Community Service Project.

[paintbattler]

u should say "no editing" because they could change their answers of ppl that come after them

[cwuchu]

I'll give this a shot.

1) In the Level 10 configuration what is the purpose of the shims?

The shims act like powertube spacers, in a way, in that they control when the air starts venting from the valve. The shims control how far forward the carrier can move (just like the powertube o ring in the original set up) and thus control when the piston in the bolt starts to vent.

2) Explain to me the concept of the carriers and thier respective marking system.

The carriers come in different sizes to suit tolerance diffentces in powertube o-ring batches. The carriers control the size of the hole of the powertube o-ring inside of it and thus control how well the piston is sealed from leaking and releasing air. If the carrier is too big, air will leak from the chamber before the bolt is released. If the carrier is too small, bolt stick might occur and the gun might not fire at all. Finding the right size carrier to "squeeze" the powertube o ring around the bolt piston just right is neccessary to prevent both aforementioned issues. The carriers come in 10 sizes. They have grooves cut around the outside of them. The number of grooves vary from 0 to 4. The smaller the number of grooves the smaller the id of the carrier (thus more "squeeze" on the piston). They also come in "tweener" sizes that are sized in between the five main carriers. The tweener sizes have three divits on the outside of them. There is one tweener size in between each main size of carrier. I.E. 0, 0 with divit, 1, 1 with divit, etc.

3) What springs would you use for the respective velocities 230fps, 250fps, 300fps. Explain to me the purpose of the interchangable spring system.

The springs used at those velocites vary on tolerances, but the original mainspring is recommended for 250 fps. Above 250, the three springs the come with the lvl 10 mod should be used. The larger the spring, the more resistance is put on the bolt and thus, the higher the pressure will need to be to shoot the bolt. Higher pressure means higher velocity while shooting so, from 250-300, the smaller the spring, the lower the velocity will be while the mod is operating correctly. The long spring is recommended for shooting between 280-90 so it would probably be used for 300 fps. As for 230, you could probably use the stock spring (just turn down the velocity) or trim the stock spring. Again, tolerance differences will make each gun shoot differently and thus requires different lengths of the springs in the gun. You need to find the point where the bolt pinches the balls, but also fires balls at an acceptable velocity.

4) Explain the role of the dual diameter power piston assembly.

The dual diameter power piston assembly allows the bolt to move at different speeds during the firing process, and thus help to prevent ball chops. The smaller assembly (carrier) allows air to vent from the air chamber during the early process of firing; while the bolt is beginning to move forward. This is needed so a ball will get pinched - not chopped if in the way as the bolt is moving only at 4-6 fps. Once the bolt clears the feed tube, the vent closes and full pressure is applied to the system as the bolt loads, fires, and retracts at normal speed to keep the firing rate almost the same as before the mod.

5) You find that you are still able to chop paint with the correct spring. What do you do next?

If you can still chop paint with the correct spring, you should move to a larger sized spring to increase the tension on the bolt so it will move slower during the vent phase of the cycle of the gun. The velocity will be higher as a result though. Fine tuning (trimming) of the springs may be needed to find a point where the bolt pinches the balls, but also fires balls at an acceptable velocity.
There is also another option. If you are chopping balls you can take out a shim so the bolt will be delayed into going into the "full throttle" mode. A combination of these two will most likely give you a good lvl 10 mod.

Multiple Choice:

1) You find yourself without a powertube spacer what part can be used as a substitute given appropriate modification.

d) Hex nuts from your warp feed or VL elbow.

2) A person at your local field is sportin an Automag RT that his friend decided to "hook up" he is complaining about how his gun is firing 2 shots per trigger pull one on the pull and one on the release he most likely.

a) has an autoresponse frame.

3) You friend just got a new automag from modified paintball last week and he is complaining about shootdown what should he check.

a) his on/off


4) You just did a 12 volt mod to your warpfeed and you can't get it to stop spinning what should you do.

b) change the sensitivity on the warp


5) The bases Uracil, Thyamine, Guanine, and Cytosene combine to form.

a) DNA

[Butterfingers]

Nobody yet.

Im gonna let it run until tuesday

Remember the multiple choice questions are delibrately deceptive.

[marley618]

Are we allowed to edit our answers, or can we repost them with changes?

[mykroft]

1. The shims control when the small hole in the inner piston of the SB2 starts venting into the powertube, this has the effect of controlling when the bolt goes into the second phase of it's stroke.

