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  • OPBN
    OldPBNoob

    • Sep 2008
    • 5240

    #16
    Originally posted by need4reebs View Post
    just have to keep practicing...maybe adjust the trigger stops?
    Pull is too much. Unless I want to put weights on my fingers and bulk them up, no amount of practice is going to help. I would easily compare the pull to that of my ULT'd Mag at this point. Bottom finger is fine, but with the trigger the way it is, the top pull is just too hard to walk properly. Tried turning the LPR down, but then it doesnt trip the sear. I compared to the Pneu that Loguzzzz set up and am hitting on nearly the identical spot on the sear. The trigger pin is a tad lower on my setup, but can't see it being that big of a difference. Just cant get the leverage.
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    • need4reebs
      OutKasT 4 Sho!!!

      • Feb 2011
      • 1441

      #17
      Originally posted by OPBN View Post
      Pull is too much. Unless I want to put weights on my fingers and bulk them up, no amount of practice is going to help. I would easily compare the pull to that of my ULT'd Mag at this point. Bottom finger is fine, but with the trigger the way it is, the top pull is just too hard to walk properly. Tried turning the LPR down, but then it doesnt trip the sear. I compared to the Pneu that Loguzzzz set up and am hitting on nearly the identical spot on the sear. The trigger pin is a tad lower on my setup, but can't see it being that big of a difference. Just cant get the leverage.
      can you post side by side pics of this frame and the frame Loguzzzz set up?
      http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...8715822556.gif

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      • OPBN
        OldPBNoob

        • Sep 2008
        • 5240

        #18
        Kind of hard to do. I would have to take apart them both apart to get them close. Trust me though, I am eyeballing them up and my sear rod hits the lever arm maybe a mm or two lower and the ram hits nearly identically as well. Even the geometry is really close.
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        • need4reebs
          OutKasT 4 Sho!!!

          • Feb 2011
          • 1441

          #19
          Originally posted by OPBN View Post
          Kind of hard to do. I would have to take apart them both apart to get them close. Trust me though, I am eyeballing them up and my sear rod hits the lever arm maybe a mm or two lower and the ram hits nearly identically as well. Even the geometry is really close.
          ok
          http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...8715822556.gif

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          • OPBN
            OldPBNoob

            • Sep 2008
            • 5240

            #20
            I'm wondering if part of it has to do with the valve? I have an RT On/off in it, but maybe its still too much.

            Edit: Checked my other one though and it is a regular RT on/off as well.
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            • need4reebs
              OutKasT 4 Sho!!!

              • Feb 2011
              • 1441

              #21
              Originally posted by OPBN View Post
              I'm wondering if part of it has to do with the valve? I have an RT On/off in it, but maybe its still too much.

              Edit: Checked my other one though and it is a regular RT on/off as well.
              swap valves?
              http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...8715822556.gif

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              • Spider-TW
                U R techno-literate!

                • Oct 2006
                • 3554

                #22
                Yeah, the RT on/off should be good. You still have a lot of the MSV-2 level in use, which makes the pull lighter. Something is binding and/or your LPR pressure is high. If you ground the back end of the ram a little, could you point it down a little more?

                The little WGP LPRs can be finicky. Mine would need to be set at a high pressure to operate after sitting a while, but a lot lower if adjusted while shooting. If you have a medium pressure bottle, you might see if it cares about the input pressure.

                Also, is this a level 7 or level 10 bolt? L7s work with old bolt springs, but weak springs and high velocity translate into more resistance on the sear from the bolt. Higher velocities also mean higher pressure on the on/off. So, make sure your bolt spring is fresh and you are not shooting hot.

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                • OPBN
                  OldPBNoob

                  • Sep 2008
                  • 5240

                  #23
                  Originally posted by Spider-TW View Post
                  Yeah, the RT on/off should be good. You still have a lot of the MSV-2 level in use, which makes the pull lighter. Something is binding and/or your LPR pressure is high. If you ground the back end of the ram a little, could you point it down a little more? Not really. The set screw is barely holding on as it is. I don't see any binding. When its not aired up, the trigger is very light.

