I'm interested in knowing where this ended up? I thought I remember people talking about mocking up a new printed parts so cutting is minimized.
My warpless Rotor project
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It looks like the warp tube needs to be fixed inside the lid to stay over top of the red paddle, since it turns. Is that the case?
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Ive tried hunting down the box rotor parts needed to make this great idea, but have been unsuccessful. Anyone have leads or access to dye parts?
I can't get due to respond to inquries
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Did you by chance test to see if the hopper would feed the gun consistently with out modification?
I'm thinking hopper totally stock, no mods, mounted with the proper bracket and a feed tube to the gun.
I'm kinda scared to cut up my rotor, by at the same time I fear the effort required to use a q loader, the alternative.
Thanks,
Jimyes, i could have purchased something new for the same money.
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This is what I am going to be trying to do. I haven't gotten everything set up to try it out yet though. I was going to order a higher torque motor and install it into the hopper and see if it will work.Originally posted by tucson.az.jbreen View PostDid you by chance test to see if the hopper would feed the gun consistently with out modification?
I'm thinking hopper totally stock, no mods, mounted with the proper bracket and a feed tube to the gun.
I'm kinda scared to cut up my rotor, by at the same time I fear the effort required to use a q loader, the alternative.
Thanks,
Jim
I would like to get the Box Rotor parts though, that seems like it would be a nice way to go.
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if someone gets me the top shell for the rotor,
i could try to cad one that doesnt have to be hacked up, i print it and you put it on your rotor, and boom warpless rotor.
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I'm not in on this project but I'm also not needing my rotor for a couple of months. I don't care to send the top piece out for blueprinting if there is anyone that wants to cover shipping each way.Originally posted by knownothingmags View Postif someone gets me the top shell for the rotor,
i could try to cad one that doesnt have to be hacked up, i print it and you put it on your rotor, and boom warpless rotor.
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I think I have the standard shell top as well that I'm not using. I have the extended capacity on my rotor currently, so the standard tip is in my spare parts bucket. Not sure if you need the lid and ext, but I can send the plan top without the lid. Since it's sitting I can send without worrying to much with time frame as long as I do get it back.
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i might be set but ill keep it in mind.Originally posted by blackdeath1k View PostI'm not in on this project but I'm also not needing my rotor for a couple of months. I don't care to send the top piece out for blueprinting if there is anyone that wants to cover shipping each way.
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I can send a complete lid/top, although I think you have it already covered. Let me know if this is of interest to you.
I'm excited to see this done, especially on the design end. I was thinking more about the feed port that will arise out of the lid and how it connects to the internal paddle (red piece) from box rotor. As previously mentioned, the paddles spin which make it a critical point since much is dependent on stack psi. I was invisioning a portion of the internal lid contains a sleeve oriented directly above the spinning paddles in the printed lid. This would allow flexibility in tolerances and allow the user to insert a cut 10rd tube to precise length without touching the paddles. Anyhow, I'm excited to see this come to life.
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why not just 3d print the piece that holds the lid on and a diagram of here to the the existing shell to make it fit. instead of doing a whole new top.
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because I can make a top that has no mods or cutting all the plumbing is articulated.Originally posted by captian pinky View Postwhy not just 3d print the piece that holds the lid on and a diagram of here to the the existing shell to make it fit. instead of doing a whole new top.
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