I don't understand mags

[Ninjeff]

Think about mags like this:
You can take any valve and put it on any mag. (with one exception, but dont worry about that).

What you are after is a ULE bodied mag. Those are the ones that "look great". But all you are swapping is the body. ULE is "ultra light engineering". Basically parts made of aluminum instead of stainless steel.

What im betting is that you dont like the "flat grey" look of the blasted look of the old mag bodies. What you may not have thought of is polishing one. get a nice mirror finish and BLING! instant awesome.

Anyway, lets take my mag for example: **note, its changed since the picture, but you'll get an idea**



Thats an X-Valve (the newest valve AGD made, its just a lighter version of an RT valve)
A Red ULE Body from AGD. A Black TacOne ULE rail (what joins the frame and body together) also from AGD, a CP foregrip (self explanatory), and an RPG Chimera Frame (from Rogue Sports, a seller/dealer/manufacturer here on AO)

All these parts can be had here on AO. There are SOOOOO many combonations that sometimes its hard to wrap your head around, but as a rule of thumb, pretty much EVERY part can be swapped out for some other AGD part.

here are the various parts: **Same mag as before, just pulled apart before i sent it off to get pneumagged/ anno'd, so please ignore the colors ****


You have the Green ULE body up top, the X-Valve and LVL 10 bolt out back, on top of a custom milled rail , on top of a Chimera Frame. All you have to do to put the ENTIRE mag back together is screw in two screws, one in the frame (to hold it to the rail/body) and one in the back of the rail (to hold the valve in)

Thats it. Takes me about 1-2 minutes (provided i can find the ONE allen wrench i need) to take apart the mag, and about 2 minutes to put it back together. Add a minute for a quick wipe down, and i can disassemble my mag clean it, and then re-assemble it in the time it takes someone to change their batteries in a Velocity.

nd the whole gun can be put together with a classic valve also. As a matter of fact, if you wanted to, you could swap two valves out of a mag while ON the field. Takes about 30 seconds.
God bless Mags and thier awesome simplicity.

[Beemer]

This Thread is Epic.

[AirAssault]

AGD and mags are dead, didn't you know that?

[Spencer]

Ok, this thread is helping me alot...

So do you guys find all the parts you need in the used section? I mean I understand I need a valve, a body a trigger frame, asa, front grip or gas through...

Also do some of these valves no work with c02? I will most likely be using air but just incase, is c02 ok?

I think i want a lvl 10 bolt too..

[michbich]

You can't use CO2 with reactive valves (X, RT, Emag....). You can only use CO2 with classic valves (automag, minimag and micromag valves).

[SteelSoul]

Just get this, it has everything you want already

http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=228206

[vmaxnick]

Mags to me

Basically, to me a mag is like a Harley, there are mags and then there are the others!
Nuff said!

[jade_monkey07]

Just get this, it has everything you want already

http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=228206

steel is right, that gun is everything youd want and 400$ is the average price for what is being sold. i had about 9 mags come through me, for friends or other AO'ers. some a little cheaper, and some more expensive. if i was in the market for one i would be picking that one up.

The seller is a respectable guy too

[Spider-TW]

Just the FAQ.

Section 13 is valves.

You can buy all new from Airgun Designs and others, or part one together if you pay attention to which parts you want. Be aware that the 'black sheep' of the family is the 'classic RT' which has a special rail and valve body, easily identified by the air supply line going into the rail instead of the valve. The classic RT is a niche in a niche. Some people like them a lot and there are things you can do with the gas ports, but off the shelf they have some (not complete) incompatibilities with the other mags in bodies, rails, and valve.

The older mags have a lot of stainless steel on them. They can be heavy, but they are machined and designed very well and they will hurt you if you fall on them.

You do see a lot of them at scenarios. There you don't really need (or are usually allowed) more than 15 bps. You also want consistency for a couple days and a few (or several) cases of paint straight through. Paint that you don't get much selection on, also. You don't often run into soft bunkers. Usually it's trees, logs, cinder block walls, rocks, mud, dead animals

The RT Pro ULE/ULT is light and fast enough for speedball, but it usually takes a old school player to pay that much for a marker that wouldn't go much over 18 bps without using the reactive trigger or electronics. You have to accept that it shoots fast enough and the efficiency is usually good enough to shoot about as much paint as you are willing to carry on the field. Beyond that, you'll have to start the mods for higher rates. The newer players usually don't have enough confidence in the mag and themselves to go that route.

[SkinnyHare]

Anyways,, I think I realized I hate mini mags and classic mags..

I'm going to hurt you



my mini is teh secksay

[Spider-TW]

And can you make a mag look like this

http://www.rawbutter.com/images/paintball/p-mag5.JPG

If it currently looks like this
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/e...erIX/Mag_1.jpg

I was thinking those two could share the field strip screw and the sear, but no. A new sear comes with the x valve and the field strip screw from some of the old classics could be a little too long for the x valve.

You would never plan that much of a conversion. It could happen though. I have one that is halfway in between that started out more than 15 years ago.

That mag of rawbutter's is a pneumag as well, so they're pretty far apart. There's a can o' worms.

[Spencer]

agian thanks for all the help guys.. And exactly why can't you run c02 with thoes other markers?

Also, just came to me... How do you adjust velocity with a mag? And do you have to have an adjustable hpa tank for a mag?

[Spencer]

Also I like the looks of this one.. http://automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=229339

Can someone tell me about it? I like the looks of it, what kind of frame is that? And this is considered what type of mag? It uses a classic valve, which I thought it was impossible for me to like a mag with a classic valve..

[Spencer]

And why is warp feed so popular with mags?

[Ruler_Mark]

adjustable HPA tanks lead to 1200psi inputs which can let you RT alot easier. IT is not required.

To adust your velocity, goto a chrono, pull the trigger but do not release, adjust accordingly, the back part of the valve screw it in to increase out to decrease. Quickly pull and hold again. repeat