just picked up my first cocker!! now what?

[nerobro]

i recently grabbed up a trilogy, and added a pump kit , any way to stop the roll-outs ?

Barrels that fit the paint. :-) Or.. as mentioned before, nail polish "wedgits"

[PissedGodzilla]

Pics coming tonight!!!

[Seth1784]

i'll third or whatever we're up to on the learn about timing... it's the best thing to learn on a cocker. barrel kit will help with roll out but depending how the board is set up it might act "semi" auto. i picked up a e1 bladed prostock and it's got traditional and semi modes. one will lodge the ball like a traditional cocker (think it's called classic plus or something) then the other will act like a semi auto marker more or less and you wont have roll outs in that mode.

board wise, only reason you could really want to swap boards is just for ramping and junk. the stock board if it's at all like mine should do semi just fine. the e2 (which you might have as well) does ramping and the like, if that's what you'd rather you can get those used on the pbn forum... think 80 ish was the last i saw. better then double that for a aftermarket.

a good quality derlin bolt is another must... if you want to go as fast as possible look for the lightest one you can get. believe that was a slik edge III from what i'm told.

i've been running a 99 cocker for yeaaaaaars, it's only failed me twice honestly. 3 way/ram blew then the other time was the stock hpr which was a known issue. i have a 3 way problem again but i'm going to swap to a pump so who cares. but for a 10 year old gun... come on.

just make sure you maintain it and it'll treat you well.

[Frizzle Fry]

i recently grabbed up a trilogy, and added a pump kit , any way to stop the roll-outs ?

A tightbore barrel works fine.

[PissedGodzilla]

I need to get the rest when I am home tonight, but here is a quick shot. I noticed a few things I am going to have to fix though. One, the o-ring under the ...(Sorry brain fart, the part of the front block with the karni Logo) seems to be broken and jutting out, so i will need to replace that. Secondly, the tab you pull out to field strip the bolt is sheared off so it's hard to grip it when trying to take it out. Easy fixes.

[PissedGodzilla]

Also been playing with it, and the trigger is a little uncomfortable, going to look around for trigger replacements as well.

[garbageman705]

Try adjusting it.

Also been playing with it, and the trigger is a little uncomfortable, going to look around for trigger replacements as well.

[Loneassassin]

Nice gun. Don't let some of these guys scare you about the timing - as there is virtually nothing to do on an electronic cocker. (Not that timing a mech cocker is difficult - and it hardly ever has to be done.)

Basically, this is all you have to do:

Make sure the hammer lug is adjusted so that when you manually trip the sear solenoid, it releases the hammer approximately 1/2 way through its travel. This will ensure that the noid has an easy time tripping the sear, and will allow you to shoot deeper into your battery's life.

Next, make sure the back block is adjusted on the pump rod so that when it is all the way forward, there is about a credit card's thickness between the block and the gun body. This will take away the "clacking" sound and prevent wear and tear on the ram, pump arm threads, and backblock.

That's really about it, other than the cocking rod adjustment, which is probably already adjusted correctly. Your Lpr pressure is determined by simply starting low and then turning it up while shooting so that it cocks the gun every time even at your max rate of fire. Most of these adjustments don't change once you set them, so it's kind of a one time deal. I've always put blue loctite on my hammer lugs so that they stay put (they are still adjustable). That's the most common thing that goes "out of time."

As far as upgrades go, a small bore barrel is a neccessity. The only ones I use are .679 and .682. I've been getting rollouts lately with the .682. Paint companies are cutting costs by reducing the size of our paint.

On my E-cocker, I have an MQ2 valve and a Tadao Yakuza board, a nice AKA Lpr, and it's halfblocked. Of all of those upgrades, the MQ2 has had the most pronounced effect.

The MQ elminates the hammer and springs, and allows you to run your lpr rediculously low, which translates to reduced kick and at least in my case, better efficiency. (2000 shots on a 68/4500.) The MQ also made it super quiet - in fact it is quieter than my friends DM 8.

The AKA lpr was also a good upgrade because it recharges so fast - I can run it much lower than my Tickler lpr, and it still keeps up to high rates of fire. I have run it as low as about 30psi and it still cycles at 12bps or so, and is so soft on paint it will not push a .684 ball into a .682 barrel!

As far as boards go - I only bought my Yakuza board because it was the last thing I could really do - and I wanted to create the "ultimate cocker." My E2 board is just fine - in fact most of the time I shoot in straight semi mode so they are pretty much equal in that regard. The Yakuza is much more user friendly in that you can access all the modes and adjustments without taking the grip off. And it is fun to have uncapped autoresponse or full auto modes accessable at the touch of a button. But I've found that I don't really use those modes in a game.

Other than that, the halfblocking I did reduced the overall weight, as well as the reciprocating mass. (lower reciprocating mass = less kick, less work for the ram = less lpr pressure needed.) But the Karni is a beautiful gun to halfblock - I wouldn't do it. You can achieve much of the recipcrocating weight reduction with a Slik bolt and pin. I have the whole Slik kit on my mech cocker and it has about the same recip mass as my halfblocked cocker.

Sorry about the huge post, but I live and breathe cockers and I'm always eager to help!!!

[Dayspring]

On my E-cocker, I have an MQ2 valve and a Tadao Yakuza board, a nice AKA Lpr, and it's halfblocked. Of all of those upgrades, the MQ2 has had the most pronounced effect.

The MQ elminates the hammer and springs, and allows you to run your lpr rediculously low, which translates to reduced kick and at least in my case, better efficiency. (2000 shots on a 68/4500.) The MQ also made it super quiet - in fact it is quieter than my friends DM 8.

Pissed got to shoot my MQ'd Freeflow at Tunaball a few weeks ago. Plus, "MQ" is a family friend of ours. It's not often one can claim to have a mad scientist on retainer.

[kcombs9]

sorry but the thread title makes me giggle...