Your first point I'll concede... Heck I conceded it. myself. Remember "you have a small point"
Sure his milling looks simple. And being the first, it's kinda neat. But we have NO CLUE WHATSOEVER what a typical body will be like. Just for that very reason. it's a sample dataset of one.
As for the installing of the detent. with no more than a drillpress and a vice you can get that detent in there as accurate as you care to have it. (a common tool, versus a mill which is quite uncommon) i'm expecting to see a lot of these bodys out tehre with merely a deten installed, and MAYBE anno. Have you seen how many cockers are out there with just the original anno on the uncut parts and bare alumnum elsewhere? How about bare aluminum bodys period. or bodys that were just annoed. it's nice to think the typical sluggo will be "properly" milled... but who knows.
At this point, neither I or you knows that answer. And why I more or less disqualified the sluggo as an option.
I did read your last paragraph carefully. And turned it around, hinting that you lived in hades. (which more or less makes us neighbors... reality ain't much different)
Back to the original point.... How to make the emag lighter.
"back in the day" And I'm talking 99 here. I saw people running around wiht RT's... with all sorts of parts hacked off the gun. The rail was chopped and shortened, the foregrip was removed, and the excess length of rail was removed up there. The body rail appeared to be narrowed, and the body was chopped as short as feasable....
You could pull many of those tricks on an emag. cut off hte lump off the back of the frame (given you have a mill to work with) shorten the body.. you can take a bit off both ends. Use an xvalve. (those just became available today) There's just a whole lot of excess on an emag.. and you can trim at will. don't mess with the rail between the body and the frame. Make sure the valve can seat in the body. and all the barrel o-rings are covered by body. Anything beyond that.. could be conssiddered excess weight.
*looks at the ulemag frame* Or do the AGD thing and make it hollow ;-)
I was concentrating on the warp, because it's a cheapish part to replace in comparison to a whole emag if you screw up. (same goes for loader halfs... and I kinda discount gun weight on a whole... other than that freaking weight from the warp hanging off to the side.. anything to make that lighter would make me a happy camper)
Sure his milling looks simple. And being the first, it's kinda neat. But we have NO CLUE WHATSOEVER what a typical body will be like. Just for that very reason. it's a sample dataset of one.
As for the installing of the detent. with no more than a drillpress and a vice you can get that detent in there as accurate as you care to have it. (a common tool, versus a mill which is quite uncommon) i'm expecting to see a lot of these bodys out tehre with merely a deten installed, and MAYBE anno. Have you seen how many cockers are out there with just the original anno on the uncut parts and bare alumnum elsewhere? How about bare aluminum bodys period. or bodys that were just annoed. it's nice to think the typical sluggo will be "properly" milled... but who knows.
At this point, neither I or you knows that answer. And why I more or less disqualified the sluggo as an option.
I did read your last paragraph carefully. And turned it around, hinting that you lived in hades. (which more or less makes us neighbors... reality ain't much different)
Back to the original point.... How to make the emag lighter.
"back in the day" And I'm talking 99 here. I saw people running around wiht RT's... with all sorts of parts hacked off the gun. The rail was chopped and shortened, the foregrip was removed, and the excess length of rail was removed up there. The body rail appeared to be narrowed, and the body was chopped as short as feasable....
You could pull many of those tricks on an emag. cut off hte lump off the back of the frame (given you have a mill to work with) shorten the body.. you can take a bit off both ends. Use an xvalve. (those just became available today) There's just a whole lot of excess on an emag.. and you can trim at will. don't mess with the rail between the body and the frame. Make sure the valve can seat in the body. and all the barrel o-rings are covered by body. Anything beyond that.. could be conssiddered excess weight.
*looks at the ulemag frame* Or do the AGD thing and make it hollow ;-)
I was concentrating on the warp, because it's a cheapish part to replace in comparison to a whole emag if you screw up. (same goes for loader halfs... and I kinda discount gun weight on a whole... other than that freaking weight from the warp hanging off to the side.. anything to make that lighter would make me a happy camper)
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