Custom Frame Conversion Help

[p8ntbal4me]

Thats actually not a bad idea. Im using a gutted Emag frame and im not sure how it compares to an intelli (havnt owned one of those in years).

Kerry is a great guy, he did my custom mQ valved titanium internal Excal. Im not about ready to take it apart and try that though. lol

All my E-Mag frames are smaller in width internally over the Intelli so I think thats a no go.

A little machining maybe and it will work for you.

Kerry was pretty helpful. He was a bit puzzled when I started asking about the mQ and maybe switching the noid for a ram driven noid. After a few messages back and forth he gave me the patents that already covered my ideas and what I could to as far as a work around.

Nice guy.

I was trying to just get my hands on a broken one or part it up some how. Just to play with it and test kinda what you were doing.

Its cool your doing this. I think I have some other specs on parts I tried. If you go to buy noids and stuff,.. check with me before hand. I bought 5 I think that just didnt work out.

[p8ntbal4me]

I was looking over my notes I had on this idea and I found something if you want to try you can. Its all theory on the AGD side of the house but since you know the way the Race frame works you will know what Im getting at.

You know the general shape of the sear on a mag?
In my mind, the force applied to the sear againt the bolt is the major reason why on a sear tripping setup we need so much force on the E-Mag.

With that in mind, look at the hammer and lug on a cocker.
It basically does the same thing and requires a bunch of force to let the hammer go.

Race designed their noid not to act directly to the hammer lug force, but the sear that was dependet to the lug.

In doing so, they allowed the useof a much smaller solenoid with less force needed to be applied to the sear to release the hammer. That small roller bearing and "U" shaped groove on the sear with what I want to see hold the bolt on the mag back.

The sear on the mag actaully pulls the bolt back slightly and down untill the bolt clears. All that is avertical force. My thought was to make the bolt release a horizontal force. Where the solenoid to sear relation was the same as the Racegun but applied to the bolt on the mag.

The on/off pin coould use a simple push noid to work it or an actual drop in replacement for the on/off all together. <---- someone was working on a e-poppet drop in replcement for the on/off I think somewhere on here. BigEvil or Pneumagger come to mind for some reason.

I know that sounds like alot, but you can see what Im saying in a simple way.

I wanted to try it,.. but I got fustrated with my Micrococker and pushed it aside.

Ill see if I can draw up something again to send you. If the right person could machine it out,.. it would lower the solenoid voltage ranges needed by alot!

[Pneumagger]

Chaos -

let me get this straight... your looking to use race frame internals in emag lowers - but not on a mag. So a cocker I assume?

As long as there is sufficient material where needed, I don't see a reason why pins couldn't be added for sears and noids to mount to. And for the trigger switch, an emag doesn't really have any place for trigger switches because it was designed for the hall sensor. I'm thinking your best bet would be to find a supply a voltage for the sensor on the board somewhere and then use the hall output as the trigger for the board. I'm still a bit confused as to what you want though, as I'm a cocker noob. Lenny and Josh are the sheridan brains around here.

P8nt-

I only have a tabletop manual mill - not cnc. I'm kinda in the dark as to what you need done on the frame. I have no use for it personally, so you might as well send it to Lenny. He only lives like 4 blocks away from me anyways

[Lenny]

I'm a Sheridan expert? When did this happen?

I know my stuff when it comes to 'cockers (and very well, might I add), but I know very little about eCockers (as in the guts of the frames and the noids and whatnot).

P8nt,

I would indeed like that race frame if you still want to get rid of it. PM a price.

[p8ntbal4me]

I'm a Sheridan expert? When did this happen?

I know my stuff when it comes to 'cockers (and very well, might I add), but I know very little about eCockers (as in the guts of the frames and the noids and whatnot).

P8nt,

I would indeed like that race frame if you still want to get rid of it. PM a price.

Lenny;

The frame works except the battery connector was broken so I gave it to my cat (she likes wires!)

You would either need to get a 9volt snap from radio shack and the molex connector off the E-Mag to warp feed cable off the AGD store.

Either that or you may buy a rechargable battery for it off race, sometimes their store it up, sometimes it is not.

Im letting you know up front that this thing does not have the external freekick mod, it has the internal one. Its a pain to adjust, just letting you know.

Ill PM you with a price shipped, I have a picture of it if you wanna see what your getting.

~ P8nt