How fast can you get your e-mag?

[cockerpunk]

My pinokio will feed reballs consistently at 25bps, but it has the P-board upgrade on it also.

no, no you dont.

pinokio doesn't even feed paint at close to 25 BPS.

[fishmishin]

no, no you dont.

pinokio doesn't even feed paint at close to 25 BPS.

Okay, well then I guess I am going to have to give it a run this weekend, and provide some footage. I am assuming you have already tested one with the new board, and I am only going on what my buddy told me. Sooo it's off to the proving grounds this weekend. I'll post my results sometime next week.

[om3n]

Drop the dwell to 15.

Alright I'll try this, but do you suggest it to stop the chopping? When I do the standard lvl 10 check (which means taking the valve out of the gun with the bolt still on it, turning it upside down and giving it a good shake, and if it takes a fairly hard shake to dislodge the bolt, you know the lvl ten is tuned properly) it seems like it's tuned properly.

Do you think i should try re-tuning it? It also does feel like the bolt is a bit strong...

[Ando]

We used to lube them as the manufacturer states at our field. What ended up happening is the little bit of lube would be injected into the ball by the force of the air being used to propel it. We swelled a stack of balls up to about .80+ before we figured out what was going on, they were so tight that they would not shoot down alot of barrels. We've found swelling the track and not the balls is a better alternative.

Reballs run small as hell, .670 (give or take) so whatever swelling you got should have put it right on. Depends on the crap the field has I guess. There's some stuff we used that just rolled out past our detents and down our barrels. I had to adj my detents to stop it and in doing so my lvl 10 blew both detents out. Went and replaced them a few weeks later with nice CP ones and blew those bastards out at Top Gun. BE and Goose can attest to that one...I was so pissed. $70 worth of detents down the drain.

I personally have never come across balls that ballooned like your saying, .130 is a lot. Whatever the field has your stuck with I guess.

Alright I'll try this, but do you suggest it to stop the chopping? When I do the standard lvl 10 check (which means taking the valve out of the gun with the bolt still on it, turning it upside down and giving it a good shake, and if it takes a fairly hard shake to dislodge the bolt, you know the lvl ten is tuned properly) it seems like it's tuned properly.

Do you think i should try re-tuning it? It also does feel like the bolt is a bit strong...

Toss one of your longer springs in it. You might just have some brittle paint but what athomas said is spot on. Also, keep your DWELL at 15.

Edit: One last thing no one's talked about with reballs. When you're chronoing the marker. Just get it in the ball park. Your velocity is going to be all over the place. Reballs aren't consistent what so ever and your marker is going to shoot differently...You might be able to put 25 balls down range with normal paint but reballs are a different story. When you're out there, start off at 10 bps and work your way up till you hit your wall. Don't bother tuning the marker to reballs either, your just going to waste valuable play time and have to undo everything anyways.

[Drix]

Reballs run small as hell, .670 (give or take) so whatever swelling you got should have put it right on. Depends on the crap the field has I guess. There's some stuff we used that just rolled out past our detents and down our barrels. I had to adj my detents to stop it and in doing so my lvl 10 blew both detents out. Went and replaced them a few weeks later with nice CP ones and blew those bastards out at Top Gun. BE and Goose can attest to that one...I was so pissed. $70 worth of detents down the drain.

I personally have never come across balls that ballooned like your saying, .130 is a lot. Whatever the field has your stuck with I guess.

You are right, reballs and the like are about .670 when they come. They can swell because the lubricant collects on the ball and when the force of air hits it the lube actually gets pushed into the ball. The origonal balls that swelled were the Mighty balls and although they've been replaced by a fresh set thanks to the manufacturer who was intrigued to learn about the problem a fair amount of our origonal set still kick around, I can get some pictures if you like. Other manufacturers may have different results and quirks about them but as said before, I'd avoid lubing the balls themselves- of course, if it's not your field who cares.

[bojangles1983]

You talk about chopping a ball or 2 when firing at high rates of speed, but you are going to be using reballs... so you wont be chopping those. At the most you will just have to wait a quick second for the lvl 10 to lock back again.

[om3n]

You talk about chopping a ball or 2 when firing at high rates of speed, but you are going to be using reballs... so you wont be chopping those. At the most you will just have to wait a quick second for the lvl 10 to lock back again.

Well today I re-adjusted the level ten anyways... it definitely needed it. It now feels like it did about a year ago, much stiffer. I'm all out of air though, too bad I don't have a method to FILL MY 4500 PSI AIR TANKS AT HOME just yet.. shame. I guess I'll have to wait till tomorrow to go to my local proshop to get a fill so I can keep messing around with mah gun

Just a side question... do you guys think I should go with a large bore or small bore barrel? I know that reballs and the like are generally much smaller than normal paint (my ru-balls are like .670-ish) but do you think it would be better to just stick with a small bore barrel, or go with a larger one? I have a .687, .688, and .691 (don't have the funds for a full kit). I've never done extensive testing, but do re-balls behave much like paintballs when it comes to bore-sizing? Logic would suggest that I go with my smallest barrel, but does anyone have a suggestion that is otherwise?

[athomas]

Find the biggest reball you are going to be using and size for that one just like it was a paintball.

[Drix]

Go with your smallest bore- With the size of reballs you're going to be way overboring anyway, unless your having problems with velocity. If you can't seem to keep a good 220 and have the marker cycle correctly with the small bore trade up for a bigger one which will let you run your valve at a higher pressure to compensate for the air pressure thats going to seep past the ball.

[om3n]

new sub-topic:

So my brother is coming to play reball as well, and he wants to bring his BT-4. He has a rip-clip on it, and I believe the rip-clip works in a very similar way as the halo. Anyways, I believe I have read before that the stock rip-clip can be damaged by reballs (something about the beads), but I don't remember where I read that and I was wondering if you guys had any insight.

here is a picture of what the rip-clip looks like... What do you guys think?

[Ando]

new sub-topic:

So my brother is coming to play reball as well, and he wants to bring his BT-4. He has a rip-clip on it, and I believe the rip-clip works in a very similar way as the halo. Anyways, I believe I have read before that the stock rip-clip can be damaged by reballs (something about the beads), but I don't remember where I read that and I was wondering if you guys had any insight.

here is a picture of what the rip-clip looks like... What do you guys think?

Tell him to get a mag

Not sure on the rip clip. Never seen one used for reball.

[om3n]

Tell him to get a mag

Oh believe me, I do all the time.

I will show him that, once again, the guys on the AO forums are full of wisdom He definitely needs a mag... and he would do it justice too.

[om3n]

anyone have any insight on the rip-clip or the halo with re-balls?