What is this?

[Watcher]

Anyone know what kind of 'cocker this is?



I know it has an e-blade, and the UL barrel, but other than that I have no idea.

I'm getting a PB Lightning 'cocker soon and I was just looking for E-frames on google when this marker came up and I likes what I see.

Thanks in advance.

[Abizdafuzz]

It looks to be an '04 Prostock with a E1 or Worr frame on it.

[Watcher]

I saw another one just like it in a photo but without the e-blade and it was half blocked... but the description only said '03 Autococker.

At any rate, is it a good one? Would it be worth digging one up?

[paint magnet]

I saw another one just like it in a photo but without the e-blade and it was half blocked... but the description only said '03 Autococker.

At any rate, is it a good one? Would it be worth digging one up?

It depends. If you have a basic knowledge of how 'cockers work and don't mind tinkering with them from time to time, then you should be able to pick it up pretty cheap.

On the flip side, if you don't know how to time it, you may not want a closed-bolt electro-mechanical gun with no paint sensor.

I would avoid the PB Lightning like the plague. The ones I've seen were absolute crap. They sold for $200 at a time when a bare-bones WGP cocker went for $400. Now that resale on real cockers is crap, there is no reason to buy the PB knockoff.

[Watcher]

Well, I already picked up the Lightning because I heard they are great beginners 'cockers (I've never owned or worked on one before).

I was also considering a Trilogy because they are cheap and easy to work on. I know they aren't great in the way of upgades but I'm really just getting a 'cocker to have a 'cocker.

Seeing the electro market though I'd rather have an E-mag or an E'cocker though, so that's why I want to look into this one... or one similar.

[paint magnet]

Well, since you've already got the Lightning, I would get familiar with it first. Spend some time with it, do some research, learn how it works and see if you like the design. Autocockers are not the most user-friendly guns for those not mechanically-inclined.

If you like it, then go ahead and buy an E-cocker. They are only going to go down further in price, and by waiting you'll save yourself money for sure, and possibly a headache.

[Watcher]

Ok, thanks for the advice.

btw, I tech markers at my local field for random people, even ones I don't know about, lol.

My technical understanding of marker operation is, at least fairly high, I just never used a 'cocker. I know how they work, just never used one... ever.

And worse comes to worst I can always make the lightning a pump...

[teufelhunden]

That actually looks like an 03 stock cocker. Body wise, at least. Looks like the stock ram, cocking rod, detent, feedneck, and bolt pin -- pretty sure everything else has been upgraded.

Actually it may not be the stock ram, I think they may have had a brass back but not sure.

Either way, cockers are easy to work on, they just need a bit more time than other guns. Though with the eblade it's easier.

[paint magnet]

Ok, thanks for the advice.

btw, I tech markers at my local field for random people, even ones I don't know about, lol.

My technical understanding of marker operation is, at least fairly high, I just never used a 'cocker. I know how they work, just never used one... ever.

And worse comes to worst I can always make the lightning a pump...

Oh. You should be fine then. If the Lightning is working, I'd leave it at that. If it's slipped timing or someone messed with it, I'd start off by:

Making sure the hammer lug doesn't move freely. You can either buy a special hammer with a tensioning screw (which will cost half the price of the gun) or use a thread-locking compound if it's moving. I'd set it to release 1/3 way through the pull. Set the 3 way to actuate on the last part of the trigger pull. Dial in your HPR so you're shooting around 300 and then fine-tune velocity with the IVG. Turn the LPR down while shooting the gun. When it stops fully cocking, turn it back up, 1/2 turn past where it is fully functional--this will give you the lowest possible cycling pressure.

I've found the hammer lug and actuating rod coupler set screws to cause 75% of problems with cockers. Nothing like getting your gun set up just right to have one of them slip and throw the whole system off. Other than that, make sure your pneumatic hoses are tight and have fun!

[Watcher]

I sure will!

Mostly I think I figured I'd use the 'cocker for budget-balling when I still don't want to play pump...
Or if it was e-framed I'd use it as a speedball marker...

Well, I'll keep my eyes open for other, "better" 'cockers but first things first, I gotta see how the Lightning goes.

[DeTrevni]

What you've posted there is a 2K3 WGP Prostock or Vert 'cocker. The same thing, and the names are interchangable. The frame on that is a Worr Frame, or an S/F. It is probably one of the worst e-frames available for 'cockers, barring the Trilogy's S/F. It's not very comfortable to shoot, thanks to the rediculously shaped trigger guard, the electronics are iffy at best, and performance is fairly sub-par.

If you really want an e-frame, look for the Worr Blades, not frames. These are the ones manufactured by Eclipse for WGP. They are very similar to the E-Blade (another excellent frame), but have a larger trigger guard and a built in rail. I like the rail, but some people don't.

As for the Lightning, I don't know who told you they were good beginner 'cockers, but this is not the case. Cheap does NOT equate to "good beginner." Psychoballistics' tollerances were crap, the parts were shoddy, and they were just not good. If your pneumatics aren't leaking when you air it up, you are indeed one of the luckier ones. A junky 'cocker is probably one of the best ways to turn new 'cocker owners off of an otherwise beautiful marker.

[Watcher]

I was eyeing the 2001 right feed 'cocker at my local shop, but the reg was all scretched up (looked like a pair of pliers was used to get it on), the bolt was crusty, the ASA sucked, threadlock was gooping out of the 3-way, and the frame was missing the safety. Asking $180 for it too.

Another shop has a shocktech 'cocker with a myth reg, a 2000 right feed with a pneu-cover, and an old prostock (I think) but after working there for a week and seeing how they work on their stuff (part out other guns to fix some, take the "repair" and "sale" guns to the field to play with, ghetto-fix burst disks on tanks, oil fill nipples, etc) I don't want to touch them so I won't even sk how much they want for 'em.

And all the other 'cockers I've seen go for big $$ or need work. I did hear that the lightnings are set up iffy from the factory but it should be a simple tweak compared to an overhaul. Plus the seller is also including a brand new on/off ASA and a new Orracle reg so if the marker itself sucks I can part it out at least and keep the reg, bolt (its delrin I believe, might be good), and ASA...

[paint magnet]

There should NEVER be threadlocking compound anywhere near the 3-way! I would not want to associate myself with a shop that oils fill nipples and patches burst discs; I'm not particularly fond of lawsuits.

A lot of the private label cockers were very nice, and are probably the best value. They tend to be more reliable and have better fit and finish since all the accessories are made by the same company, rather than pieced together--just make sure they're the original parts. Good deals on mech cockers come up from time to time here and on other forums, as well as eBay.

Right feed bodies typically go for much less than the vert feed ones, so sometimes you can pick up a RF cocker with some nice accessories for less than its VF counterpart.

[trevorjk]

Watcher where are you from?

[Spider-TW]

Idk about the lightnings, but the PB superbolt pneumatics were so off that I just made a pump arm and converted it without ever putting air on it first.

You could hold the three-way up with the timing rod in it and see light past the new orings. The ram was 3/8" too long, which would ram the hammer-lug back into the body, so it needed a bumper. The LPR is a schrader valve, which is on my 'list' of don'ts after watching two different schrader LPRs fail on timmys (one was new).

The grip is also too small under the guard for most male fingers. It made a decent pump though.