Originally posted by Butterfingers
Ok I guess I can reveal all since there are no ethics in paintball anymore and somehow in the course of paintball history ramping to full auto is now allowed.... So heres some clues so you can pretty easily figure it out.
1) Parts that are not made any more. There is a small diffrence in the internals of the current X-valve and the internals of the Old ReTro valve. It has to do with the On/Off chamber. The ReTro valve has one less 0-ring and is internally identical to the original RT. Some early production E-mag valves also have this feature. It is impossible to convert modern generation valves because the metal was milled away. This feature does not increase reacivity persay but it makes sure tolerances stay tight because it is alot harder to compress stainless steel than it is urethane.
2) The quad-o-ring. You put it in the afformentioned chamber. Keep in mind that the first gen e-mag used a .725 pin (aluminum topped on/off) before switching to a .712. Try both with the 0-ring to see what works.
3) The on-off pin. Centerflag used to ship a hyperstepped on/off pin with thier origninal hyperframes along with a smaller 0-ring. You can make your own out of a normal RT pin but its a pain in the arse and you need to find a super tight o-ring. Place these items in the original AGD RT on/off assy shaved to the appropriate length as mentioned above.
4) A good trigger frame.
5) Fulcrum point of the on/off assy. This does not need to be changed but it helps slightly. You will need to drill a hole for the trigger rod assy higher in the sear. You will need carbide bits. You will break steel bits, you will break cobalt bits, you will break titanium bits this thing is hard.
6) The most important thing is a high flowing airsystem. Reacitvity is not only affected by PSI but also by flow and recharge rate of your airsystem. Find a good one. The best one I have found isnt made anymore and will never be made anymore. The second best one I have played with isnt made anymore and will never be made anymore. The third best one I found is made by nazis.
1) Parts that are not made any more. There is a small diffrence in the internals of the current X-valve and the internals of the Old ReTro valve. It has to do with the On/Off chamber. The ReTro valve has one less 0-ring and is internally identical to the original RT. Some early production E-mag valves also have this feature. It is impossible to convert modern generation valves because the metal was milled away. This feature does not increase reacivity persay but it makes sure tolerances stay tight because it is alot harder to compress stainless steel than it is urethane.
2) The quad-o-ring. You put it in the afformentioned chamber. Keep in mind that the first gen e-mag used a .725 pin (aluminum topped on/off) before switching to a .712. Try both with the 0-ring to see what works.
3) The on-off pin. Centerflag used to ship a hyperstepped on/off pin with thier origninal hyperframes along with a smaller 0-ring. You can make your own out of a normal RT pin but its a pain in the arse and you need to find a super tight o-ring. Place these items in the original AGD RT on/off assy shaved to the appropriate length as mentioned above.
4) A good trigger frame.
5) Fulcrum point of the on/off assy. This does not need to be changed but it helps slightly. You will need to drill a hole for the trigger rod assy higher in the sear. You will need carbide bits. You will break steel bits, you will break cobalt bits, you will break titanium bits this thing is hard.
6) The most important thing is a high flowing airsystem. Reacitvity is not only affected by PSI but also by flow and recharge rate of your airsystem. Find a good one. The best one I have found isnt made anymore and will never be made anymore. The second best one I have played with isnt made anymore and will never be made anymore. The third best one I found is made by nazis.
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