BW Classic Valve Reg Cap
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It is close, but not there. I am sure i could make one for warp bodies though.i second the idea of cutting the front of the body, flush as possible. wonder how a warp left body would look on this set up. also a short barrel would look great on this, like a stella or freak back. I always thought doing a freak with OD like an apex would look great on lots of automags.
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I would be interested in what the actual pressure is. IIRC the Classic valve has an operating pressure of 400psi so it stands to reason much more than that would raise your fps over 300, also it seems like I recall that the X valve runs at 475psi(?)
None of that matters as long as it chronos where you want it, I'm only curious..
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i have the same blue warp body. Luke you need to make a short stella tip that has the same OD as the apex. would look good on this.Comment
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I will check tonight. I know the level 7 was lower than the level 10 but not really sure number wise where that fell.I would be interested in what the actual pressure is. IIRC the Classic valve has an operating pressure of 400psi so it stands to reason much more than that would raise your fps over 300, also it seems like I recall that the X valve runs at 475psi(?)
None of that matters as long as it chronos where you want it, I'm only curious..
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I had that same question about 16 months ago. Didn’t get any replies. I think it was athomas that had the numbers, but I haven’t been able to contact him.I would be interested in what the actual pressure is. IIRC the Classic valve has an operating pressure of 400psi so it stands to reason much more than that would raise your fps over 300, also it seems like I recall that the X valve runs at 475psi(?)
None of that matters as long as it chronos where you want it, I'm only curious..
This is the forum for trouble shooting your Airgun Designs products, including the Automag, RT, E-Mag, and WarpFeed. Also a great place to ask technical questions about non AGD products. An Airsmith's homeroom!
For operating pressure, I was recently thinking about making a power tube tip/extension that I could hook a gage up to, but measuring it on a capped valve with external regulator works too.
Not sure how to easily get residual pressure.Last of the Salzburg ClanComment
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Looks like about 530ish psi based.
rt on/off, level 10, gold spring I was shooting about 285-290 fps when i was the field.

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I think it is because they use the stock on/off. I find it is easier to short stroke.
I also think there are a lot of people that don't fully understand how to install the level 10 in a classic valve.Comment
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To be a viable test you would need to change to L7, use the same return spring, on/off, regulator, and match chrono readings as close as possible.
I would guess not much if anything would change, but it would be interesting to see what happens.Comment
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I thought I remember something about the reason the Level 10 has a higher operating pressure is, in part, because it’s leaking out the vent hole as it shoots to give that initial slower bolt speed. But yeah, that’s why I’m curious about the number to see if any of that is correct.
Edit: Forgot to mention, it also starts with a smaller piston diameter on which the pressure acts, but it essentially has to overcome the same force (mass of bolt and spring compression). I think initial pressure would have to be higher for Level 10.Last edited by nak81783; 02-24-2023, 10:22 AM.Last of the Salzburg ClanComment
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Yea the on/off really seems to be the sticking point, even with the RT on/off, though it's better than the rest.
Do you mean how to install the L10 in general or is there something specific you need to do different with the Classic valve?Comment
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That's why Jake's setup is so interesting, it's testable without having to destroy a valve by installing a pressure gauge in the dump chamber. (As long as he's willing to play)
TK has done all these tests already but all that info is buried deep here in the archives somewhere. I remember bits and pieces but nothing concrete sticks out.
I think there's some work arounds outside the point of view of factory lifetime warranties and TK employing people to keep markers on the field, all on his dime.
There's a lot of savvy players these days that dont get tripped up by tech, so there may be a worthwhile trade off using quad orings in the on/off and L10. They loosen things up nicely but will require more maintenance, I'm just not sure what the trade off is at this point. For me swapping orings once or twice a season might be worth it but that's not for everyone.
At the least it would be worth testing, if Jake wants to test it in this build I'll send the orings over. :) I've started to test them myself and more to come, just haven't got any final results yet..Comment



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