                  The little WGP LPRs can be finicky. Mine would need to be set at a high pressure to operate after sitting a while, but a lot lower if adjusted while shooting. If you have a medium pressure bottle, you might see if it cares about the input pressure. I sat pulling the trigger and turning the LPR up until it started tripping the sear. I don't see how I could turn it any lower.

                  Also, is this a level 7 or level 10 bolt? L7s work with old bolt springs, but weak springs and high velocity translate into more resistance on the sear from the bolt. Higher velocities also mean higher pressure on the on/off. So, make sure your bolt spring is fresh and you are not shooting hot. Level 7 bolt. FPS is right around 280. Brand new shiny spring from a parts kit because the old one was pretty saggy.
                  I will say one thing I am using the might be out of the norm is I dont have a delrin or ss insert for the ram, so I am just using a common screw that seems to screw in. Not sure if that would cause any issues?

                  I guess I could swap out the valves just to test the setup.
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                  • GEE TEE
                    jake the peg

                    • Jul 2011
                    • 349

                    #24
                    How much did the guy on MCB charge for the reg cap?

                    Thinking about going this route on my next pumpmag build using a classic valve... mainly to loose some weight
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                    • OPBN
                      OldPBNoob

                      • Sep 2008
                      • 5240

                      #25
                      Originally posted by GEE TEE View Post
                      How much did the guy on MCB charge for the reg cap?

                      Thinking about going this route on my next pumpmag build using a classic valve... mainly to loose some weight
                      IIRC $25. Its really simple. Seems like something Renie could pop out in about 10 minutes. He was also making them for X valves, but took him too long to get them going. By the time he did I sold the X valve that I was going to use.
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                      • need4reebs
                        OutKasT 4 Sho!!!

                        • Feb 2011
                        • 1441

                        #26
                        Originally posted by OPBN View Post
                        I will say one thing I am using the might be out of the norm is I dont have a delrin or ss insert for the ram, so I am just using a common screw that seems to screw in. Not sure if that would cause any issues?

                        I guess I could swap out the valves just to test the setup.
                        do you have a LPR tester to the output of the LPR? not sure if your LPR is working correctly if you say,

                        "I sat pulling the trigger and turning the LPR up until it started tripping the sear. I don't see how I could turn it any lower."

                        if you dont have a LPR tester do you have another LPR you can try??
                        http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...8715822556.gif

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                        • OPBN
                          OldPBNoob

                          • Sep 2008
                          • 5240

                          #27
                          Have a microrock, but its a female dog to adjust once inside the frame. The other tickler I have is on the other pneu setup. Sold all the other LPRs I had.
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                          • need4reebs
                            OutKasT 4 Sho!!!

                            • Feb 2011
                            • 1441

                            #28
                            Originally posted by OPBN View Post
                            Have a microrock, but its a female dog to adjust once inside the frame. The other tickler I have is on the other pneu setup. Sold all the other LPRs I had.
                            its worth a try to get your pneumag set up right to try either the Micro Rock or the Tickler from your other pneumag? might be a pain but at least you will know if thats the issue or if its something else...but it sounds like the LPR is wats giving you problems?
                            http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...8715822556.gif

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                            • OPBN
                              OldPBNoob

                              • Sep 2008
                              • 5240

                              #29
                              True. I might have to just try screwing the micro rock into the side of the ASA and running and exterior line to the MSV to do some testing. I'll just turn the tickler off. Unfortunately, if I have to end up trying to use the microrock it will all but kill this project as i have no interest in using an LPR outside the frame. Negates a lot of the point of the build.

                              Aaaaand of course I'm out of air.
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                              • bbotts77
                                Dirty Frank
                                • Oct 2009
                                • 558

                                #30
                                Originally posted by OPBN View Post
                                True. I might have to just try screwing the micro rock into the side of the ASA and running and exterior line to the MSV to do some testing. I'll just turn the tickler off. Unfortunately, if I have to end up trying to use the microrock it will all but kill this project as i have no interest in using an LPR outside the frame. Negates a lot of the point of the build.

                                Aaaaand of course I'm out of air.
                                I received some springs to test in my ticklers, but I haven't gotten a chance to test them, yet. If they are in fact heavier springs that the stock ones, this may make ticklers more usable for pneumags. Hopefully, I'll get to test them soon. I'll let you know how they work out once I get to test them.

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