2. The carriers hold the O-rings that seal the firtst piston off from the powertube at the beginning of the stroke. There are multiple sizes for tuning, There are also 2 types of carriers, tweeners and regulars. Tweeners are denoted by divots, indicating a half-size difference instead of a full size difference, they were created due to tolerance issues with o-rings. Standard (and tweener) carriers sizes are deonted by the number of grooves, ranging from 0-4 grooves. The more grooves. the larger the carrier. Carriers should seal well, but not cause friction on the bolt.

3. 230fps: cut stock mainspring
250fps: Stock mainspring
300fps: Middle or long LVL 10 mainspring, depending on tuning.

4. The smaller piston of the dual diameter system accelerates the bolt slowly and without a lot of force, in order to prevent chopping. After a certain point in the stroke, determined by the number of shims, it also starts venting into the pwoertube & breech, which brings up the pressure in there, for a somwhat smoother changeover to the large piston. At the end of the small pistons stroke, when it clears the carrier, the bolt seals to the power tube tip briefly, allowing the large piston to fill up to firing pressure & continue the stroke at full firing pressure & speed.

5. Go to the next smaller carrier, your paint is most likely very fragile, and this will slow the bolt down more. Note that this may cause intermittent bolt stick.


Multiple choice:

1. C, in a pinch a rail bushing is the right diameter to function as a PT spacer.

2. Most likely his buddy shortened the on/off pin to make the gun more easily reactive. So B is the correct answer.

3. B.

4. B, the warp is overly sensitive, turn that baby down.

5. D, the two springs in the ReTro Valve spring pac do a convincing double-helix imitation.

[zvanut]

bey butterfingers,

if we want to change answers do we edit our post or make a new one

[Butterfingers]

you can make a new one but it will be counted as a later entry

[zvanut]

second chance

1.
in the forward stroke of the bolt the shims control where the air chamber vents

2.
carriers create a seal without a lot of friction

they have small grooves to tell them apart. they are also different sizes.

3.
230 is the main spring from a parts kit
250 is a normal main spring or a trimmed level 10 spring
300 is the level 10 main spring
the springs are used to change the velocity, because the tension in the spring can change tension on the bolt.

4.
the dual diameter power piston assembly put the tip of the bolt just underneath the next ball in the feed tube. then when the gun is fired it pushes the bolt foward shottin the ball


5.
you start with the longest mainspring, assemble and gas up the marker.if it does not fire turn up the velocuty. if it starts leaking out the back switch to the next smallest main spring.

Multiple choice

1. C
2. A
3. C (i know it is a long shot but hey...)
4. A
5. A

[marley618]

1- The shims control where in the forward stroke the air chamber starts venting.

2- The different size carriers are to create a good seal with the least amount of friction.

3- "trimmed" lvl 10 spring 300fps
long lvl 10 spring250fps
normal bolt spring (nonlvl 10 spring) 230 fps
The change of spring size/tension with the change of velocity makes it easier to compress the spring with the given amount of pressure(according to fps)

4- The power piston assembly acts like a cork to seal the air chamber, lvl 10 reduces its size which allows the spring to hold it back easier (also deals with #3)

5- Go to the next smaller carrier. Trimming the spring to the correct length will also make a difference.

1 c
2 a
3 a
4 b
5 a

[einhander619]

1. The shims control when the chamber vents its air. The more you add, the earlier it happens. No shims means it won't vent, lots of shims means it vents constantly, aka leaks.

2. The purpose of the carrier system is to ensure the tolerances of the powertube/bolt system are in sync to provide the correct amount of friction to allow the pressure of the two pistons to be differentiated. This is due to the inconsistent nature of urethane o-rings. The Beta system uses normal carriers and "tweeners" to allow for further fine tuning. The carriers are denoted by grooves, with the tweeners having divots. The larger the carrier, the more grooves.

3. The stock spring is good for 230 fps
The standard lvl 10 spring is good for 250 fps
The cut spring is good for 300 and will most likely be used in my RT classic.

The AIR valve is a dump chamber design, therefore velocity is a function of chamber pressure. Different spring tensions are necessary to counteract the differing chamber pressure.

4. The dual piston design is the heart of the two-stage system. The small piston handles the low pressure stage of the cycle, venting a small amount of air into the powertube. By the time the air pressure is equalized with the pressure in the dump chamber, this new equalized pressure pushes on the larger piston, Accelerating the bolt. At this time the bolt should be past the next ball in the stack and is ready to go full throttle, and retract quickly to maintain firing rate. Due to this small loss in pressure during the "gear change," lvl 10's efficiency will be slightly less than a normal AIR valve.

