70 pounds to go.

[jsdatjsd]

Thank you everyone for your answers to my questions in the "back after 7 years" post.

Now that I have decided on a marker, I have some more specific questions, and a couple of answers.

Im not 5'2", btw. Im 5'9". My ideal body weught with 15% body fat mass is 172.5.


OK.

1) Im not a beginner, but a returner. I play the sides. I keep low, and look for aimed shots.
2) Don't worry about mask advice. I used to own a JT spectra, when it first came out with thermal lenses. It was big enough for my bug-eye glasses then, and I have lower profile glasses now. I will try the current masks on at a shop befire I buy.
3) IM NOT BUYING USED. I know there are perfectly good markers for sale on ebay, etc. But I want to minimize the chance of getting a bum gun. Im willing to spend the balance of my budget on making sure the gun is in perfect condition.


Ok. Now for the serious questions:

1) Pro classic or minimag?
.........Which one will be supported longer?
.........Which one is better? (I don't mean to start a fight, just want opinions)
.........Uh, they cost *about* the same new
.........Can they both take the level 10 bolt?





2) Level 10, or no level 10?
I can afford a level 10, on a new mag classic pro, or a minimag, installed factory.
I have read that installing it is tricky. I don't want tricky. If the factory installs and tests it for me, what are the chances I will have to fool with it later? Am I better off with the stock bolt, rather then the level 10?

3) WHat exactly, are the advantages of a level 10? Everyone says they are awesome, but never give a specific mechanical reason. Just "it shoots better and doesn't chop paint"

4) How hard is it to get barrels for an automag? Few online shops sell mag barrels. Im bummed, but not discouraged. I used to own a J&J for my spyder, and it was a good barrel. Is J&J still good? They are driving distance to my house, so I would have a definite advantage of being able to hop over there and check out the current line of products.

5) If I feel so inclined, I can later switch to HPA, right?

6) DO i need hpa for level 10?

Um, I had more questions, but I forgot what they were. Hmmmm.......

Oh yeah, here it is.

WHAT THE HECK IS AN INTELLIFRAME? DO I get that too?

Im of the opinion that my latent god-like painball skills will be more important than the marker, but it never hurts to tip the balance further in my favor. What good does the intelligrip do? It sounds electronic. I don't like electronic. I will play on muddy field, and I hate batteries.

BTW, my local stomping grounds will be splatter park in OHIO, Im pretty sure.

Well, have fun with the latest set of questions.

Thanks!

JD

[minimag03]

1) I would go with whatever body you like best. There really isn't a difference bewteen the two. The Minimag will have 4 stars while the Pro Classic *might* only have one. Each star represents a time you can send it to AGD for repair for free. Both can use the level 10.

2) I have it factory installed. It might get tricky later, but by then you will know enough about your mag to fix it on your own.

3) The level 10 prevents chops by "pinching" a ball. It does this by slower the bolt down when it first starts moving. (it's hard to explain) Because this the level 10 is easier on paint.

4) You can find lots of barrels. Most companies don't make them anymore, but they still have old stock left over. That old stock is sually VERY cheap. I have a Dye Boomstick back that I would sell for next to nothing, all you would need to do is buy a tip. send me a Private Message if you are interested.

5) Yes. Switch to HPA if you want less problems.

6) Nope

7) a Intelliframe is a double trigger frame made by AGD. It made of aluminum, unlike the plastic (gasp!) stock frame. You can mount a switrch in it and wire it to your Revolution hopper or Warpfeed to make it spin everytime you pull the trigger.

I think that sums it up. Let me know if I missed anything.

[jsdatjsd]

Ok, really silly question.

It seems that AGD has moved to use cocker barrel threads for the newer products.

Whay don't they sell the classic pro with cocker threads?

THis means that if I want to have a larger barrel range (and I may now know what i am talking about, the stock barrel may be just as good as an aftermarket for al I know) I need a new body.

Also, will any new body fir the classic/pro?

Tanks!

JD

[stop whining buy a mag]

Things get really complicated when discussing the Classic valves, Minimags, Automags, the different bodies, and C02 vs HPA.

