I was pointing out that there is a difference between a mini and a mag with lvl 10. The poster I quoted referenced the mini having lvl 10, which is not correct.
As for the setup, that's not necessarily true. The shop I do tech work for has had to send a few mini's back and the information we were given by the Invert tech's is that we did the right thing, because they had to put a new board in them. Sometimes the problem is more than just settings, although overwhelmingly the problems I see are just mini's needing tuning/breaking in and tweeking with the settings.
A lot of people have a problem with this since some mini's don't work right out of the box. A lot feel that for the price the marker should be ready to go, but a lot of them require a breakin procedure and some tweeking. Some of them when doing a 2 ball test have such bad blowback that it shoots the second ball in the stack over 8-10 feet in the air. That's what I call a problem, and sometimes that can be fixed with breaking it in and dropping the dwell. Some have suggested that the type of latching solenoid used doesn't always synch up correctly to the stock board causing it. This being said, the guys at APE did a lot of testing and found the problems, and have corrected them with their own board.
On top of that, the stock detents royally suck, and hoppers like halo b's and reloader b's can push the ball past them causing chopping as well. So it isn't always a matter of setting them up correctly. There are a few minor kinks being still being worked out. But like I said, some work great out of the box. I wouldn't be afraid of buying one if you don't mind throwing in the APE board and the Kila detents if necessary. With those upgrades I've yet to see a mini have problems.
BTW, your 99% quote is not true. I know this from the numbers I've seen from my store alone come back. For us, it's about 50/50 whether or not a mini is going to work well out of the box. Out of the 50 percent that don't work out of the box and have problems, the majority of them (80 percent or so) can be tuned/tweeked to get them working. This is where people have problems.. they are paying to have it work out of the box. Anyways, your numbers are wrong.. I like when people who buy these and don't have problems make it seem like those who buy the problematic ones are at fault, and not the marker. It's a growing pain that Invert will overcome. They are a good company and are standing behind these mini's, and if you can't tune them back to working, send it in and their turnaround time isn't bad. There is a reason why they had to replace all the 1.1 boards with the 1.2 boards. The 1.2 boards work for some, but the problems still pop up in others... I know that they'll have this fixed for good in no time. The other choice is to just buy the APE board which already has the flaws ironed out.
As for the setup, that's not necessarily true. The shop I do tech work for has had to send a few mini's back and the information we were given by the Invert tech's is that we did the right thing, because they had to put a new board in them. Sometimes the problem is more than just settings, although overwhelmingly the problems I see are just mini's needing tuning/breaking in and tweeking with the settings.
A lot of people have a problem with this since some mini's don't work right out of the box. A lot feel that for the price the marker should be ready to go, but a lot of them require a breakin procedure and some tweeking. Some of them when doing a 2 ball test have such bad blowback that it shoots the second ball in the stack over 8-10 feet in the air. That's what I call a problem, and sometimes that can be fixed with breaking it in and dropping the dwell. Some have suggested that the type of latching solenoid used doesn't always synch up correctly to the stock board causing it. This being said, the guys at APE did a lot of testing and found the problems, and have corrected them with their own board.
On top of that, the stock detents royally suck, and hoppers like halo b's and reloader b's can push the ball past them causing chopping as well. So it isn't always a matter of setting them up correctly. There are a few minor kinks being still being worked out. But like I said, some work great out of the box. I wouldn't be afraid of buying one if you don't mind throwing in the APE board and the Kila detents if necessary. With those upgrades I've yet to see a mini have problems.
BTW, your 99% quote is not true. I know this from the numbers I've seen from my store alone come back. For us, it's about 50/50 whether or not a mini is going to work well out of the box. Out of the 50 percent that don't work out of the box and have problems, the majority of them (80 percent or so) can be tuned/tweeked to get them working. This is where people have problems.. they are paying to have it work out of the box. Anyways, your numbers are wrong.. I like when people who buy these and don't have problems make it seem like those who buy the problematic ones are at fault, and not the marker. It's a growing pain that Invert will overcome. They are a good company and are standing behind these mini's, and if you can't tune them back to working, send it in and their turnaround time isn't bad. There is a reason why they had to replace all the 1.1 boards with the 1.2 boards. The 1.2 boards work for some, but the problems still pop up in others... I know that they'll have this fixed for good in no time. The other choice is to just buy the APE board which already has the flaws ironed out.
Mine worked perfect out of the box, also there is more upgrades for the rail. I would wait until the 2008 version of the mini is out, by then all the bugs should be worked out. Until then get a rail tried and ture.
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