new to mags and forum - need some advice

[03CockerGuy]

Hello everyone I figured I had to start somewhere. Been playing for many years now as a cocker shooter and have become fed up with all the small quirks the autococker has been giving me. I recently started looking for a new marker (which I was dead set on an a5), when I came across video of a walkable mech mag on youtube. I was VERY impressed. Period. I started reviewing mags (because they seemingly disappeared in the past few years) online and am now wondering if this could be the next marker line for me. I am mainly a rec ball player, but I still love laying down the paint when the time calls for it. I am looking for a RELIABLE marker that I can dissasemble and clean without being concerned if it will somehow work right when i assemble it again (cough cocker cough) no matter how many times I retime it.

I'm currentley am consitering the ULE RT on airgun.com with the intelliframe, and ult as the upgrades.

WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK??? I want something I can get to the field with and not have to wonder if it will be a good day for the marker - some cocker owners know i mean and will agree with me.

If there is a link to a Mag-Newbie FAQ, I will gladly read it.

Thank you for your insight

[robnix]

Hello everyone I figured I had to start somewhere. Been playing for many years now as a cocker shooter and have become fed up with all the small quirks the autococker has been giving me. I recently started looking for a new marker (which I was dead set on an a5), when I came across video of a walkable mech mag on youtube. I was VERY impressed. Period. I started reviewing mags (because they seemingly disappeared in the past few years) online and am now wondering if this could be the next marker line for me. I am mainly a rec ball player, but I still love laying down the paint when the time calls for it. I am looking for a RELIABLE marker that I can dissasemble and clean without being concerned if it will somehow work right when i assemble it again (cough cocker cough) no matter how many times I retime it.

I'm currentley am consitering the ULE RT on airgun.com with the intelliframe, and ult as the upgrades.

WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK??? I want something I can get to the field with and not have to wonder if it will be a good day for the marker - some cocker owners know i mean and will agree with me.

If there is a link to a Mag-Newbie FAQ, I will gladly read it.

Thank you for your insight

I would highly recommend emailing Tuna at http://www.tunamart.com to see what he has for you. [email protected]

You'll be very happy with a mag. Reliable and simple are one of the main reasons I use them.

[Lenny]

Walkable mechanical 'Mag, eh? Joe! Where you at? (Joe's the man when it somes to pneumags)

And like said above me, Tuna will hook you up.

[�?�� �m���]

Welcome Welcome!

[javasnot17]

I am looking for a RELIABLE marker that I can dissasemble and clean without being concerned if it will somehow work right when i assemble it again (cough cocker cough) no matter how many times I retime it.

Lol, if that's what you're looking for, then considering a Mag would've definitely saved you countless hours of crying during your many years of playing with a Cocker. IMO, Mags are one of, if not, THE most reliable piece of paintball equipment you'll ever expirience. Yes, even more reliable than a harness, there I said it. Anywho, a ULE RT or RT PRO is a perfect gun to start with. Welcome dude.

[Lenny]

Check out the RPG Paradigm Pro . You can find it at www.themagsmith.com

Welcom to AO!

I smell the foul smell of SPAM!!!

...But I'll let it slide this time since it is a sweet gun and all. Consider it a warning.

But seriously, Rogue will hook you up too. Tuna = Rogue dealer, so either way you go, consider it a +/+

[spectre184]

If you didnt know was that the ULE RT uses cocker barrels. So since you shoot a cocker you wont have to buy any barrels.

Also the RT needs an HPA only tank with output pressure of >850psi. Didnt know if your cocker was set up to run low pressure or not and what your tank output was.

You will be happy. In the 90's my freinds were shooting cockers and having timeing problems, back block stripping out from the hammering of the ram, etc.... I just added 4 drops of oil in my mag before I played

[Badmovies.org]

That's the interesting thing about cockers from what I have seen. People, even if they are very good at tuning them, eventually get tired of having to do it all the time.

I have another post that gives a bunch of information about a customized RT Pro that I recently bought. Pretty much tells the whole story.

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=211063

The only two "complex" tasks with the marker is how to setup the Lvl 10 and how to tweak the ULT. Both are very easy to do. Just follow the Lvl 10 guide for that bolt.

The ULT is a simple matter of adding shims until it feels the way you like it. A good starting point seems to be 5 or 6 ULT shims (a Lvl 10 shim is twice as thick as a ULT shim - so you can use them too). If you get too many ULT shims in there it will fire bursts or go full auto. I saw the prior with 7 shims in mine, it would fire about 6 shots every time so I dropped a shim to keep it to one shot per pull of the trigger.

Oh, and once you get the Lvl 10 right, it stays that way until you replace the o-ring. I cannot remember how many shots I put through my old Automag, but there were quite a few cases between o-rings. I do not have enough experience with my ULT, but have not had to make any adjustment after about 8000 shots now.

[craltal]

If you didnt know was that the ULE RT uses cocker barrels. So since you shoot a cocker you wont have to buy any barrels.

Also the RT needs an HPA only tank with output pressure of >850psi. Didnt know if your cocker was set up to run low pressure or not and what your tank output was.