Things would be much more simple if you increased your budget a little more and picked up a Tac-One. By doing this you have gotten an X-Valve with Level Ten already installed, an aluminum body with Autococker threads, an Intelliframe, and a nice foregrip. Oh yeah, and you get a nice 2 piece J&J barrel.

Then all you will have to do is get an HPA tank (X-Valves can only run on HPA) and a decent hopper such as a 12 Volt Revolution.

The way you are looking at going right now is more of a money pit than anything else when buying new. Contact Tunaman on getting hooked up with a nice RT Pro or Tac One.

[topazpaintball]

Things get really complicated when discussing the Classic valves, Minimags, Automags, the different bodies, and C02 vs HPA.

Things would be much more simple if you increased your budget a little more and picked up a Tac-One. By doing this you have gotten an X-Valve with Level Ten already installed, an aluminum body with Autococker threads, an Intelliframe, and a nice foregrip. Oh yeah, and you get a nice 2 piece J&J barrel.

Then all you will have to do is get an HPA tank (X-Valves can only run on HPA) and a decent hopper such as a 12 Volt Revolution.

The way you are looking at going right now is more of a money pit than anything else when buying new. Contact Tunaman on getting hooked up with a nice RT Pro or Tac One.

Correct me if I'm mistaken, but a ULE body costs less than a Tac1? Unless you're into the military look, a ULE body will provide cocker threads for cheaper

[cowboy_00]

I would suggest the same (beg your wifey if its needed) but a new RTpro or Tac one has Everything your looking for stock, except the HPA which is rather cheap and will drastically increase your markers usability, (in terms of speed and velocity spikes and etc.)

If you dont like batteries at all you can set your marker up the way a teammate of mine did.

(Grelvires mag)

Its a Tac one with a Qbow kit from Spec ops (the Qbow isnt really necassary you can pipe it anyway you want.) but its completely battery free and shoots at about 22-23 bps with 1200 psi input (HPA)

[stop whining buy a mag]

Correct me if I'm mistaken, but a ULE body costs less than a Tac1? Unless you're into the military look, a ULE body will provide cocker threads for cheaper

Correct but with the Tac One or RT Pro you are also getting the X-Vavle with Level Ten, Intelliframe and Bicycle Foregrip. The Tac-One or RT Pro makes more sense when buying new.

I'm just trying to save you some money.

[cowboy_00]

If you go with an RTULE you get The ULE body (cocker threads)
Dye Xcel barrel
Intelli frame (which correct me if im wrong, is a mech frame that can be made electronic with the addition of a board and such, but is primarily mech)
foregrip and everything for 496$

you'd need a 100$ HPA tank a 40$ revvy and a mask.

Buying a minimag or classic is just handicapping yourself as you try to upgrade later
The RT ULE is light and fast. while still being Mech.

[shorty24]

Or...



Available from here .

/my .02, and would definately save money in the long run. Plus it comes w/ the Xvalve and tuned lvl10.

[jsdatjsd]

all there little voices in my foru....er...head

Wow all there little voices in my foru....er...head keep telling me to upgrade to a tac one.

Is a tac one battery operated?

Also, can't I swap my classic body for a ULE or a tac body later?

Is the Reactive trigger on the tac one legal on all fields?

I used an auto at one point, and went thru less paint then my brother who used a pump. I also pegged more people out than he did. I don't think I need to dump 10 rounds a second. I don't want to dump ten rounds a second. PLEASE, someone tell me that recball still has some degree of skill left in the game.....

OOh, hey, is the J&J barrel wit hthe tact one a good barrel? (silly question, all JJ barrels used to be good, I assume they still are)

As for the money pit, I may be able to push the budget, but it all depends on the wife's mood that month.

And YES, I wear the pants in my house. My wife gave me permission.

;-D

-JD

[zackzel]

Wow all there little voices in my foru....er...head keep telling me to upgrade to a tac one.

Is a tac one battery operated?

Also, can't I swap my classic body for a ULE or a tac body later?

