Homemade Electric Cocker

[-=Squid=-]

I looked at that, and it gave me another noid model to go after if my mac craps out. Thanks.

[-=Squid=-]

Originally posted by xen_100
well for $15, go ahead and try it. just be aware, you will run into timing issues. I am not saying they are not fixable. just that you have to consider them and understand how to get around em.

your micro switch idea might work if you put the microswtich in a place so that is gets switched "on" before the end of the backward trigger stroke and stays on for a little while on the forward stroke of the trigger (so it is not just getting turned on, then instantly off like it would if the back of the trigger plate were hitting it....although I am not sure there is room in the trigger frame for this. it would be tricky to get it mounted in just the right spot too.)

I still say you wont get any increase in poerformance doing it this way. but it is always fun to tinker. hell I biult a cocker out of a spyder

I figgure an on off switch, wires, battery carrier, LED light for coolness, and a microswitch. Gonna stop at radio shack tomorrow. Im gonna put this in a swing trigger, and change the springs so it feels more like an electro, or a bit less like a cocker at least.

[-=Squid=-]

ok, well, I still have the noid, and I put all the hoses on it from the three way, and I kept the noid on my rainmaker. When I pull the RM trigger it cocks itself, and VERY quickly, but not so fast it would chop, so the noid idea worked. Now, I have to ship the RM off, so my problem is this. Do I need a board? Can I just wire the noid straight to a battery and micro switch, or will a board be absolutely necessary?

edit: since this cocker is going to my dad for christmas, im going to not mess with a spyder frame, and will save that for my cocker pgp. The benefits are more than most realize though. I can take the spring out of the hinge frame, and shorten and drop the sear a lot, and I never have to worry about shortstroking. Why dont more people do this??

[xen_100]

if you can get it timed, you my not have to. but I think you will run up against timing issues. if the back block is not allow a long enough time to get all the way back (cocking the gun) and then some amount of "open" time to let paint fall in, then close. (then you have to have a minimum closed time, or you will get blowback) if all those things are not considered, it will have problems.

these things are all handled by the 3-way on a totally mechanical cocker. ( the three way has some room for forward and reverse travel before it actuates one way or the other.) a micro switch will not have any of that travel.

I am not sure what you mean by "short and lower the sear alot" if you shorten the cycle of the gun too much it wont even fire. the hammer will get half way to the valve and it will already be cycling back to the cocked position. there is only so much that can be done with the timing and still have it function reliably every time.

[-=Squid=-]

I meant shorten the trigger and drop the sear. With the noid, all I have to worry about as far as function goes is the sear, and no longer a 3 way. Im not sure if the board had anything to do with it, but I had no timing issues either. We will find out tomorrow when I go to radioshack to get the parts I need. Same for walmart, where I will buy some JB weld, a crescent wrench, and terminator 3. I think this will work just fine.

EDIT: if removing the board causes timing problems, I Will just buy a used RM board for 10 bucks :)

[xen_100]

did try it with paint?

If you have the RM baord connected, then that is doing the timing for you. I think you will have problems, but wait and see I guess.

[-=Squid=-]

ok, I hooked everything up to the cocker. Well, it works, but only in open bolt. And after a bit of use, the noid and bat get very hot and stop working properly. Also, after a bit of use, the solenoid wont recock the gun for about 3 seconds. any tips on how to fix those problems? Especially the open bolt thing...

[xen_100]

more than likely the heat is the cause of the recocking issue. are you sure you are using the correct voltage for the noid? some of those operate at 5V. if you are giving 9V (for example) it will get hot.

as for the open bolt thing. can you give a better idea of the operation, step by step? I am not sure what you mean at this point.

[-=Squid=-]

on the noid, it says 3.0 watts and thats all I See about that. Im running a 9vt directly to it. So ya, how would I fix that? And when I say open bolt, I mean the back block is in the open posistion, then when I pull the trigger it closes. And its not the hoses...not real sure how to fix this one...

[xen_100]

you need to measure the noid coil. once you have the coil ohms, you can figure out what voltage you need to give it 3 watts.

P = V * I

are you still using hte RM board?

is this just a direct conection to the noid and the microswitch?

if you pull the trigger, does it cycle? (if it does, then you have the hoses on the noid wrong or the ram wrong. switch one of them and it will reverse the operation to closed bolt at rest.)

[xen_100]

another thing I just thought of. make sure that the noid is not actuated all the time. that will make it (and the battery) warm. it is designed to be pulsed, not on continuously.

also, remember that the operation of a RM and a cocker are NOT the same. A RM is not technically a closed bolt marker. and the RAM rests in the open postion and pulses(cycles) in the closed postion.

[-=Squid=-]

Its a direct connection, no board. I have tried switching hoses but it still operates only in open bolt. How do I know if its on all the time, and how do I make it "pulse" that paragraph seems important, but I dont really understand what you are saying.

[xen_100]

if you switch the hoses on the ram, it has to switch the direction the ram is in. if it doesn't you dont have something hooked up right. (does the ran move at all when you pull the trigger?, it is posible to connect the ram to noid so that both sides of the ram are aired up at the same time, this would prevent it from moving. make sure you dont have an exaust vent clogged on the noid)

an easy way to see if the noid is functioning correctly is to pull all the hoses off of it, except the air "in" hose. (this is the one from your pnuematic reg to the noid) turn the reg down so it just put out enough air to feel coming out of the the other barbs on the noid. then click your microswitch. you should be able to feel the air switch what hole the air is coming out of. if it doesn't, the noid is either not working, or it is hooked up wrong. (hopfully you havn't cooked it) the hole that the air is coming out of in the "rest" position should go to the front of the ram (nearest to the pump rod), and the hole that the air comes out of when you pull the trigger should go to the back of the ram (towards the front of the gun)

the easiest way to tell if the noid is powered all the time is to remove the power. if the noid clicks off and the air switches direction, then you have it wired wrong. (cause the noid should not be on all the time) as for the pulse part. again, you will need to biuld a board to get a true pulse (a nice short and controlable one anyway). but the micro switch is what you are using to get your pulse. it wont be as acurate as electronics, but it will work. you just want to make sure that you are wiring it so that the noid ONLY gets power when you are pushing the button on the microswitch, NOT all the time.

[-=Squid=-]

Thanks for all your help, but I am out of air. It will be saturday before I can work on it again. However, I have my microswitch fixed behind the trigger and all, and when I pull the trigger, it shoots paint and everything...but the bolt is back. I think I have tried switching hoses and it changed nothing, but I might have just taken them off and put them back on the same and not realized it. I will give you an update saturday, and thanks for all your help..

P.S. Good lord this thing is fast!

[WARPED1]

Let's see pics Squid boy!