You will be happy. In the 90's my freinds were shooting cockers and having timeing problems, back block stripping out from the hammering of the ram, etc.... I just added 4 drops of oil in my mag before I played

actually you only need a HP output tank, it doesn't need to output over 850, just over 750 and it'll be usable. One possibility is that the higher your input pressure, the higher the possibility for trigger reactivity. It's not guaranteed that you can get reactivity out of an RT/ X valve

[03CockerGuy]

actually you only need a HP output tank, it doesn't need to output over 850, just over 750 and it'll be usable. One possibility is that the higher your input pressure, the higher the possibility for trigger reactivity. It's not guaranteed that you can get reactivity out of an RT/ X valve

Ill have to look at my tank (a friend is borrowing it right now) but its a pmi 68/4500 (output, im assuming, is around the 800 something). My cocker always ran stock valves and pressures. I never screwed with LP valves becuase I was never concerned with trying to get a extra 100 shots out of my gun. It seemed pointless because I was already getting between 800-1000 between fills.

What's the deal with the o-rings? Is that the only real "weakness" of the mag? Is when players go without oiling their marker when the mag issues arise?

Also, I have been looking at Tunamart and I see the markers that he sells are less than that of the factory MSRP which is a big plus. How does buying a marker from him affect the factory warranty? Do I still get the backing from AGD or does everything go through him? Just curious.

Again, thanks to everyone putting in their two cents worth. I honeslty have been treated better here than on the a5og forums when I was considering a tippmann again.

[robnix]

What's the deal with the o-rings? Is that the only real "weakness" of the mag? Is when players go without oiling their marker when the mag issues arise?

I look at the O-Rings as a strength. There's not too many points of failure on a mag valve, and most issues can be fixed with the appropriate o-ring, shim, or carrier. I bought a used mag first off, and had issues the first day I played. Luckily I had a blow up picture of the valve on my laptops and was able to fix it on the spot with some judicious troubleshooting.

Also, I have been looking at Tunamart and I see the markers that he sells are less than that of the factory MSRP which is a big plus. How does buying a marker from him affect the factory warranty? Do I still get the backing from AGD or does everything go through him? Just curious.

You should still get the factory coverage. Emailing Tuna is your best bet to make sure though.

Again, thanks to everyone putting in their two cents worth. I honeslty have been treated better here than on the a5og forums when I was considering a tippmann again.

It's one of the many reasons I shoot a mag.

[Badmovies.org]

I agree that the o-rings are a strength. If something is going to wear out, I want it to be an o-ring. I have helped to fix a few mags over the years (mechs only) and always found problems caused by three things:

Replace o-rings (or other soft parts available in the $20 parts kit)
Replace bolt spring
Disassemble the valve and clean dirt and gunk out of it

Doing the figuring the other day and I was trying to trace the maintenance on my classic valve Automag that I have had since 1999 or so. Best I can figure, total cost of needed maintenance has been less than $30. One parts kit and two bolt springs. My best guess is that I have fired over 35 cases through it. Probably more like 40-45.

The Gold Cup lube that I received with my recent RT Pro is good stuff, but I have switched entirely to KC Trouble Free for my newest marker. I noticed an improvement in my classic Automag using the stuff so the new RT Pro is on a strict diet.

By the way, compare all this to the guy I met who was shooting his new electro Spyder yesterday. At the end of the day he took out his bolt and was frightened by the amount of wear. Granted, Spyders tend to do that until the parts wear in - but the Lvl 10 bolt in my classic Automag shows no signs of wear after 5 years or so of use.

[Coralis]

If you are shooting HPA on a mag your orings will last a long time CO2 mags tend to go through Oring a lot faster. Trouble shooting a mag can be a pita until you get used to it as there are very few moving parts and very tight tolerances so a little nick in a oring can cause all sorts of issues however once you get used to trouble shooting a mag you can usually strip it down and repair it and be back on the field in a few mins.

[MaD_SaM]

I found these Videos very informative. I was able to fix my mag with the information Tom provided in those vid's, good stuff Hope it helps in furthering your knowledge of AutoMag's.

[03CockerGuy]

I must say the RPG Paradigm Classic or the Pro looks pretty attractive; especially the price. I can't make up my mind if I like the trigger that comes on the Pro. Anyone use this trigger? Any pros/cons of it?

One quick ques - whats the deal with the rail? I'm assuming thats what the body sits/attaches on/to?

Ill check out those vids today when I'm on campus. Thanks for the info.

I've been editing this post in the last hour...ehhh, sorry. I've been googling "short stroking" for the mag and haven't really found the answer I'm searching for. OK - when the cocker short stroked, one most likely chopped an paintball. With a mag, is it similar? Not pulling the trigger back far enough? Is this issue really an issue anymore with the lvl 10 and ule trigger, etc, etc.? I know with the cocker shortstroking usually meant the marker de-cocking itself and then two balls loading? Does the mag ever de-cock itself? (How much dumber can I really sound lol?)

alright, ill leave this post alone. thanks again.