Is the Reactive trigger on the tac one legal on all fields?
PLEASE, someone tell me that recball still has some degree of skill left in the game.

OOh, hey, is the J&J barrel wit hthe tact one a good barrel? (silly question, all JJ barrels used to be good, I assume they still are)

Tac one is not battery operated unless you get the etac

You can swap your classic for the tac body or ule body later no problem, its quite a simple install you just need to drive the barrel lock out of the rail with a good hammer or mallot

The trigger reactivness depends on your setup if you have an adjustable tank you can make the trigger as reactive as you want, or have no reactivity at all.

It depends where you play as to what skill is in recball, but yes most places still involve skill

I like J&J barrels but in my opinion your best bet is to buy a dye ultralite .688 or .692 they just rock. And you can find brand new twist lock ultralites for like 30 bucks if you look hard enough.

[jsdatjsd]

So, are you implying that DYE is a good brand?

[jsdatjsd]

Man.....

Now Im looking at a tac one..........


Ok, what parts do I need besides a HPA cannister to get it working?

Or if I order the $30 hose kit installe,d can I just screww on a tank?

I mean, If I get a tac one, and one afttermarket barrel, it could be years before I need to upgrade anything.

Oh yeah, Im skipping the whole halo/qloader thing. Thats just asking for several hundred dollars that isn't strictly necessary, and can be added easier later than say, a new valve or body.


Also, do I need a feed tube adapter for my hopper? I remember when I got my spyder, and I bought a 200 round hopper, they didn't exactly fit. I broke a $5 neck trying ot make it fit, and ended up getting the "right one" later on.

ALso, another simple yet stupid question, which squeegee for the tac one?

So, correct me if im wrong, but:

1) Tac one: $450
2) Hose & air adapter kit installed: $30
3) HPA tank (new) $80
4) Hopper: $5.00
5) THat freaking adapter that will connect my hopper to the marker that nooneever mentions until you are at the field trying it out for the first time: $5
6) Harness pack and a bunch 'o tubes: $30
7) squeegee: $10
8) Barrel: Forget it. I will go stock until my latent god-like paintballing capabiliteis demand a better barrel.
9) Mask: $80
8) Can of coke: $0.60

Total: $690.60

Add 125 for a season pass and access to less pricey "premium" paint at the local painball park, and my entry fees are hitting $850 for my first day of paintball.

Perhaps, just perhaps, this is possible.

Or i could get the classic, no extras, and play it until I know what I want to spend more money on.

Pricing like this:

1) Classic/Pro Mag: $229
2) CO2 tank: $25
3) Antisiphon: I am hoping to avoid this. No level 10, I never shot more than 2-3 shots a second, and never more then 2-3 bursts at a time. I really hope it isn't necessary.
4) harness and a bunch 'o tubes: $30
5) Mask: $80
6) THat freaking adapter that will connect my hopper to the marker that nooneever mentions until you are at the field trying it out for the first time: $5
7) squeegee: $10
8) Hopper $5.00
9) Barrel: deferred


Total: $484.60

FIrsrt day back paint, and year long membership: 125 + 35 = 160

All told: $644.60


So, for $200 ovewr the classic, I could get the tac body, cocker threads, intelligrip, hpa, level 10, and the 2 part JJ barrel (which someone said sucks, but hey, someone with my latent god-like skills will easily compensate)


So......


Maybe I will just go to walmart and get a PMI for thirty bucks...


HA HA HA HA HA....


Just joking.

Im leaning toward the tac. Defintely leaning toward the tac.


Ok, I have a plan.

After I lose the weigh, I buy the gun, then I tell my wife. Forgiveness is easier than permission.

Now.....I hunt for photos...........


Thanks eceryone for your assistance!!!

-JD

[minimag03]

Dye makes a very nice barrel. They are about as good as you can get.

[minimag03]

Unless you really like the looks of the Tac One, the mag the person posted from themagsmith.com is a better deal. Also, Don't use a gravity hopper. All you really need to do is buy a Revolution. I have chopped with level 10 because I was using a gravity hopper.