Just an idea for those old Carbon Fiber Frames

[C_losjoker]

Hahahaha that's why I don't like posting from my phone. Binumbers, the guard in your mock up. What if the set screw attached to the side of the frame, both at the top where it is against the rail and by the frame panels.

I would think 3d printing would be easy and yeah I would pick up 2. Have at least two frames that need it.

[bowcycle]

Guys, if you're okay using small screws in this equation, then you just lengthen Goatboy's guard and flatten the top end of it so it goes to the front of the frame. Drill a small hole in it and the guard attaches into the meat of the frame in front of the TL pin. I know some setups have the VASA right against the frame, but not many of them are so tight that you couldn't get 1/8" of plastic in there.

If you want it to curve back up behind the double trigger, then it can attach the same way into the meat of the frame that used to be the lower part of the guard.
I think Goatboy's version is slightly more attractive for the lower mounting point, but to each his own.

[paint magnet]

Why not use the grip panels to keep it in place? You should be able to 3D print one with a flat section toward the bottom of the guard to slide in between the grip panel and frame, secured by the grip screw, and that curls back toward the trigger at the top such that you can secure it underneath the screw that holds the body in place (which will probably have to be slightly longer)

I don't like the idea of connecting with the original guard for two reasons:

1.) I used this as a trigger stop when I played with a CF frame (install trigger and file down just enough for it to fire)
2.) Your fingers always end up jammed behind the guard on any style frame with this guard I have ever used

Either way, it probably looks better than my JB Weld trigger guard

*edit*
GoatBoy, who did you get to mill your valve and how much weight did that shave?

[river031403]

that design might not work depending on where the top "pin" goes...remember, the twistlock pin is in that area. you can't really have the pin going through it lol.

That's what I said lol I ran into that issue when I mounted my grip

[BiNumber3]

Oh perfect, another reason why I think having the lower connection attach to the cut end would be more ideal: Grips, Rubber and Wood grips would have to be modified if the lower part connected anywhere else.

Also, since it wouldn't really affect the lower part of the cut end of the frame, shouldn't affect its use as a trigger stop.

[GoatBoy]

The valve back isn't milled per se; it's taken from an AA raptor regulator. It saves a relatively large amount of weight. It brings a classic valve within 1oz of an x-valve.

Anyways, back to guard.

The issues are:

1. We're not dealing with a lot of space/material. I'm not the first to do anything like this; there are lots of other examples out there even if they're kind of hard to find.
2. We're not dealing with a lot of *consistency*. I have a few cut frames from other people, and they're all kind of cut slightly differently.

Not only that, I'm not even using mine on a classic rail, so I can't count on things like the foregrip hole.

I really just made thing that was simplest and still worked for my particular setup. I don't use the TL pin, and dragging the lower side back into the grip frame/grip wraparound (had to carve a slot for it) was good enough for me. I still do think reusing the TL pin hole and just making a new TL pin assembly that doesn't go below the rail is the way to go, but with a few caveats.

So trying to "make one with everything" might be asking a bit too much, but the good thing about 3d printing is you can customize your solution.

Best thing to do might be to get a base guard template with correct dimensions into Onshape or some drafting program, and then you guys can customize it to whatever you want.

[The Dawg]

This is a really cool idea. What if you reused the front frame screw and replaced the bottom the of the TL hole? Basically you could cut the top of the grip "flat" in front of the trigger. (like the cut make on the picture above) It would make the front top of the trigger guard pretty chunky, but still totally functional. I am having a hard time describing this in words. If I can find the time I can try and draw something up in inventor.