I have a ReTro valve with two o-rings in the on/off....serial number VV1711 if that helps.
ULE Trigger Kits in the Store!!
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ULE
Just wanted to say thanks AGD for releasing them, almost caught me by surprise on that one but saw it nice and early and ordered one yesterday. I have been dying to get one and can't wait to get my hands on it and give it a shot. Someone elaborating a little more about exactly why we're loctiting the pin to the thing instead of it coming like that just like the sear pin comes loctited into the sear, just so I don't screw it up trying to do it.
I also wanted to say that Marcia was extremely nice to talk to through email regarding a clarification on my order, she makes ordering from you guys enjoyable and easy. So give her a raise, a big one! She deserves it.
Feedback: http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...hreadid=105565
Feedback on EBAY under QUINCYMASSGUY
Good traders: paintcatcher, a few others
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Oh man! Just ordered one as well as a Y-grip. from now until that package comes I'm gonna be sitting out in my front yard with my marker, waiting for that "magical brown truck". LOL
This thing better be cool Tom!
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I've tried this on/off in a stock AIR valve and it does make the trigger incredibly light, but it is WAY too easy to short stroke. It will physically work, but buy at your own risk. I will not even bother answering questions about problems with the ULT in an AIR valve.
I will be putting up a thread about installation, tips and other information about the on/off hopefully before people start getting their kit from AGD. I do not recommend loctiting the pin. Just a bit of grease in the hole for the on/off pin bottom piece is all you need to keep the bottom piece from falling out when you put it in the valve.
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Does anyone one know when the classic valves switched to the two oring design? I have a '98 minimag and I want to keep the valve for sentimental reasons.
If it doesn't, i'll just wait to build a new mag when the xvalve comes standard w the ULE trigger and level 10 bolt.
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Kai
I had heard something about major shootdown with the ULT in a classic valve? Is this true, or no?Originally posted by BlackVCG
I've tried this on/off in a stock AIR valve and it does make the trigger incredibly light, but it is WAY too easy to short stroke. It will physically work, but buy at your own risk. I will not even bother answering questions about problems with the ULT in an AIR valve.
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i think that's just attributed to the high rof that the ult can achieve...
it won't actually cause shootdown...
it'll just make you fire so fast that the classic can't keep up
but anyway i think that was more of a theory than an actual result of testing or anything...
the major concern with classic valves is shortstroking...
sounds like it's like shooting a stock '97 cocker
TheDuelist "The problem is that Tom has developed the VW Beetle of the paintball industry. It's almost too good to change and far too reliable."
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I've seen videos of the classic valve doing 16bps with no shootdown. So I doubt the ULT will cause shootdown unless you can pull that fast. Although I don't know how the new on/off pin messes with the recharge rate of the valve. I'm assuming it's the same length and all?
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I'm guessing the answer to my question is yes, but i just want to make sure.
I have a classic valve right now but am going to upgrade to an x-valve in the near future. If the x-valves do not come stock with the ULT, am I able to take the one in my classic valve out, an put in the x? Just wondering. Thanks for you help.
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I'm looking forward to seeing someone install this mod and post a video of it in action. I'm still pretty skeptical about getting the ULT... For some reason I'm thinking more negative than postive about it.
UPGRADE YOUR GREY MATTER 'CAUSE 1 DAY IT MAY MATTER!!!

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I bought it because of the following quote direct from the ordering page:Originally posted by BlackVCG
Evil Bob- Why did you order one for your Classic RT? Unless you're getting it drilled, you're SOL.
Its entirely possible that the above quote is incorrect, but it looks like from the verbage that I'm fine with a classic RT.A couple things to watch out for. This only works on valves with two orings down in the bottom of the on/off hole. This means Classics, Xvalves and newer RTpros. It should not be used in Emags or Xmags because it reduces the rate of fire (the lighter pull doesn't pull the solenoid out as fast). The reactivity has been turned down in this upgrade so it's harder to bounce but EASIER to short stroke.
If it turns out that I need to have the valve modified, so be it, what's another $50 to have the valve drilled out?
-Evil Bob
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