Intellifeed opinions

[Watcher]

So I decided to take the plunge and actually intellifeed my frame and warp.

It was a hassle (getting the wires to stick in the phone jack), and I didn't use solder because I just wanted to test it out before I made it permanent (because I wired it through the frame).

With just hook-up wire (a little too long though), electrical tape, the switch, and a right-angle phone jack it works considerably well.

But...

I figured I'd leave the vibration sensor jumper installed in case the switch ever failed in game.


So then I got to thinking if the intelli-switch is really doing anything if the vibration sensor is active.

I mean, is it advancing the timing on the warp enough to make a faster/more reliable cyclic rate or is it just a convinience and a novelty?

Well, it's too late to bring the components back so I guess I'll stick with it but I'm just looking for people's opinions.

Thanks.

[BigEvil]

I think if you leave 2 jumpers on you can run the warp in two modes. I accidentally had mine in both vibration and intellifeed mode using my Xmag. Im not sure if it would work like that for the mech switch though..

[MANN]

I would dare to guess that the viberation sensor would fail before the switch. just use the switch.

[dark blade]

best way to test to see if the intellifeed is actually doing anything is to pull the trigger without any air in it. If it advances then the intellifeed cable is working. If it does not then the vibration sensor is doing all the work when its fired.

Also.. you can run 2 jumpers and have 2 modes. I use this with my emag. When i have the emag on it works in intellifeed mode. When the battery plug is in and its off and im using pure mech, it works using the sensor

[Watcher]

best way to test to see if the intellifeed is actually doing anything is to pull the trigger without any air in it. If it advances then the intellifeed cable is working. If it does not then the vibration sensor is doing all the work when its fired.

With just hook-up wire (a little too long though), electrical tape, the switch, and a right-angle phone jack it works considerably well.

Yes, the switch works and when I tap the warp it cycles off the vibration, obviously it can run off both jumpers.


What I'm asking is:

Does the timing on the switch affect loading? By which I mean will the switch start the warp spin as it is firing as opposed to after via the vibration?

Just another thought, could I run a lower dwell time on the switch vs on the vibration? Or should I stick with the ol' no-less-than-1/4-turn-on-activation rule?

What is better/easier/faster/more efficient/more effective/more reliable to run, the switch or vibration?
And why?

I've used my warp for a while on just the vibration sensor and it works great, and in excitement I switched it but I am not seeing any really goundbreaking advantage other than being able to play with the warp without shooting the gun.


The warp has a backup if the switch fails? How?

[dark blade]

no idea how it has a backup... i am guessing he is talking about the manual advance button. i feel that you get a more consistant feedrate with the intelli because it loads for every shot instead of vibration, if you shoot constantly there will be constant vibration which would make it load infinitely until the vibration stops which would use more battery in my opinion than using the switch. the switch would make it so that you can use the absolute minimum amount of spins to load each one on the minimum dwell.

Thats why i use it at least.

[Watcher]

I feel that you get a more consistant feedrate with the intelli because it loads for every shot instead of vibration, if you shoot constantly there will be constant vibration which would make it load infinitely until the vibration stops which would use more battery in my opinion than using the switch. the switch would make it so that you can use the absolute minimum amount of spins to load each one on the minimum dwell.

Thats why i use it at least.

Ok, that makes sense, the warp would turn on and off quickly every shot as opposed to constant on through the string.

Then what would you set the dwell to? When you pull the trigger how much does the wheel spin.

I have a 1 jumper decrease in dwell right now and the wheel spins about 1/3 of a turn give or take. A 1 more jumper decrease puts it below a 1/4 turn so that was too little.
What am I shooting for, one ball feed?


Edit: I put all the jumpers in to reduce the dwell all the way. Feeds reliably off the switch but I wouldn't trust it off the vibration.

I also discovered that the leftover paint from the last Fox big-game became extremely... brittle... all over my bed.

