im soldering some new noids up right now. Ill check back here at some point. Post or PM me and Ill give you the link to all the files I have on it.

I also have the more beefy version of the racegun noid if you need that too!

[Lenny]

PB, is it silver? If so, I may be looking to pick one up for my sexy new 'Cocker.

[p8ntbal4me]

PB, is it silver? If so, I may be looking to pick one up for my sexy new 'Cocker.

Yep,... its the old Professional Paintball "dome" frame (the one with the pin behind the trigger to the switch)

Got it off Buddy Bower when he was with Free Flow (now hes with Tippmann Effect)

Its got the Lockout Team setting in it that were "awesome" at that point in time.

I already offered it to Pneu so its for him first. If he does not want it,.. you can have first dibs to it.

[Chaos_Theory!]

Yeah i know what ya mean. I plan on using the race noid and mounting it horizontally like it is now. That reminds me ill need something behind the noid so the pin stays in place. lol

You can post any info up here if you want.

If i do send it to him itd be great if you sent your internals for testing. Im running a leaf board, although i doubt itll make a huge difference.

[p8ntbal4me]

Yeah i know what ya mean. I plan on using the race noid and mounting it horizontally like it is now. That reminds me ill need something behind the noid so the pin stays in place. lol

You can post any info up here if you want.

If i do send it to him itd be great if you sent your internals for testing. Im running a leaf board, although i doubt itll make a huge difference.

Actually you dont.

The emag noid pulls down so in respect to the Race noid as is you wouldnt.

Only problem with that idea now,.. is that the race is a push, the emag is a pull type.

I took a break from the soldering so I'll stick around and see what I got.

The replacement noid for the race as is:

Make: MAGNESTIC SENSOR SYSTEMS
Model: S-10-50-23H

I have that one sitting here and I believe that was the slightly stronger one (Im checking)
It only makes a difference of 3bps when set to factory settings from FF.

More to come!

[Chaos_Theory!]

I know what ya mean but the Emag noid isnt even a concern for me since ill be using Race internals only and its not gonna be used on a mag. Im thinking theres some miscommunication. lol

[p8ntbal4me]

I know what ya mean but the Emag noid isnt even a concern for me since ill be using Race internals only and its not gonna be used on a mag. Im thinking theres some miscommunication. lol

Ah okay.

Im with you now.

1 of the ideas I was pondering (but I have yet to find the information on it) is to use the noid from the mQ valve that PBX ran in them.

It ran off the E-frames as we know them so you would have a drop in unit to go with.

From traffic between myself and Kerry Johnson I was told that the noid was approx 13mm when removed from the housing that slides down into the cocker to make up the portion against the poppet. (that means it would drop into the top of the AGD Intelli-frame if you used that one)

I dont own an mQ other wise I would have the correct answer for you, but thats what I was told. If you could find that noid, you would be set for a drop in and plug in unit.

[Chaos_Theory!]

Thats actually not a bad idea. Im using a gutted Emag frame and im not sure how it compares to an intelli (havnt owned one of those in years).

Kerry is a great guy, he did my custom mQ valved titanium internal Excal. Im not about ready to take it apart and try that though. lol