5. Decrease the size of the carrier. The increased friction it generates will slow the bolt further. This is a trick usually reserved for very fragile paint, and the carrier must be oiled daily to prevent reliability issues, and even then this technique increases the likelihood of bolt stick.

Multiple Guess:

1. C. The correct modification is to file down the lip on the bushing.

2. B. An autoresponse setup is too expensive, involved, and rare to be a "hookup," most likely the on/off pin was shortened, making the gun too reactive.

3. C. This is not an autococker, people. He should check his drop forward and make sure that he has a high pressure setup behind it and not CO2. If he does have CO2 on there, then he needs to get in touch with Don and get an HP air setup!

4. B, then A. This is a vague problem, with many possible solutions based on the situation. If it is a new warp, the brushes on the motor are not broken in yet, and are causing too much electrical noise, which the system interperets as a fire signal. The sensitivity should be set just where the warp turns continuosly, and then let it turn until the brushes break in and stop causing noise. If that does not work, then 12v simply generates too much noise period. In that case, radio shack capacitors should be used around the motor and the sensor to "scrub" the signal. As a last resort, use the jumpers to disable the sensor and intellifeed that baby. Of course, if you have an I-frame, you should do that anyways!

5. D. Ooh, you're a clever one. I'm not giving away the answer to this...MCATs indeed...

With this knowledge I swear to do only good for AO and paintballers everywhere, to never fire my marker in anger, and to promote paintball(and mags) wherever I go. BTW, I have recommended modifiedpaintball ever since I first did business with you guys. Keep up the good work!

[cwuchu]

2nd entry.

I'll give this a shot.

1) In the Level 10 configuration what is the purpose of the shims?

The shims act like powertube spacers, in a way, in that they control when the air starts venting from the valve. The shims control how far forward the carrier can move (just like the powertube o ring in the original set up) and thus control when the piston in the bolt starts to vent.

2) Explain to me the concept of the carriers and thier respective marking system.

The carriers come in different sizes to suit tolerance diffentces in powertube o-ring batches. The carriers control the size of the hole of the powertube o-ring inside of it and thus control how well the piston is sealed from leaking and releasing air. If the carrier is too big, air will leak from the chamber before the bolt is released. If the carrier is too small, bolt stick might occur and the gun might not fire at all. Finding the right size carrier to "squeeze" the powertube o ring around the bolt piston just right is neccessary to prevent both aforementioned issues. The carriers come in 10 sizes. They have grooves cut around the outside of them. The number of grooves vary from 0 to 4. The smaller the number of grooves the smaller the id of the carrier (thus more "squeeze" on the piston). They also come in "tweener" sizes that are sized in between the five main carriers. The tweener sizes have three divits on the outside of them. There is one tweener size in between each main size of carrier. I.E. 0, 0 with divit, 1, 1 with divit, etc.

3) What springs would you use for the respective velocities 230fps, 250fps, 300fps. Explain to me the purpose of the interchangable spring system.

The springs used at those velocites vary on tolerances, but the original mainspring is recommended for 250 fps. Above 250, the three springs the come with the lvl 10 mod should be used. The larger the spring, the more resistance is put on the bolt and thus, the higher the pressure will need to be to shoot the bolt. Higher pressure means higher velocity while shooting so, from 250-300, the smaller the spring, the lower the velocity will be while the mod is operating correctly. The long spring is recommended for shooting between 280-90 so it would probably be used for 300 fps. As for 230, you could probably use the stock spring (just turn down the velocity) or trim the stock spring. Again, tolerance differences will make each gun shoot differently and thus requires different lengths of the springs in the gun. You need to find the point where the bolt pinches the balls, but also fires balls at an acceptable velocity.

4) Explain the role of the dual diameter power piston assembly.

The dual diameter power piston assembly allows the bolt to move at different speeds during the firing process, and thus help to prevent ball chops. The smaller assembly (carrier) allows air to vent from the air chamber during the early process of firing; while the bolt is beginning to move forward. This is needed so a ball will get pinched - not chopped if in the way as the bolt is moving only at 4-6 fps. Once the bolt clears the feed tube, the vent closes and full pressure is applied to the system as the bolt loads, fires, and retracts at normal speed to keep the firing rate almost the same as before the mod.

