Warped.... Mayhem???

[nicad]

heheh.. still getting the bugs worked out. I think there prolly like one other person out there that I know of that has done this.. :)
its a MayhemEC2 with modified body for 45* below warp feed entry.







out!

[Rynoboy06]

Melt the revy and that'll be TIGHT!

[magman007]

thats pretty cool! hey is it true the mayhem is based on the nova?

[nicad]

yeah both were developed by PGI.. except the mayhem' bolt moves instead of the barrel..
100psi operating pressure
angel threaded feed tube.
cocker threaded barrels.
closd bolt (good/bad/ugly.. it just is)
very light weight.

gas HOG.
chops.. would cut a finger off.
loud.
slow (8bps max)

anyways.. thats the rundown of Mayhems. there is a very small handfull of us who are trying to modify it to make it better in some regards. :)
from chopless to faster to less gass hog..

out!

[lunchbox]

yeah but why melt the revy on that gun the hose pretty much goes straight up to the gun. i mean just cause everyone melts there revy isnt a good reason to melt a revy. they melt it to keep the hose straight. and on this gun the hose looks alot straighter than it would running thru the revy.

[paintballrulzs]

I almost got a mayhem a while ago. How does it perform to other priced guns

[nicad]

melting the revvy would allow the revy to be twisted in more.. but since there is not foregrip on this setup, the hopper does not get in the way of the front hand. (its confy holding onto the bottom of the warp caseing)

paintballrulzs- I think you can get Mayhems for like $250-$300, which isnt bad for an electro.
they can be quit frustrating if they chop, since they require almost complete teardown to clean the bolt/chamber.
Sicne it is closed bolt, it has a pre-set wait time for a ball to fall in. if it catches a ball, it will chop it cause there is over 100LBs (im not talkin psi here) of force that the bolt exerts.

hope this helps..
out!

[sniper1rfa]

you have done well young grasshopper...

:)
hmmmm... so whos the other guy...
you did precisely what i did, right down to thinning the tube to fit the hose over it and down to the plastic getting bent enough to turn it white in the top ring of the warp hose.

good job.

BTW, the bolt exerts a little over 175 pounds (the piston part of the bolt has an area of roughly 1.765 in squared, running at 100 psi). it can almost cut a pencil in half. although i think with a little (read: a lot) of modification, a sort of LX mod could be done, ill look into it.

[nicad]

well speak of the devil! >:-)
pretty slow over on pbnation, isnt it?

yeah it was fun making it all "hooverphonic" looking.. :)
i didnt know you had done the feed in from the lower part as well tho.. but who could resist on the mayhem's body setup, right? :)

the feed tube is about 1/2" long sticking out.. I turned a coupla ridges into it so that the warp feed tube would snap over onto it and hold itself on w/o any distortion..

yeah I still think the mayhem holds some potential.. my main focus is of course getting the bolt to not chop.. i like your "level10" idea... Iv also made a bolt setup which should lower the exertion force down to around.. oh.. 4lbs? :)
the new bolt weighs 0.2oz (6grams).
might be giving Tom's claim of the automag having the least reciprocating(spl?) mass a run for the money.. :)

latuh..

[BajaBoy]

my friend looked into those last xmas, 8bps max?????? no way...

[DiRTyBuNNy]

wow...8pbs..you might as well get an Epic...oh..they're like 9bps...(I'm one away from 1000 posts...here i come...Post Whore Status is MINE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

[sniper1rfa]

dropping the bolt pressure on

stock mayhem is easy. just make a new powertube-ish-type-deal that doesnt have that one way valve o-ring setup. then block off the main vent into the dump chamber, after that its a simple process to drill holes in the sleeve at the point where the powertube clears if the bolt is about halfway open. instant level ten, though you need to drill out the vent to the powertube-ish-type-deal. since the return spring is so hard, it will counteract the first stage force of 19 lbs (its about 25 lbs compressed, so probably around 15 halfway there) and drop it to about four. :-) INSTANT level 3 (10). which i may talk leon into being a stock feature, BUT, my new spring will be too, so that will cause problems.
you say you have made something that would, and thats not possible. did you physically make it or no?

now, try figuring out how to do it with my spring. measures in at 9 lbs compressed (gets rid of blow back with a well fitting bolt), and about four where you need it in that mod. makes major complications in the setup, as it only brings the bolt pressure down to about 15, still too much.

and damn, you beat me, mine wieghs about 15 grams. no kick

bajaboyAGD, i have cycled mine at 12 bps, which is fast enough. with a little drilling and an RT style reg, im sure i could get it to about 15-16.

and i did melt the revvy (score for me), makes the gun really tight. its also easier to tip the gun without exposing the hopper coming out the left.

