Hypermags??

[Methylphenidate]

no dude what ive heard is that it wears that sear down wicked insane fast.
like every year the guys got to get a new saer.
but if someone can proove me wrong be my guest

[Timmee]

The wear issues are (IIRC) due to the solenoid on time. AGD uses a value of around 20-30 ms, whereas the Boo-Yaah and Hyperframes have a much shorter time. I'm not sure if the new 20BPS board is supposed to correct it, though.

[sneakyhacker420]

Originally posted by Timmee
The wear issues are (IIRC) due to the solenoid on time. AGD uses a value of around 20-30 ms, whereas the Boo-Yaah and Hyperframes have a much shorter time. I'm not sure if the new 20BPS board is supposed to correct it, though.

AGD boards are set at 25ms dwell, and hyperframes are set at 6ms dwell, but the ULT will help that by requiring less energy to trip the sear assembly, thus not putting as much strain on the solenoid with the already short dwell, and increasing battery life



ps: i've walked a ULT I-Frame doing 17bps

[GA Devil]

I bought my wife a hypermag with a classic valve. Its just the 13bps board and it still rocks. Real light trigger. We are going to upgrade her to the 20bps board here real soon. Battery life is fine.

[GhillieGuy]

I love my hypermag, i have owned it since the hyperframes first came out Sure you might have a few problems with it(like installing a LX into it) but its hella worth it. Iv'e got the 20 bps board and that rips, you can even shoot 20bps on F/A with the classic valve and it'll still shoot. I had an owners gruop awhile ago but it kinda died out.. thats a shame tho, search for it and maybee you can bring the thread back to life!

[striker]

So how much is this new board? And does it affect the trigger in any way? Where can I read about it?

Oh yeah, and I can technically walk my ULT, but I'll be short stroking like mad.

[Meph]

New boards are about $75.oo for a new board. If there's a trade in I don't know, but if there isn't expect the 75 number to come through.

As for affecting trigger.... I'll have to get one myself now. See how it affects the dwell if any at all (doubt it). Otherwise it'll just fire faster, shouldn't affect too much really.

[striker]

Sounds good, thanks for all the info!

[phantomhitman]

god news bad news
i spook with centerflag a few days back about buying a new board. a regular 13 bps board (full auto-burst-semi) is $98. a 20 bps semi is $120. rude awakening for me!!
i have to buy a new board for mine bc the old one is dead. I am going to wait until I get my x-valve and ult kit also so they can go ahead and tune the whole marker in for me (i know I am lazy). There are your prices.

[phantomhitman]

good news bad news
i spook with centerflag a few days back about buying a new board. a regular 13 bps board (full auto-burst-semi) is $98. a 20 bps semi is $120. rude awakening for me!!
i have to buy a new board for mine bc the old one is dead. I am going to wait until I get my x-valve and ult kit also so they can go ahead and tune the whole marker in for me (i know I am lazy). There are your prices.

[striker]

Wow, that's more than $75...

So, is there really much of a difference between the 13BPS board and the 20? Seems to me like I'll even have trouble reaching 13, let alone 20. Is it really that easy to shoot above 13 bps? wow...

[fancynapkin]

no, it isn't easy to reach 13. people blow the whole bps thing out of the water. that is some major bs when people think that they are shooting 20. get a watch and imagine 20 shots for every second. that is literally like one long tone. I had a link to this one trigger pulling game that measured your bps depending on how fast you can click your mouse and the highest I ever reached was 13, and most people think that I am pretty fast.

[hitech]

One of the biggest advantages to the new board is the ability to set the solenoid dwell. That allows you to avoid sear/bolt damage.

[striker]

Yeah, that makes sence, fancynapkin. The fasted I ever got sweet-spotting my RTP was 10, and that was more than fast enough.

But you've got me interested with the selenoid dwell. How would that help the sear chipping problem? And is it really that big of a problem? I read the Warpig article, and it sounded like all they needed was a touch longet on/off pin - which leads me to another question. I have the ULT right now, but I'm wondering how many shims I should use. I'm currently running 6 or 7, I can't recall. But would that effect things any? Thanks for the input.

[hitech]

The reason the sear/bolt wear faster on a hyperframe is because the sear is closed before the bolt returns. This causes the bolt to ride on the sear as it returns. Also, the bolt bounces when it hits the bumper. If the sear is closed it strikes the sear repeatedly as it bounces. All of this causes increased sear and bolt wear. BTW, I suggest (as does Centerflag) using an RT/eMag bumper instead of the blue classic bumper. Even on a classic valve with a hyperframe.

The chipped bolts are from having an on/off pin that is too short. The sear doesn't engage the bolt fully and the edge fails (chips). This is a big problem if the on/off is the wrong length. Also, getting the right length can be a problem. In my classic valve, the short pin was too short and the long pin was too long. The ULT will solve the on/off pin length problem. Adjust it as specified and it should work fine when the hyperframe is attached.

It appears that the "offerings" from Centerflag have changed. I don't know what they have changed. The 20bps fullauto board had adjustable dwell times. That is very important in my opinion. Maybe I'll call Centerflag and find out what has changed.

Here is my Hyperframe FAQ. It was information on "tuning" the hyperframe. BTW, the "trigger job" will make a HUGE difference.