5) You find that you are still able to chop paint with the correct spring. What do you do next?

If you can still chop paint with the correct spring, you should move to a larger sized spring to increase the tension on the bolt so it will move slower during the vent phase of the cycle of the gun. The velocity will be higher as a result though. Fine tuning (trimming) of the springs may be needed to find a point where the bolt pinches the balls, but also fires balls at an acceptable velocity.
There is also another option. If you are chopping balls you can take out a shim so the bolt will be delayed into going into the "full throttle" mode. A combination of these two will most likely give you a good lvl 10 mod.

Multiple Choice:

1) You find yourself without a powertube spacer what part can be used as a substitute given appropriate modification.

d) Hex nuts from your warp feed or VL elbow.

2) A person at your local field is sportin an Automag RT that his friend decided to "hook up" he is complaining about how his gun is firing 2 shots per trigger pull one on the pull and one on the release he most likely.

b)needs a new on/off pin

3) You friend just got a new automag from modified paintball last week and he is complaining about shootdown what should he check.

c) his dropforward


4) You just did a 12 volt mod to your warpfeed and you can't get it to stop spinning what should you do.

a) go to radio shack


5) The bases Uracil, Thyamine, Guanine, and Cytosene combine to form.

a) DNA

[Jonno06]

just from readin everyones answered i learned alot of new stuff

[hitech]

1) In the Level 10 configuration what is the purpose of the shims?

The purpose of the shims is to position the oring carrier farther into the power tube. This causes the vent hole in the power piston to clear the orings sooner. Therefore...

The shims controls the timing of the "venting". More shims, earlier venting. This is because the shims keep the oring carrier farther down on the power piston.

2) Explain to me the concept of the carriers and their respective marking system.

The carriers hold the orings that seal the power piston. Included in the kit are carriers of varying sizes. The are marked with groves on the outside of the carrier. The more groves, the larger the carrier. The initial run of carriers did not allow for enough "adjustment". New "half" size carriers are included that contain the original groves and three small divits. So in size order, from smallest to largest are 0 groves, 0 groves with divits, 1 grove, 1 grove with divits, etc...

3) What springs would you use for the respective velocities 230fps, 250fps, 300fps. Explain to me the purpose of the interchangable spring system.

There isn't a spring for specific velocities. 230fps is going to need a softer sprint than 250fps which will need a softer spring than 300fps. Once the velocity is set you need to have a spring that is stiff enough to keep the initial bolt speed low but not so stiff that it won't shoot at all. One method of "tuning" is to turn up the velocity until the marker just starts to shoot and crono it. It should be approx. 20fps less than you are attempting to achieve. Once you find the correct spring, you adjust the marker to your target velocity.

4) Explain the role of the dual diameter power piston assembly.

The "first stage" and smaller piston provides less force and therefore a slower bolt speed. The "second stage" provides the increased force and speed to maintain the rof.

5) You find that you are still able to chop paint with the correct spring. What do you do next?

If you want to avoid that, use a smaller (tighter) oring carrier.

Multiple Choice:

1) You find yourself without a powertube spacer what part can be used as a substitute given appropriate modification.

c) A Rail Bushing

2) A person at your local field is sportin an Automag RT that his friend decided to "hook up" he is complaining about how his gun is firing 2 shots per trigger pull one on the pull and one on the release he most likely.

b) needs a new on/off pin.

3) You friend just got a new automag from modified paintball last week and he is complaining about shootdown what should he check.

a) his on/off

4) You just did a 12 volt mod to your warpfeed and you can't get it to stop spinning what should you do.

b) change the sensitivity on the warp
(That, and let it break in longer. That is what I had to do)

5) The bases Uracil, Thyamine, Guanine, and Cytosene combine to form.

a) DNA

[RT_Luver]

I cant belI'm lost witht he first 5, BUT i'll give the last 5 a shot. I know I wont win, BUT maybe I'll ge them right..hehe

1.D
2.A
3.A
4.b
5. I'm gunna say Amino acids, but when I first read it, I thought RNA

hey hey hey...wanna know something I learned in science this year....DNA stands for Deoxyribo Nucleaic Acids and RNA stands for Ribo Nucleaic Acids... I cant believe I've been outta school for 4 weeks and I still remember that...haha. I guess I AM gettin smarter.

[Butterfingers]

pick the best answer to the question, yes all of them have an answer as bad as the correct choice may be it is the only option.