How do you make a boardless electro?

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  • iambored
    I dare YOU to think!
    • Jul 2006
    • 463

    #1

    How do you make a boardless electro?

    I've recencty heard of a boardless electro custom and think you would need a battery, microswicth, and noid but you need something to link the switch to to make the noid operate.
    Any ideas?
  • CKY_Alliance
    Team Deranged
    • Jan 2005
    • 1695

    #2
    when i saw this i was like wtf..thats the dumbest thing ive heard..then i thought about it and i guess if you wanted to just shoot semi and powered the micro switch then it may be possible..im not to savvy in this department..

    Comment

    • Shingo
      The Solar Powered Cat
      • Oct 2001
      • 335

      #3
      Sure it's doable... the board is basically a switch with some extras.

      hook up the battery to the noid using some wires and use a microswitch to break and trigger the circuit.

      Easy.

      Comment

      • Pneumagger
        I like 'Mags.

        • Jun 2006
        • 3556

        #4
        You'll need some other small things to create a "Pulse Width" in the noid. This is basically dwell. Without it your dwell will be about 1ms and not shoot anything. Not tough to do at all with the right small electrical compnents. Should cost you a few cents for them too.

        Comment

        • 1337caesar
          Da 1337 Machine
          • Apr 2005
          • 238

          #5
          yeah, i could send you all the components you need for 1c plus shipping

          best way i can think of would be a simple inverter with a R/C delay, you could get semi, 2 shot and 3 shot burst on the same chip too if you really want to.

          Comment

          • RRfireblade

            • Jun 2002
            • 5103

            #6
            Problem is without a tight control of the dwell your battery life will be quite poor and the life of the 'niod will be substantially redused.


            You finger will keep the 'niod "on" for like a 50 times longer than it needs to be.
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            • fullofpaint
              Registered User
              • Apr 2005
              • 334

              #7
              didn't the super nova work like that?

              Comment

              • Arstron
                fusionowners.org

                • Mar 2005
                • 2347

                #8
                Look into a 555 or 556 timmer chips. It might not be exactly what you want, but it would help a ton for what you are wanting.

                Comment

                • jenarelJAM
                  Club Coordinator
                  • Dec 2004
                  • 1611

                  #9
                  Why wouldn't you use a capacitor? Battery charges capacitor, you hit the switch, Capacitor now hooked up to a new circuit inclusing the noid. Bam, gun shoots. Trigger released, capacitor switched back to battery circuit, charges...

                  I don't understand all that about dwell... I wouldn't think of making a boardless emag, but for a spyder, I don't think you need to worry about dwell or anything, just hit the pancake solenoid and it releases the bolt... etc...
                  you know you play this game too much when the neighbors stop fixing their broken windows...
                  :shooting: :cuss:

                  Comment

                  • Joni
                    Registered User
                    • Nov 2003
                    • 942

                    #10
                    I think I read somewhere that someone had experimented with simple timers (i.e 555), but the problem was that dwell fluctuated due to temperature and other external variables.

                    This wouldn't be as much of a problem on a simple sear tripper though... just remember that debounce has to be incorporated as well.


                    ULE RT Custom

                    Red ULE body
                    ULT
                    Electric Logic vert frame

                    Comment

                    • Tim Taylor
                      More Power
                      • Feb 2003
                      • 177

                      #11
                      While a capacitor is necessary for providing enough juice to activate the solenoid. The problem is charging the capacitor takes less than 1 millisecond, much faster than you can pull and release the trigger. That charge, release, fire cycle is typically controlled by a chip.

                      Without a chip the trigger is pulled, charges the cap then fires the solenoid. It takes maybe 15 to 20 milliseconds to activate and release the solenoid. Even at 15 BPS you are only charging releasing at more than 66 milliseconds. With the solenoid being activated so long there is significant heat created (that's a bad thing for a coil).

                      For what a board costs it's not worth the trouble building something. Even if the parts are uner a $ each by the time you get it working right and find the right combination you will have spent more than if you would have bought the board.

                      Comment

                      • jenarelJAM
                        Club Coordinator
                        • Dec 2004
                        • 1611

                        #12
                        I don't understand your explaination... If what you say about it only taking 1ms to charge a capacitor is true... that should make it really easy...

                        Phase 1: Trigger unpressed, battery connected to capacitor, capacitor charging
                        Phase 2: Trigger is pulled, 3way switch in trigger disconnects capacitor from battery, reconnects capacitor to alternate circuit including solenoid.
                        Phase 3: solenoid activates, marker fires, capacitor energy expended, no net flow of charge
                        Phase 4: Trigger is released, 3way switch switches "empty" capacitor back to battery circuit
                        Phase 5: Trigger is unpressed, battery connected to capacitor, capacitor charging.

                        I don't know what you were reffering to when you said 15-20 ms and 66ms, please be more clear, I'm interested, and I don't know much about electronics... so feel free to tell me I'm wrong.

                        And I've had to replace the capacitor on a spyder board before, it's about $1, and All you would need is a 3way switch, a few wires, a capacitor, a pancake solenoid, and a soldering iron(and solder).I'm assuming that you could just solder the 3way and pancake solenoid to the inside of the trigger frame without any extensive milling or whatever. Or you could find like... a $20 old e-spyder and rip the board out.
                        you know you play this game too much when the neighbors stop fixing their broken windows...
                        :shooting: :cuss:

                        Comment

                        • RRfireblade

                          • Jun 2002
                          • 5103

                          #13
                          As been said , it's as simple as it sounds and it works. THe problem is your slow finger speed will burn out the 'niod much sooner and kill the battery much faster. That's why no production marker being made , no matter how cheap , functions that way.

                          Just go buy a used E- Spyder/PMI/Etc anything for like $50 and use that board and 'niod and be done with it.

                          No guess work needed.
                          Logic Paintball Forums
                          My A O Feedback Here
                          Other Feedback Here
                          If I've Been Any help
                          Please Leave Some. :)

                          Comment

                          • jenarelJAM
                            Club Coordinator
                            • Dec 2004
                            • 1611

                            #14
                            Wait, but I'm interested...
                            I don't get why it burns out. I don't know much about electronics, but why would the battery run out faster? there is no current once the capacitor is charged, so there shouldn't be a lot of energy lost, and the battery is completely disconnected when the capacitor is attacked to the 'noid. Please explain this, the only electronics I know is fron physics, so It's limited, but I might want to build this sometime... I like to tinker.
                            you know you play this game too much when the neighbors stop fixing their broken windows...
                            :shooting: :cuss:

                            Comment

                            • Lenny
                              I AM the AO famous!
                              • Dec 2003
                              • 1628

                              #15
                              Originally posted by jenarelJAM
                              Wait, but I'm interested...
                              I don't get why it burns out. I don't know much about electronics, but why would the battery run out faster? there is no current once the capacitor is charged, so there shouldn't be a lot of energy lost, and the battery is completely disconnected when the capacitor is attacked to the 'noid. Please explain this, the only electronics I know is fron physics, so It's limited, but I might want to build this sometime... I like to tinker.
                              Basically, without a board regulating how much of a charge the solenoid gets, your finger will make the solenoid activated longer than nessessary. Remember, we're talking nanoseconds here. Human fingers are nowhere near as fast as the solenoid would need, thus we turn to a board.

                              Cahoots?
                              Autocockers are the greatest markers ever made.
                              ~The greatest BACKUP markers to AUTOMAGS!!

                              Only temporary, get'n a new sig soon.

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