This is interesting... the paddle from my hopper pierced a ball and it bled in the hopper, then there was a little paint in the elbow, but not a drop in the warp, the warp hose, or in the gun.
And the shell was missing a piece so it was a big crack...

Note to self: Apache for fresh/good paint, AK for old/brittle paint.

[dark blade]

Ok, that makes sense, the warp would turn on and off quickly every shot as opposed to constant on through the string.

Then what would you set the dwell to? When you pull the trigger how much does the wheel spin.

I have a 1 jumper decrease in dwell right now and the wheel spins about 1/3 of a turn give or take. A 1 more jumper decrease puts it below a 1/4 turn so that was too little.
What am I shooting for, one ball feed?


Edit: I put all the jumpers in to reduce the dwell all the way. Feeds reliably off the switch but I wouldn't trust it off the vibration.

I also discovered that the leftover paint from the last Fox big-game became extremely... brittle... all over my bed.

This is interesting... the paddle from my hopper pierced a ball and it bled in the hopper, then there was a little paint in the elbow, but not a drop in the warp, the warp hose, or in the gun.
And the shell was missing a piece so it was a big crack...

Note to self: Apache for fresh/good paint, AK for old/brittle paint.

i would do 2 jumpers, but thats just what i have on mine. its preference, but i agree and wouldnt trust warp on anymore than 3 jumpers. i wouldnt even trust it on 3

[Watcher]

i would do 2 jumpers, but thats just what i have on mine. its preference, but i agree and wouldnt trust warp on anymore than 3 jumpers. i wouldnt even trust it on 3

Well, every warp is different. I remember I had an old purple warp I used to run 2 jumpers on, when it broke I got my current and this one used 1 jumper .

I might dumb it down to 3, the full 4 works good but I might want to be extra sure.


Why wouldn't you trust it on so many jumpers?

[dark blade]

i just dont think it would spin enough to reliably load. you said yourself that it doesnt constantly spin on rapid fire, now take away some of the distance it spins and now you just end up getting even more pauses in the load cycle.

[luke]

I stand corrected.

How much back up do you need for a paintball game? Do you play for money?

Conceder this, the switch activates the Warp before the marker fires and the vibration mode activates it after the marker fires. Not a lot to think about there.

[luke]

i just dont think it would spin enough to reliably load. you said yourself that it doesnt constantly spin on rapid fire, now take away some of the distance it spins and now you just end up getting even more pauses in the load cycle.

I think you are over thinking it, have you used it in a game yet? If not you should.

[Watcher]

i just dont think it would spin enough to reliably load. you said yourself that it doesnt constantly spin on rapid fire, now take away some of the distance it spins and now you just end up getting even more pauses in the load cycle.

Well, it seems like it would constantly spin (there are no visable pauses in a string) but I was mainly saying that as a correlation between the switch's nature and the vibration sensor.
The switch would be a series of quick on/offs while the vibration would be a long on followed by an off...

How much back up do you need for a paintball game? Do you play for money?

LOL, no I don't compete or anything, I just don't like my gear going down in a fight and I don't particularily trust electronics. The only gun with a board I use as of current is my E-Cocker... Agitation loaders can be used as ghetto gravity feeds, so that's all I use; no force fed stuff for me (besides the warp).

Right now I'm still running powerfeed so I even keep a 45* elbow in my pocket if ever the warp would fail for any reason; that way I could just re-position the hopper.

I think you are over thinking it, have you used it in a game yet? If not you should.

Unfortunately weather here doesn't allow me many options to play, otherwise I'd be out every weekend. I can get some air and dry-test, but if I went in my yard and shot some paint it would freeze to my target and I'd have to look at the mess until the spring thaw
Best I could do is turn the barrel away from the powerfeed, pod up, and just dump the paint out onto the floor as I dry-fire the marker...

[luke]

You will be fine with either mode. If it quits in the middle of a game just use the little white button to feed the marker.

[JaKaL]

solder isn't really permanent y'know. And it'll be much more reliable.