Originally posted by need4reebs
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Pull is too much. Unless I want to put weights on my fingers and bulk them up, no amount of practice is going to help. I would easily compare the pull to that of my ULT'd Mag at this point. Bottom finger is fine, but with the trigger the way it is, the top pull is just too hard to walk properly. Tried turning the LPR down, but then it doesnt trip the sear. I compared to the Pneu that Loguzzzz set up and am hitting on nearly the identical spot on the sear. The trigger pin is a tad lower on my setup, but can't see it being that big of a difference. Just cant get the leverage.
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can you post side by side pics of this frame and the frame Loguzzzz set up?Originally posted by OPBN View PostPull is too much. Unless I want to put weights on my fingers and bulk them up, no amount of practice is going to help. I would easily compare the pull to that of my ULT'd Mag at this point. Bottom finger is fine, but with the trigger the way it is, the top pull is just too hard to walk properly. Tried turning the LPR down, but then it doesnt trip the sear. I compared to the Pneu that Loguzzzz set up and am hitting on nearly the identical spot on the sear. The trigger pin is a tad lower on my setup, but can't see it being that big of a difference. Just cant get the leverage.
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Kind of hard to do. I would have to take apart them both apart to get them close. Trust me though, I am eyeballing them up and my sear rod hits the lever arm maybe a mm or two lower and the ram hits nearly identically as well. Even the geometry is really close.
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okOriginally posted by OPBN View PostKind of hard to do. I would have to take apart them both apart to get them close. Trust me though, I am eyeballing them up and my sear rod hits the lever arm maybe a mm or two lower and the ram hits nearly identically as well. Even the geometry is really close.
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I'm wondering if part of it has to do with the valve? I have an RT On/off in it, but maybe its still too much.
Edit: Checked my other one though and it is a regular RT on/off as well.
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swap valves?Originally posted by OPBN View PostI'm wondering if part of it has to do with the valve? I have an RT On/off in it, but maybe its still too much.
Edit: Checked my other one though and it is a regular RT on/off as well.
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Yeah, the RT on/off should be good. You still have a lot of the MSV-2 level in use, which makes the pull lighter. Something is binding and/or your LPR pressure is high. If you ground the back end of the ram a little, could you point it down a little more?
The little WGP LPRs can be finicky. Mine would need to be set at a high pressure to operate after sitting a while, but a lot lower if adjusted while shooting. If you have a medium pressure bottle, you might see if it cares about the input pressure.
Also, is this a level 7 or level 10 bolt? L7s work with old bolt springs, but weak springs and high velocity translate into more resistance on the sear from the bolt. Higher velocities also mean higher pressure on the on/off. So, make sure your bolt spring is fresh and you are not shooting hot.
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I will say one thing I am using the might be out of the norm is I dont have a delrin or ss insert for the ram, so I am just using a common screw that seems to screw in. Not sure if that would cause any issues?Originally posted by Spider-TW View PostYeah, the RT on/off should be good. You still have a lot of the MSV-2 level in use, which makes the pull lighter. Something is binding and/or your LPR pressure is high. If you ground the back end of the ram a little, could you point it down a little more? Not really. The set screw is barely holding on as it is. I don't see any binding. When its not aired up, the trigger is very light.
The little WGP LPRs can be finicky. Mine would need to be set at a high pressure to operate after sitting a while, but a lot lower if adjusted while shooting. If you have a medium pressure bottle, you might see if it cares about the input pressure. I sat pulling the trigger and turning the LPR up until it started tripping the sear. I don't see how I could turn it any lower.
Also, is this a level 7 or level 10 bolt? L7s work with old bolt springs, but weak springs and high velocity translate into more resistance on the sear from the bolt. Higher velocities also mean higher pressure on the on/off. So, make sure your bolt spring is fresh and you are not shooting hot. Level 7 bolt. FPS is right around 280. Brand new shiny spring from a parts kit because the old one was pretty saggy.
I guess I could swap out the valves just to test the setup.
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How much did the guy on MCB charge for the reg cap?
Thinking about going this route on my next pumpmag build using a classic valve... mainly to loose some weight
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IIRC $25. Its really simple. Seems like something Renie could pop out in about 10 minutes. He was also making them for X valves, but took him too long to get them going. By the time he did I sold the X valve that I was going to use.Originally posted by GEE TEE View PostHow much did the guy on MCB charge for the reg cap?
Thinking about going this route on my next pumpmag build using a classic valve... mainly to loose some weight
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do you have a LPR tester to the output of the LPR? not sure if your LPR is working correctly if you say,Originally posted by OPBN View PostI will say one thing I am using the might be out of the norm is I dont have a delrin or ss insert for the ram, so I am just using a common screw that seems to screw in. Not sure if that would cause any issues?
I guess I could swap out the valves just to test the setup.
"I sat pulling the trigger and turning the LPR up until it started tripping the sear. I don't see how I could turn it any lower."
if you dont have a LPR tester do you have another LPR you can try??
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Have a microrock, but its a female dog to adjust once inside the frame. The other tickler I have is on the other pneu setup. Sold all the other LPRs I had.
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its worth a try to get your pneumag set up right to try either the Micro Rock or the Tickler from your other pneumag? might be a pain but at least you will know if thats the issue or if its something else...but it sounds like the LPR is wats giving you problems?Originally posted by OPBN View PostHave a microrock, but its a female dog to adjust once inside the frame. The other tickler I have is on the other pneu setup. Sold all the other LPRs I had.
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True. I might have to just try screwing the micro rock into the side of the ASA and running and exterior line to the MSV to do some testing. I'll just turn the tickler off. Unfortunately, if I have to end up trying to use the microrock it will all but kill this project as i have no interest in using an LPR outside the frame. Negates a lot of the point of the build.
Aaaaand of course I'm out of air.
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I received some springs to test in my ticklers, but I haven't gotten a chance to test them, yet. If they are in fact heavier springs that the stock ones, this may make ticklers more usable for pneumags. Hopefully, I'll get to test them soon. I'll let you know how they work out once I get to test them.Originally posted by OPBN View PostTrue. I might have to just try screwing the micro rock into the side of the ASA and running and exterior line to the MSV to do some testing. I'll just turn the tickler off. Unfortunately, if I have to end up trying to use the microrock it will all but kill this project as i have no interest in using an LPR outside the frame. Negates a lot of the point of the build.
Aaaaand of course I'm out of air.
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