[nicad]

(Warning! bigars post ahead!)

sniper1rfa-

have you made that L3 mod yet, and does it work (like its suppose to)? I like it.. its very simple. :)
what do you mean "block off the main vent into the dump chamber".. are you talking about the slot milled into the power-tube piston? Im assuming you would want to re-make that piston(without a slot in it to start off with) since you have to make its Oring seal and not one-way.

My only question about operation of this is, when you fire, the air is dumped out from behind that piston, but it is now also directly dumping air out of the main chamber (via our new holes in the power tube). will this still create enough pressure difference to break the piston away from the bolt?

To make it work with your "wonder spring" (which i should prolly order a few from ya) :) shouldnt be too hard.
think along the lines of the AGD lvl10 again. do everything you mentioned before, but now lets look only at the piston.

Im thinking of two slightly different ways of doing it..

****************** #1 ****************
for now, lets say our second "stage" begins at half throw (bolt, piston, etc..). like you said your holes in the power tube would engage at half of piston travel. now imagine slipping a sleeve down into the power tube to reduce the ID to about 0.375" from the original 0.5". the sleeve would be half the length of the piston travel(about 1/2") and somehow pressed in so that it will stay in place. the piston would also be reduced down on the end of it with a second smaller oring that would fit into the sleeve. as the piston moves out, the second smaller oring would exit the sleeve just as the main oring clears the powertube holes.

the orientation of the main oring on the piston would have to be moved up on the piston to make room for the reduced section/sleeve. I dont have one in front of me, but i think there is enough room for it all.. might be pretty close.. (crossing fingers) :)

about the only thing I have not thought out yet is how to easily/efficiently vent the pressure/vacuum which will develop between the two differently sized orings on the piston as the piston moves in its first half of travel... but im sure its all possible.

****************** #2 ****************
same as everything above, except no holes in the power tube. instead, let the larger (0.5") Oring be one-way again. it would still have to be moved up on the piston, etc.. but this way the smaller 0.375" Oring would BE the first stage. as soon as it exits its sleeve, the air would go around it and push past the larger one-way Oring, filling the chamber. when fired, and air is dumped out from behind the piston, the one-way Oring would still seal off and you would have no main-chamber air escaping with it, like in stock configuration.

as the piston continues to move back after the small Oring enters the sleeve, the pressure built up between the Orings can now vent past the one-way if it likes (if theres time!). when the piston moves out, there will be a slight vacuum pulled between them, but that should never get above 1.2Lbs (assuming full vacuum @1 atmosphere, which will not likely happen :) ) but this vacuum is just helping in preventing chops.

with the 0.375" powertube reducer sleeve(1/16" walls), the force pushing out the piston for the first half of its travel drops from your original 19.6Lbs down to 11Lbs. this minus the 4lbs your spring will be providing up to that point, that leaves about 7Lbs (shockers are at ~9lbs)..
MIGHT still chop, but dam its better than 175Lbs! lol..

ok my fingers hurt. if your still reading this, your a freaking die-hard mayhem fan (sniper1rfa excluded..)

out!!

[nicad]

oh yes.. all that i didnt even answer your question about what iv been working on. :)

what iv done is pretty much replace the bolt with one that has a drastically reduced "piston plate" on the back of it along with a reduced sleve around the outside of it for it to seal to (instead of the main body shell), but that not all. its a true sleeve bolt with a real stationary 'powertube' inside of it. the poppet-piston in the back seals into the back of this power-tube instead of the back of the bolt. the bolt is fed a constsnt 100psi to the front of it (the "spring") via internal plumming, and is still pushed forward from the back with the main chamber pressure. The poppet-piston only moves about 1/4" to fire, so it only dumps that much air from behind it, as opposed to stock configuration of it moving over an inch.. so should be more efficient

this might be very confusing, seeing as i just stated it all very poorly (and fast cause i gotta go!!).. but thats the general idea. Ill try to clear some of it up later...
I did build a prototype. im having a little difficulty mounting/sealing it to the existing components.
theoretically it should move at 4Lbs forward and about 6Lbs backwards. i love theories! heeh

oh and the bolt is 6grams made of aluminum.. i made a delrin one that was 3grams (with an oring). itll prolly die tho...

out!

[sniper1rfa]

whoa... posted at the same time... :-)

by main vent i mean not the one in the powertube. there are two, one in the powertube, and one behind the bolt beside the powertube.

as to your original ideas... im either confused or they are complicated. hmmm.

with my design, the pressure differential should be enough, but it will be slightly less efficient (D'OH!).
now that i think about it, with my design and my spring, i should be able to make it much easier on paint and much more efficient with the smaller powertube diameter.

as to your second post, huh? care to draw a pic? (you lost me...)

now, i think i get your second one, and i like it. ill have to whip something up along those lines for it.