Xmod for hyperframes and many other markers?!?

[Dend78]

I got a nice promaster that would be freakin stellar with Xmod on it

one thing i got to thinking though how would hyper mode work

i mean the mechanics of it dont seem right to me

[Chris Nearchos]

ill call paul and link him

thanks for giving him a heads up for me.

I will start a thread at TOG with a link to this post.

do that, spread the word on the project.

is there any reason to not use a utb board in these generic markers?

After dealing with the UTB on me and P8nts new Emag board, i have come to the conclusion that that board is meant for a last effort if all possible. the UTB is a really nice boardand size, but it does take some getting use to and a "few" other things. But the Xmod programming is very simple for people to use and learn. plus it will give a chance for people to get more out of their programmers and maybe even start a few into writing new code to use on Electric markers.

lorneash will weigh in later this evening, but as im trying to understand, will you be using new boards in these markers, or simply adding a chip with new software to the board?

These will be brand new boards. NO modding of stock/aftermarket boards. I will be building these boards as i have with the new emag board....using military grade PCB's and high end universal componets (which most are military grade).

Let me know if you want to try the Fokus. I can send you just the board or the whole frame if you want (I'm not using using it on anything).

I would be more then willing to do the Fokus board. and yes, if you have a stock frame that is just sitting around that would be great. But i just dont want anyone ripping there good marker for these projects. only if be willing to send the items if they are broken/no good/ or non used spare parts.


PM if you are still wanting to send that my way.

i have stock DM5/4 board and a UL frame board i can send you to gunnea pig on

that would be great to do also. just see my comment above on any frames/boards being sent in. and if it fits the bill....then pm and lets see what we can do to make that board come to life.

What Atmel chip is it that you have "in stock"? I don't see a problem modifying xmod to work with any other marker the only thing that would take some work would be to convert the LCD screen code over to blinking light code, but that can't be too bad. I was looking into that at one time for another company... Racegun. I was gonna write software for them but the deal fell through I think do to financing on their part.

The atmel chip being used on the stock AGD boards. I can make a switch to a bigger chip if you want to go that route. but i think your programming is well done as is and really doesnt need any change....unless there is stuff you want to change. so just let me know your thoughts on that and i will let you know what i can do to make it happen.


and one thing i want to really stick with is the LCD screen.....no blinking LED. thats one thing that i truly love about the AGD board and xmod programming. anyone can read/understand what its doing and no memorization of blinking LEDs required. So anyone can use the board.....even the truly anti tech people. I know that is going to require new grips (GRIPS not frames!) to make happen for some guns. but that is the price thats going to be needed for this to happen. And i can either make plugs to fill any LED holes .....BUT i would rather convert it to being a power LED in its place instead of a programming LED.


as for what you require financially on this project.....just let me know. I think the best thing for both of us is to give you a certian $$ amount per board sold AND allow you to still be the only real supplier for the programmers. But let me know what you have in mind that would work for you if my idea doesn't. btw, their is a new programmer that will work perfectly and will not need anymore headachs with dealing from germany.



i dont know what all you have as far as crimppers. but i will be making a change in connection plugs and use on all my boards the "JST" style that P8ntbal4me uses for his UTB setups and for our Emag board. So if you dont have the crimpper for those (to make the programmer board to marker board harness), I highly suggest to use P8ntbal4me to make those.



Finally, i just want to say thank you very much for willing to work on this with me. i know how busy you are and that we didnt hit the right foot on the start awhile back. but lets forget about that and make some magic happen with your awsome programming.

I have a GZ Intimidator SOB board that I can send you.
Its the same size as a 2k2 board, so there might be some interest in them.

as long as its a spare or dead board i will be more then happy to undertake that board. Pm me if the board fits the bill of my requirment and lets see what we can do with it.

I got a nice promaster that would be freakin stellar with Xmod on it

one thing i got to thinking though how would hyper mode work

i mean the mechanics of it dont seem right to me

i would be more then willing to do a board for that marker as well. but as for the "hyper mode", i am not exactly sure how a promaster is set up so i have to ask. is there a special switch/setting on the marker for the hardware to work in a "hyper mode"? or are you talking about "hyper mode" from the Emag?













Lastly, i apologize for the long post. but i want to try and answer all the questions in one post. if there are any questions or concerns about what i am trying to do, please feel free to post up and i will answer back on it/them asap.



