Super Light Mechanical Trigger Update

[Jerhew]

Originally posted by AGD
The trigger Hexis shot did have some reactivity to it you just couldn't feel it too well. We are going to put more back in, it currently doesn't have enough.

AGD

exactly the sort of thing i wanted to hear

[cphilip]

Ok well enough of this On Off pin talk. Its not the thing to do. Your better off waiting to see what Tom comes up with there.

You know when you adjust this on off pin relationship you are completely changing the sear lock up/release and Prefire-fire-and rear post fire travel points of the trigger to where the result can be unpredictable. And on the edge of no fire or runnaway. And that distance and relationship is carefully balanced by that pin. And when you try and get on the edge of bolt lock up failing or coming in too soon you eat bolts/sears and risk fire that you cannot control. Or even failure to fire when pulled to the side. That relationship is NOT something you want to risk messing with as it will not stay where you put it. And it will void your warranty on those parts too. You cannot improve on that carefull tolerance balance without risking making the marker not dependable in the long run. There is little gain from it and much to lose. You are creating a malfunction that not only will change as it goes but will eventualy missfire or not fire when you need it the most.

You should wait and see what Tom can do WITHIN the tolerance levels and within the critical trigger swing relationships that exist in a dependable setting. He has shown he can and I can assure you that its not by doing this.

Do not mess with that on off pin length. You do not want the results that you will get from this. You are forewarned. If it was a good plan it would already be incorporated don't cha know! Think about it!

[Tunaman]

Knock it off!

Guys! I am getting an *** reaming from the higher-ups over this crap. Changing your on-off pin from the stock one is the WRONG thing to do! There is NO "MOD" that can be done using different length pins. I do sell them...same as AGD does. I have no control over what you do with these pins or what valve you are putting them in. I DO NOT encourage or recommend that you change anything in the on/off assembly to lighten your trigger pull! Just because I sold you a pin, dont use my name when referring to this "MOD"! Changing the pin lengths WILL mess up your marker so dont do it! If it as simple as that, don't you think Tom would have included it already? And from now on, if you want pins, get them from the AGD store. I dont sell them anymore!

[cdawg]

Tunaman and cphilip...

I'm sorry. I have always been under the impression that a shorter AGD on/off pin would not harm the internals if set up properly. I'm still not completely sure why they sell shorter on/off pins. I know you can send your marker to AGD and they install a shorter on/off pin. In no way did I mean to get you in trouble or hurt your business. I was promoting it. I've edited your name out of all my posts.

[Dayspring]

I have always been a proponent against people messing with their on-off pins. Sadly, since I'm not an AGD tech, apparently people don't think I know what I'm talking about.

Maybe now that Phil and Tuna said it, people will start believing.

[cphilip]

The reason there are different on off pins is to adjust tolerances back to spec. So that any deviations that may have occured will be taken out not placed in as is proposed here. Sometimes you have to adjust something out of tolerance to get the firing point back into the middle of the range to make it fire reliably and have the right amount of return and follow thorugh. It is not designed to adjust it "Out of Spec" as is proposed here.

[QUINCYMASSGUY]

light trigger

I wonder if the new mod is a new sear setup that slides instead of pushes up on the on-off pin? That would mean the resistance would only be the new sears front holding the bolt and the replacement for the back part that would slide and seal the on-off by pushing up the pin. I don't know, the multiple parts thing has me wondering. Either way, I can't wait to see/get this!

[GT]

maybe this has been discussed but i really dont want to read 6 pages.

what about a spring attatcked to the end of the sear and attaching above the sear inside the frame? or maybe a spring that pushes from the bottom of the frame to the underside of the sear?

just saying......

jb

[Jerhew]

Originally posted by gtrsi
maybe this has been discussed but i really dont want to read 6 pages.

what about a spring attatcked to the end of the sear and attaching above the sear inside the frame? or maybe a spring that pushes from the bottom of the frame to the underside of the sear?

just saying......

jb

well there already is atleast one working prototype
Tom hasn't spilled the beans on how it actually works...
as of right now we can only guess

[GT]

Originally posted by Jerhew
we can only guess

I know that is what makes this board kinda fun. AGD posts something then we get to guess, most of the time we are all pretty far off.

jb

[Hexis]

I can pretty safely deduce that is has a lot to do with the On/Off assembly. Since Tom is adjusting the design to effect the reactivity of the trigger.

I do know the prototype I got to try felt great, and Tom was all but apologizing for it. I have every confidence that the end result will be well worth the wait.

[aut911]

DUDE! I love tom, in a non licking way mind you. He just cant stop making his guns better. Since the RT hes been on the up and up double time. And i thought that LX was the best thing yet. now super light trigger for my classic? woo hoo well anyways could Tom give us an approximate the trigger pull off weight? like 2, 3 pounds mabye? ah no big deal. what is the classic automags stock pull off weight anyways? 7 8 punds?

aut

[ddinwdc]

Ok, I'm coming around on this mecha thing

Having given it much thought, a nice light mecha trigger would be nice to have. I have always been a devote of the KISS principle, and, well, if you can get e performance without the batteries, then more power to you. However, there are some advantages to an e trigger that can't be attained with a mecha, namely vision and the elimination of short-stroking. I know, LX solves these problems, but not as efficiently (with vision, the gun won't even fire if the ball isn't sitting properly--better than having to fire and reset). So, if AGD wants to make a mecha trigger, more power to them--I'd certainly buy it. However, I hope that they will continue to examine, with real effort, an after-market, no frills etrigger as well.

[Dayspring]

The only problem with your idea DD is that an eye on a mag is problematic at best.

On an Autococker (with the Eblade) you have to drill two holes into the body only.

If you were to adapt this technology to the mag, you'd have to drill the body. (Non-ULE) This isn't the big issue really... Granted, it's stainless steel and will not want to drill anywhere as easily as the aluminum would. Secondly, you'd have to drill every barrel you own. Cocker bodies have a breech AND barrel area. In a standard Mag, they are one and the same. This may interfere with the twist lock system. (I can't tell cuz I don't have a barrel in front of me.) This begins to get technically complicated for an eye.

HOWEVER, using this eye idea for the new ULE bodies is an excellent one. The breech area and the barrel are seperate. They already drilled two holes for the detents (if I am not mistaken.) Why not use that hole to house the eye?

it's a thought.

[Jack & Coke]

The eye hole cannot be the dent hole.

The eye hole has to be in alignment with the ball stack and closer to the bottom of the tube.