fillin in the holes

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  • Temo Vryce
    Super Chicken
    • Sep 2001
    • 1023

    #16
    Bondo or Autobody Filler. It's what the stuff was made for.

    Comment

    • MANN
      I am in TN. GO VOLS.
      • Apr 2006
      • 4266

      #17
      Just buy a after market rail. RPG or equivalent. After you figure 35.00 for a rt/emag rail, ule milling 35.00, anno 20.00 + numerous shipping charges you can purchase a sexy sleek rail for 100 bucks.

      Comment

      • sslecyk03
        Medic in Training
        • Dec 2003
        • 396

        #18
        Kcombs and Devilman- I like the idea and it sounds like it would work well, thanks


        Mann- I already have a rail that is milled, All I would need is ano, buying another rail for 100 dollars is pretty silly just to avoid screw holes.
        RLTW Hoooahhh!!!

        TEAM FIRESTORM
        --------------------
        RT ULE CUSTOM: ULE mainbody (Blue)/ X-valve/ Level 10 bolt/ Y-grip trigger frame (Brite black)/ hogue grips/ 32 degrees duckbill asa/ 68/4500 pure energy tank/ 12" j and j barrel/ 12 volt revvy with X-board

        soon to come: dallara and logic e-frame

        Comment

        • Ando
          Magusmaximus
          • Jun 2009
          • 4144

          #19
          Toss some SS spikes in that SOB and let the aggie kids fear you. They also have claws. You can find them on fleabay for next to nothing.
          My Feedback

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          • leloup
            Mag Addicted
            • Feb 2009
            • 634

            #20
            Do the holes go all hte way through? I forget, have to look at mine when I get home. If they go all the way through, could you put in a hex screw from the other side, so all you see is the bottom of the screw?



            I kind of like the holes look though....

            Comment

            • OPBN
              OldPBNoob

              • Sep 2008
              • 5240

              #21
              The holes do not go all the way through unless you have the rail ULE milled. Personally, I would opt for sending it to Lukes customs and having Luke mill the rail in order to remove the holes. Looks good and lightens the rail.
              My AO Feedback

              Comment

              • sslecyk03
                Medic in Training
                • Dec 2003
                • 396

                #22
                Originally posted by OPBN
                The holes do not go all the way through unless you have the rail ULE milled. Personally, I would opt for sending it to Lukes customs and having Luke mill the rail in order to remove the holes. Looks good and lightens the rail.
                You can't mill the rail to remove the holes, at least not the front ones. The width of the rail would be way too thin at the front.
                RLTW Hoooahhh!!!

                TEAM FIRESTORM
                --------------------
                RT ULE CUSTOM: ULE mainbody (Blue)/ X-valve/ Level 10 bolt/ Y-grip trigger frame (Brite black)/ hogue grips/ 32 degrees duckbill asa/ 68/4500 pure energy tank/ 12" j and j barrel/ 12 volt revvy with X-board

                soon to come: dallara and logic e-frame

                Comment

                • OPBN
                  OldPBNoob

                  • Sep 2008
                  • 5240

                  #23
                  Actually, you can:



                  Check RTP1 and 3
                  My AO Feedback

                  Comment

                  • sslecyk03
                    Medic in Training
                    • Dec 2003
                    • 396

                    #24
                    Originally posted by OPBN
                    Actually, you can:



                    Check RTP1 and 3
                    I stand corrected. Not the look I'm really going for though. I like the way the rail looks I just want the holes filled.
                    RLTW Hoooahhh!!!

                    TEAM FIRESTORM
                    --------------------
                    RT ULE CUSTOM: ULE mainbody (Blue)/ X-valve/ Level 10 bolt/ Y-grip trigger frame (Brite black)/ hogue grips/ 32 degrees duckbill asa/ 68/4500 pure energy tank/ 12" j and j barrel/ 12 volt revvy with X-board

                    soon to come: dallara and logic e-frame

                    Comment

                    • XM15
                      Registered User

                      • Dec 2005
                      • 279

                      #25
                      Welding the holes puts high temps into melting and bonding the metal. This will make the crystal structure of the welds different than the rest of the rail. Its like heat treating only those small areas of the rail. Thats why welds will stick out like a sore thumb when they are anodized even though when its raw it might be almost invisible.

                      Comment

                      • busby
                        Registered User
                        • Jan 2008
                        • 122

                        #26
                        Originally posted by XM15
                        Welding the holes puts high temps into melting and bonding the metal. This will make the crystal structure of the welds different than the rest of the rail. Its like heat treating only those small areas of the rail. Thats why welds will stick out like a sore thumb when they are anodized even though when its raw it might be almost invisible.
                        i second that.i welded a few of them for olinar.bead blasting may make it blend better for anno,allthough i never tried it.i have a tac rail if interested.

                        Comment

                        • sslecyk03
                          Medic in Training
                          • Dec 2003
                          • 396

                          #27
                          Just a little follow up:


                          Bought some metal filler from the local hardware store and filled the holes in with that. Hardened up real nice. It'll be powder coated so the color difference doesn't bother me.

                          RLTW Hoooahhh!!!

                          TEAM FIRESTORM
                          --------------------
                          RT ULE CUSTOM: ULE mainbody (Blue)/ X-valve/ Level 10 bolt/ Y-grip trigger frame (Brite black)/ hogue grips/ 32 degrees duckbill asa/ 68/4500 pure energy tank/ 12" j and j barrel/ 12 volt revvy with X-board

                          soon to come: dallara and logic e-frame

                          Comment

                          • ProblemKinder
                            Colossians 3:8
                            • Aug 2006
                            • 861

                            #28
                            my favorite was the crayon mashing idea

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