Thanks for all your help guys,
-Chris

[Chris Nearchos]

forgot

almost forgot, but one big thing i will be doing with all these boards i will be making is sitting the main chip into a "cradel" setup...NOT soldered to the board. This will allow any fried chip to be easily replaced very cheap and you wont have to send the board in for repairs or have to get a whole new board.


Also, as with my emag board....these boards will be set up to work with both a reflective eye or break beam eye setup. this way you can test both ways on your marker and do a setup the way you want. SO if you dont want to mill and put eye covers all over your body....you can get away with a hidden eye (if possible) or using just one eye cover!


-Chris

[BigEvil]

Chris,


When is the last time you slept?

[Ratt]

Question...take my Tribal board, for instance. There is no LCD/LED display on a stock frame. Will the new boards have a display? If so, and since the old stock board has no buttons, how do you plan on allowing the user to cycle thru modes, set the dwell, etc...? Just curious...

[Chris Nearchos]

Chris,


When is the last time you slept?

lol, that is the second (if not third time) you have asked me that. And as always, i will respond with, "what in the world is this thing you call sleep?". "I know of no such thing".


btw, while i got your attention. I dont have a donor yet for the hyperframe board. Would you like to donate the bad hyperframe board i still have of yours for the good cause?


-Chris

[Chris Nearchos]

Question...take my Tribal board, for instance. There is no LCD/LED display on a stock frame. Will the new boards have a display? If so, and since the old stock board has no buttons, how do you plan on allowing the user to cycle thru modes, set the dwell, etc...? Just curious...

for markers that already have buttons and switchs....i will as hard as possible make them continue their purpose. but might require a simple change of switch though.


but as for the markers with no current switches (like ones that change programming/setting via the trigger), i have this to say:

Well that is a good question and i have been putting a bit of thought into that. It will come down to each marker for the answer. But in general it will come down to the two following options. (which i will leave up to each buyer to choose)


1) plot two buttons on the main board and just simply drill two holes in the back of the frame (like the emag). This is something i can easliy do for anyone if you cant drill them on your own.

OR if you dont want to drill the frame

2) have two "floating" buttons that you can attach how ever you want to the grips. Cause i know there will be those people out there that dont want the frame changed at all and would be more willing to drill cheap grips to mount the buttons.


-Chris

[BigEvil]

lol, that is the second (if not third time) you have asked me that. And as always, i will respond with, "what in the world is this thing you call sleep?". "I know of no such thing".


btw, while i got your attention. I dont have a donor yet for the hyperframe board. Would you like to donate the bad hyperframe board i still have of yours for the good cause?


-Chris

Sure, knock yourself out.

[Chris Nearchos]

Sure, knock yourself out.

Alright cool. added you to the list.



List on first post has been updated to show what and by who has been donated is has been taken care of so far. so if you have something not on that list yet, please feel free to offer up.

-Chris

[fsrxc1]

How about a Viking board...i got a crappy ole pandora floating around Destructive Customs somewhere

[Chris Nearchos]

How about a Viking board...i got a crappy ole pandora floating around Destructive Customs somewhere

works for me since no one else has spoken of donating a viking board yet. Pm heading your way.


-Chris

[MANN]

vikings dont have LED screeens.... at least most of them.

[Chris Nearchos]

vikings dont have LED screeens.... at least most of them.

well, like i said earlier in this thread. I know some markers out there have no screen. they either use a LED or nothing at all. So most will (i think would be easiest) require a new set of grips that have a window. OR could just install a window in current grips (easy to do). OR use clear/see through grips.


so that isnt a problem. And i am deffintly making sure that the boards require no extra milling for anything to fit and work. maybe just the two programing buttons at max....but not the screen.


but to answer directly for the viking....i know it sits in a tray above the frame. So, if you take a look, you will see a "programming port" cover. This is where the Display will sit and show out. Easy as that. of course i will offer very nice plugs to fill the screw holes .....or may just make use of them by using that to put a clear cover over the screen.

-Chris

[MANN]

If you make a viking board that has a led screen. count me in. That is IMO the only way electronics should work. I hate counting blinking lights. I will try to find you a fried board.

[Chris Nearchos]

That is IMO the only way electronics should work. I hate counting blinking lights.

That is my thoughts exactly. which is one of the reasons for the change in brains on my boards.

-Chris