Basicly what Lenny said is, the board limits the solenoid to only opening to a certain amount of time (dwell), will say 15ms (although all boards are diffrent). Your fingers when pulling the trigger and triggering the micro switch will keep the switch on for a much longer period of time, lets say 100 ms. Without a board, the solenoid will stay on for as long as the trigge is pulled which would be like running a board at 100 ms. Powering the noid for such a long period of time per trigger pull is what will kill the solenoid and battery. Does that help?
How do you make a boardless electro?
Collapse
X
-
I get what you're saying now... but couldn't you get around that by choosing a capcitor with a high voltage but not alot of charge? That way it fires the solenoid, but then runs out of energy and the solenoid isn't overloaded for long periods of time. Even if your finger is pressing the trigger and the capacitoris still connected to the circuit, it wouldn't have any energy left to put a strain on the 'noid.
Comments?you know you play this game too much when the neighbors stop fixing their broken windows...
:shooting: :cuss:
Comment
-
Is my English so bad I need a translator?Originally posted by ArstronBasicly what Lenny said is, the board limits the solenoid to only opening to a certain amount of time (dwell), will say 15ms (although all boards are diffrent). Your fingers when pulling the trigger and triggering the micro switch will keep the switch on for a much longer period of time, lets say 100 ms. Without a board, the solenoid will stay on for as long as the trigge is pulled which would be like running a board at 100 ms. Powering the noid for such a long period of time per trigger pull is what will kill the solenoid and battery. Does that help?
/sarcasm
Very well put. That is what I was trying to say. After re-reading my post, yours makes much more sense. Thanks.
Autocockers are the greatest markers ever made.
~The greatest BACKUP markers to AUTOMAGS!!
Only temporary, get'n a new sig soon.
Comment
-
Doesn't really matter , a Cap is constantly trying to take and release a charge any time current is available (trigger pulled).Originally posted by jenarelJAMI get what you're saying now... but couldn't you get around that by choosing a capcitor with a high voltage but not alot of charge? That way it fires the solenoid, but then runs out of energy and the solenoid isn't overloaded for long periods of time. Even if your finger is pressing the trigger and the capacitoris still connected to the circuit, it wouldn't have any energy left to put a strain on the 'noid.
Comments?Logic Paintball Forums
My A O Feedback Here
Other Feedback Here
If I've Been Any help
Please Leave Some. :)
Comment
-
No harm intended, I just wanted to give a visual of what was happening.Originally posted by LennyIs my English so bad I need a translator?
/sarcasm
Very well put. That is what I was trying to say. After re-reading my post, yours makes much more sense. Thanks.
Dont forget, even though the energy in the cap is low, it will still be recieving the same amount of energy from the battery, which will still keep the coils in the solenoid activated.Originally posted by RRfirebladeDoesn't really matter , a Cap is constantly trying to take and release a charge any time current is available (trigger pulled).
*edit, I just realized you was saying the same thing, I completly misread your post, sorry!*
iambored or anyone else, dont let people that say it cant be done stop you from trying. You can learn a lot by simply doing a project by your self. Rember, if you build a frame that works with just a solenoid, capacitor, switch, and battery and it doesnt work, all you have to do is add a board to the mix and you still have a custom electronic trigger frame. You will learn a lot along the way as well as have a ton of fun (if you enjoy somthing like this). If anyone is wanting to do this contact me, I think I have a couple of old electronic spyder type frames that I can sell pretty cheap.Last edited by Arstron; 09-18-2006, 07:37 PM.
Comment
-
Where is the current available from? the battery should be disconnected from the capacitor while the trigger is pulled... capacitor switches between two completely separate circuits. Battery circuit "loads" the capacitor, 'noid circuit "unloads" the capacitor...Originally posted by RRfirebladeDoesn't really matter , a Cap is constantly trying to take and release a charge any time current is available (trigger pulled).
I feel like I'm missing something elementary and you guys are all laughing cause I'm not getting it...you know you play this game too much when the neighbors stop fixing their broken windows...
:shooting: :cuss:
Comment
-
How is anything 'disconneted' ?
When the trigger is pulled , the battery supplies current to the 'niod. Whether or not you use a Cap inline doesn't change that. Similatanious to the Caps discharge to the 'niod is the Cap recharge from the battery. The battery is constantly supplying current to the Cap and then to the 'niod which is continually energized with the trigger pulled.Logic Paintball Forums
My A O Feedback Here
Other Feedback Here
If I've Been Any help
Please Leave Some. :)
Comment
-
Just thinking here, but what if you used a relay? It could be setup to stop the energy going from the battery to cap and to allow the energy in the cap to go to the solenoid. Of course deciding on what size cap would give you how much dwell would be a pain in the butt.
Comment
-
Sure , that's what a 'board' acts as.
Seriously tho , you just need to add a timer curcuit like a 555 or something.Logic Paintball Forums
My A O Feedback Here
Other Feedback Here
If I've Been Any help
Please Leave Some. :)
Comment
-
That's what I was thinking of, I just didn't know what it was called.Originally posted by ArstronJust thinking here, but what if you used a relay? It could be setup to stop the energy going from the battery to cap and to allow the energy in the cap to go to the solenoid. Of course deciding on what size cap would give you how much dwell would be a pain in the butt.
Like this:

Please excuse the poor quality... Microsoft Paint...you know you play this game too much when the neighbors stop fixing their broken windows...
:shooting: :cuss:
Comment
-
Try it.
It is sometimes better to experiment to learn things.
Good luck and buy plenty of batteries and Noids!
Comment
-
I don't see why this would not work for uncapped semiauto, as long as the capacitor is choosen correctly.Originally posted by jenarelJAMI don't understand your explaination... If what you say about it only taking 1ms to charge a capacitor is true... that should make it really easy...
Phase 1: Trigger unpressed, battery connected to capacitor, capacitor charging
Phase 2: Trigger is pulled, 3way switch in trigger disconnects capacitor from battery, reconnects capacitor to alternate circuit including solenoid.
Phase 3: solenoid activates, marker fires, capacitor energy expended, no net flow of charge
Phase 4: Trigger is released, 3way switch switches "empty" capacitor back to battery circuit
Phase 5: Trigger is unpressed, battery connected to capacitor, capacitor charging.
I don't know what you were reffering to when you said 15-20 ms and 66ms, please be more clear, I'm interested, and I don't know much about electronics... so feel free to tell me I'm wrong.
And I've had to replace the capacitor on a spyder board before, it's about $1, and All you would need is a 3way switch, a few wires, a capacitor, a pancake solenoid, and a soldering iron(and solder).I'm assuming that you could just solder the 3way and pancake solenoid to the inside of the trigger frame without any extensive milling or whatever. Or you could find like... a $20 old e-spyder and rip the board out.
Comment
-
That circuit would work quite well - as long as your capacitor has enough stored energy to fully kick the 'noid over. If you did the math and sized the cap properly, you would actually have fairly decent battery and noid life, but very little (adjustable) control over dwell. Toss a resistor on the battery side of it so the cap isn't thrashing the battery, and you'd have something usable.
Only real downside is that switch bounce is going to make charging that cap fully a difficult task. And you can't really eliminate switch bounce in this circuit.
Comment
-
I'd only use it on something like a spyder..., dwell doesn't matter cause it just releases the hammer, and then the marker fires by itself.you know you play this game too much when the neighbors stop fixing their broken windows...
:shooting: :cuss:
Comment


Comment