AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
Does anyone have the dimensions of that mac noid? Would it fit in a milled rt rail? Or does anyone know of a 4way that would fit inside an rt rail- laying flat inside with 90 degre barbs?
Just a project thought yous all might have an idea?
K
I was thinking of this,.. so I just tried to size mine up and look at an R/T Pro rail.
The area where the fore grip goes is rather thin, and leaves almost NO meat to hold anything in place. If you wanted to persue it,.. you had better be good at milling.
The area where the sear holds the bolt in place, and the upper sight rail is held with 6 screws allows for more milling and a simple placement of 90 degree barbs as well. This would be my first choice over any other area.
Problem here would be the bolt and sear. You would need to again, do some homework into where the sear lines up and touches the bolt catch. Side clearance looks doable. But you need to be sure when doing the milling.
Unless the Mac you are looking at is thinner than mine it will not fit into the rail. It doesn't allow the body and rail to come together. The noid will fit with the 90 barbs but it is just too thick. I tried
Unless the Mac you are looking at is thinner than mine it will not fit into the rail. It doesn't allow the body and rail to come together. The noid will fit with the 90 barbs but it is just too thick. I tried
I checked my MAC against the R/T Pro and R/T Classic rails.
The noid is thinner than the rail so you would have a space to work with.
The rails measure a hair over 3/8 thick. The noid is a hair over 1/4,.. so it would fit if you were carefull with a mill.
Again,.. thats with those 2 rails,... I have not looked at anything else yet.
I checked my MAC against the R/T Pro and R/T Classic rails.
The noid is thinner than the rail so you would have a space to work with.
The rails measure a hair over 3/8 thick. The noid is a hair over 1/4,.. so it would fit if you were carefull with a mill.
Again,.. thats with those 2 rails,... I have not looked at anything else yet.
I see, your rail must be milled a little differently than mine than as I would have had to mill a good 1/8th of an inch from either my body or rail, or both to get the noid to sit in there properly. Good luck with it though.
I'd like to get in on your order for a 3-way noid Pneumagger. Let me know about payment details.
I've had a "family emergency" recently and things have been pretty hectic around here, so I'm not going to have much time to place an order anytime soon.
I used this Solenoid, and I am very happy with it. I probably only have 2 cases through it, but it is very small, and had no problems with the plastic barbs.
My hair brain idea was to mount the 4way in the rail then with a mq valve vertical up through the body. No mag valve.
Run the bolt on a powertubeesk shaft with a small ram to connect to the bolt stationed behind the mq valve.
Thus mq operating directly behind the bolt. And bolt completely independent of the propellant.
Ideally the bolt/mq and low pressure reg could slide in from the back.
I just need an MQ-- thay are selling for twice their original amount, a karta or xmag body, and a mac noid. I am like almost there.
K
Originally posted by p8ntbal4me
I was thinking of this,.. so I just tried to size mine up and look at an R/T Pro rail.
The area where the fore grip goes is rather thin, and leaves almost NO meat to hold anything in place. If you wanted to persue it,.. you had better be good at milling.
The area where the sear holds the bolt in place, and the upper sight rail is held with 6 screws allows for more milling and a simple placement of 90 degree barbs as well. This would be my first choice over any other area.
Problem here would be the bolt and sear. You would need to again, do some homework into where the sear lines up and touches the bolt catch. Side clearance looks doable. But you need to be sure when doing the milling.
Hope that helps some.
It is better that people think your a dumb@$$ then for you to open your mouth and confirm it.
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