Automag level 10 I need your input!

[flying Dutchman]

I don't see what's the big concern about short stroking. The level 10 will prevent a break either way, as far as I know. You can say "full trigger pulls" in the briefing if you want to, that's not even 2 to 3 minutes, that's 2 seconds.

I think spider has a great idea about pre-wearing the ring.

Now this is good, if they short stroke the l-10 will it break paint of just skip the round.

I'm not worring about the them chuckling over the phrase short stroke. But these folks don't listen well. Some show up with an attitude that they know it all others just want to get on the field and wish the old guy would just shut up so they can play. They are doing well if they get their goggs pointing the right way.

As a rental, will the kids be able to bugger it up?

Right now a common is to watch them turn the barrel as they remove the barrel plug. You know what that means when it's time to feed paint. I just gave up after telling them over and over and went to barrel bags! But that's the sort of thing I have to deal with daily!

[ta2maki]

What happens when you short stroke a mag is that you don't allow the dump chamber to fully pressurize. There isn't enough air to push the ball out the barrel, so it ends up sitting inside the end of the barrel. When the next shot is made, the second ball is slammed into the first, causing a mess. This is why a level 10(which is an anti-chop bolt)will do nothing to stop short stroke paint breaks.

Now when you short stroke an autococker, you prevent the backblock from going all the way back. Best case, this leaves the hammer uncocked and a second pull of the trigger loads a second ball and you get a double shot. Worst case, you pinch a ball in the breech with the bolt and make a mess. Anti-chop solutions would work well in this situation.

Also in order to keep from short stroking a mag, you need to fully release the trigger each time. Full trigger pulls are for autocockers.

[drg]

When I shortstroke my level 10 the ball usually makes it out, but it just doesn't go very far. I honestly think you will have no more trouble with breaks than any other type of rental marker, and definitely less than your level 7s.

[flying Dutchman]

What happens when you short stroke a mag is that you don't allow the dump chamber to fully pressurize. There isn't enough air to push the ball out the barrel, so it ends up sitting inside the end of the barrel. When the next shot is made, the second ball is slammed into the first, causing a mess. This is why a level 10(which is an anti-chop bolt)will do nothing to stop short stroke paint breaks.

Now when you short stroke an autococker, you prevent the backblock from going all the way back. Best case, this leaves the hammer uncocked and a second pull of the trigger loads a second ball and you get a double shot. Worst case, you pinch a ball in the breech with the bolt and make a mess. Anti-chop solutions would work well in this situation.

Also in order to keep from short stroking a mag, you need to fully release the trigger each time. Full trigger pulls are for autocockers.

That's what I was curious about, I know the short stroke caused breaks in the barrel. I didn't see how the L10 front bolt would prevent that. Now if I move from my 14 inch Dye barrel to a 10 inch I would think there might be a better chance of the ball clearing the barrel even on the short stroke. ????

[Spider-TW]

That's what I was curious about, I know the short stroke caused breaks in the barrel. I didn't see how the L10 front bolt would prevent that. Now if I move from my 14 inch Dye barrel to a 10 inch I would think there might be a better chance of the ball clearing the barrel even on the short stroke. ????

I doubt you would notice the few balls that make it past 10 inches but wouldn't have made it past 14 inches.

For most of us here, an RT on/off in a classic valve will help with short stroking, just because the trigger is lighter. I'm not sure it would help someone that wasn't used to shooting a mag in the first place.

Trigger stops help a little by making the whole stroke shorter. You would have to loctite them in and sometimes you may have to push the trigger rod back in a little further when you disassemble the valve. That would be a lot of triggers to mess with though.

Either that or the disposable rubber bumpers behind the trigger would be an easy experiment.

As long as the kids are not allowed to take the marker apart, they shouldn't be able to do any harm to the level 10 bolt. The most common failure besides tuning is someone takes a wrench to the power tube tip to tighten it and the brass breaks. You might keep a few tips on hand for your own sake with 50 markers.

I needed a level 10 because I move a lot (bouncing the ball stack) and shoot faster than a gravity feed hopper going through a power feed - feed neck. Not that fast, just consistent. Most new kids I watch tend to "aim" and shoot, then move a little. What I'm trying to figure out; "is a level 10 chuff any (shorter, better, softer) than a level 7 chuff?". I don't think so. However, any break avoided in a rental is going to be worth something.

There are those individuals that can break anything, and as my grandfather used to say, "that boy could break an anvil".

[drg]

Call me crazy but I think a heavier trigger leads to less short stroking.