I have a question/suggestion for the Warp board. I for one run my Warp off of my EMag battery. I had to make a regulator for it to work properly. Since the new board has the 12V regulator built in, will there be any problem running the Warp from the EMag battery with the new board?
New Warpfeed electronics
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WickedAirSportz
I made the power input pretty versatile.
There are 4 contacts (see picture), labeled +|-|+|-.
The unit will come with two 9v battery clips, each using a pair of contacts (+|-). The center two contacts (-|+) are connected together (to make the two batteries in series). So, if you wanted to just put up to 35 volts to the outer two contacts (+| | |-), that would work fine.
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Jim, not another power source. My packs can handle a rev, warp, and gun with no problem, so slapping one in the Warp and running everything from there is easy. The problem is when i run a gun board off the same battery, and try to intellifeed it using a positive signal. Instant short curcuit. :-/
C'Mon, there has to be some way to do it nice and cheap...
"The Fine Print: Discontinue use if your eyeballs suddenly get way smaller."
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WickedAirSportz - Just a follow-up so I'm sure I understand correctly... when I use just a 12V regulator to reduce the emag voltage from the battery and connect the input to the Warp (with the Intellifeed cable), the Warp runs constatnly. I had to follow RobAGD's advice and use a couple of capacitors to condition the line. Will I have this problem with your board?
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WickedAirSportz
No, you will not have this problem. Only one person has commented on the resistor that I added accross the cap on the stock board (this limits the R/C circuit and prevents the constant running).
I designed this board to accept up to 35 volts. So you could run your eMag's battery pack directly to the board. When the TurboWarp is on, it uses about 10ma of current, which is unavoidable due to the current regulation loading. This is substantially less than the stock board's idle current consumption.
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Thanks for the quick responses. This board sounds really great.
Will there be any problem with using the Micro switch that many of us aleady have installed on our Warps?
What type of processor is on the TurboWarp board?
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WickedAirSportz
You don't use a microswitch. The prime button is also the on/off and programming button.
The microprocessor is a PIC w/nanowatt technology.
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Hey Jim,
two sugestions.
Install a connector on the battery inputs of the board and then supply the harnes with the opposite sex of the connector. this would allow us to the replace the harness quickly without soldering if the wires rip off right before a tourney persay. Also, you can supply two different types of 9v clips. Allied Electronics sells a nice fiber serial strap that is cheap. That is what I use (prevents even more possible bad joints or broken wires.
You could also have an intellifeed output of the board that you can use for your hopper, if your fets can handle the current. (the transistors AGD used have no problem with this) Maybe a micro-mini connector like the warp/emag interface. just an idea.
Love the mod though
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WickedAirSportz
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Jim, Theres is a thread in the tech section labeled all abou the warp feed. I posted alot of stuff about the jumpers but you should post there because some people just cant comprehend the jumpers or they cant get the gun to work right or its used.
Also theres one person that wants to intelifeed his Impulse. I saw on your site that you will be offering an Impulse board with Intelifeed. So you could sell that there too.All your farm animals are belong to us.
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Would it be possible to have a reverse prime switch? Here in FL. paintballs tend to swell quite a bit. Sometimes when this happens and the warp has pressure on the output stack, the ball on deck is pushed partially into the breech of my Emag. Everytime I try to fire the Level X kicks in (which is cool). In order to get it working properly I have to remove the Warp feed tube and remove the ball in the breech. It'd be really nice to have a button that would spin the warp backward enough to relieve the pressure on the stack so I wouldn't have to fumble with removing the tube on the field.
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WickedAirSportz
I thought about the reverse option, but it adds a lot more cost to the product, and takes up a lot of space on the PCB. Instead of a single MOSFET to drive the motor, you would need 4 of them, along with 4 diodes, and 3 more resistors.
I am probably going to have to change the PIC I am using... the one I selected appears to be the only one where problems were recently documented about frequency stability. We are not making a watch here, but 10% variation in the frequency is enough to cause problems even for simple timers needed to control the speed and such. Ugh.
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Willystyle21
Hell 30 bucks for this mod is a great price to bad I spent about as much trying to get a 12vdc mod to work correctly in my warp. I would love some information about when this will hit the market or hey if you are feeling good about charity send me one. I'll test it into the ground for you.
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Charity???? Youre in the bloody Air Force you flippin pansy, you dont need any charity! And for the love of god, do some freakin PT! I could use a charitably donated warp board though...
BTW... J/K, we Army types would be lost without your CAS and woefully inaccurate weather reports. Well ok, just the CAS, youre weather reports suck too.
Kosmo For President '08, '12, '16... However long it takes
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sign me up!!!
assuming these are reasonably priced (30-50) i will be wanting 4 of them! (edited becuase i just read your WAS forums)
thanks
brandonLast edited by zabbu; 07-27-2003, 12:25 PM.Proud owner of a 98 Eclipse cocker with Eblade, and soon to be warped!
If you get bored AIM ME!
zabbux
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