AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
. That tree and feince sure has taken a beating from me, but hey it's the NorthWest and it should rain here in another 5 minutes to wash it all away so the evidence will be gone.
rogue did a great job when he made those babies. Just don't sand down your halo neck and you'll be fine. Mine slides around just a hair cause it has a sanded neck, but my other halo fits really snug in it. If you have an egg or your hopper slides around then spend the extra $20+ to get one and you'll love it.
it's a custom made blade trigger for the hyperframe. It came with it when I bought it. I did a little filing to give it some movement and I did a switch mode like HiTech did in his hyperframe thread and it works great as you can see.
Also I just noticed that I'm faster with my left hand then my right. Guess thats a good thing.
I'm having a hard time making up my mind between the Dmag upgrade and tht 20 bps board. I'll most likely end up getting the 20 bps board just because the dmag upgrade is $250
What is it like without the switch mod? Is the switch mod hard to do? Is it worth it?
mark_1791: sorry dude the forum didn't email me to tell me that somone posted on this tread. I got the 10" stiffi from a guy on the forum. Traded some parts for it and a spyder. The 20bps upgrade is $100 plus a few bucks shipping from Centerflag. There are 2 great advantages for doing the 20bps upgrade. 1 is that it's professionally installed and tuned by the guys that invented the hyperframe. 2 is that you get to keep your 13bps board which you can sell and make back a good chunk of the money you send on the new board. I traded my 13bps board for a HaloB so there are people that want them out there. Also you can even put a spyder board in the hyperframe with some work and get it up to 30bps with a T-Board. I'd say send your hyperframe (assuming you have one) into centerflag and pay the $100. They can install a lighter switch and make it nice and fast. I personally did the mod on my switch before even seeing HiTech's thread about it. Its really easy and if you mess up then you can get a new switch at Radio Shack for really cheap. Just need to know how to soder or wrap the wires back on to the switch without buring it out. I can help you if you need it.
Automaggot68: what about the internals? It's basically just an automag rail with stock sear and pin that is getting worn down from all the shooting, but it's all milled out by Luke so it's majorly light. Lighter then any other rail I've ever had. Still as strong though.
Well cool. I think everyone should look into getting a hyperframe. As long as you don't get a lemon one then you should be good.
I have no idea how light the rail is. I've had Rogue ULE rails that are milled fully through to the other side and this rail is still lighter cause it's an Automag rail so it already has less meat on it then an RT rail. Those shadow rails are nice though. It's just that the Hyperframe likes rails with the wings on it instead of rt flat rails. The pictures in the first post show it on a Luke milled RT rail with snatchgrip built in. In the video its on a Luke ULE milled AM/MM rail and I've found it to work better on the rail with the wings. It will work on a RT rail just fine, but I just found it easier to work with a rail with wings.
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