Logic Ripper EM - The Electro Solution - PreOrder

[CoolHand]

OK guys, I've got my quotes done, and I have a price ready to go.

Drum roll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $450 complete

Already got an LPR? Then its $425

Click Here to get one PreOrdered!

UPDATE (9-26-05):

Here's a dry firing video. I'll do a vid with paint as soon as I get the body cut for eyes.

Right click the link below and select "save target as".

Vidage!

UPDATE AGAIN (10-10-05)

OK folks, drum roll please . . . . . .

Right Click the link and choose "Save Target As".

Short Video with Paint

It sound graphed out at just a fuzz over 20bps. That's a stock HALO-B too, so I'm going to guess that its just not going to go faster than that (already using fresh batteries).

I'll see what I can do with the Cheetah HALO I've got kicking around here though.

One thing I did notice, is that you basically can't dry fire this thing. If you set the board timing to let you dry fire, its unnecessarily slow with the eyes on (since you also have a BIP delay when the eyes are on). If you set to to be fast with the eyes on (like in the video), it will chuff and short-stroke like a madman when you try to use it with them off, since the BIP delay is ignored when the eyes are off.

But, that's OK, you just have to shoot paint to show off.

It is fast as hell, I will say that.


Specs:

Predator Board AFA 5.0 (or newer)
Eye Components included (You build the harness and do the eye install)
Roller Bearing Trigger
Adjustable switch contact and post travel, fixed forward stop
Magnetic trigger return
DM5 Grips
Huge trigger guard
Integrated Dovetail Rail
Includes VA that is already tapped for the LPR
Complete kit comes with Jackhammer LPR (black)
Does not use the ULT (you need to use a stock RTP on/off)
Uses one 9V battery
Mounting hardware and allen keys included

Works with RTP, EMag, and Karta Rail, as well as any RTP type rail (like most of what Rogue sells).
Works with ULE body, Karta Body, and any body cut from a slug.

Will not work with twist lock bodies.

It can be made to work with classic rails, but custom work will be involved (IE its no longer just a bolt on thing).

Finished Design:



First 15 preorders get to choose a custom color (for the frame, trigger, and VA) at no extra charge, and laser engraving of their choice on one side (I'll post up a template of the area so you can go to town), also at no extra charge.

Its going to be at least six to eight weeks to have finished products, likely longer if everythinhg doesn't go just right.

Everyone has to realize that this is going to be a long term deal. If you cannot wait for three or four months for your parts, do not sign up. I've said it here, and I will post it again on the site for the preorders.

I want everyone to know two things:

1) This is going to take a while. Probably longer than any of us think right now.
2) There will be no refunds for the preorders. This is going to be a high dollar project, one which I cannot float out of pocket for the time that this is going to take. You have to know this going in. Your money will be gone into the parts right after you place the order, so it cannot come back easily. For that reason, there will be no refunds on the preorder.

Click Here to get one PreOrdered!

I know the price is higher than I wanted it to be, but by doing them in such small runs, the price is a bit higher than it would have been.

EDIT (8-15-05): The first 25 frames are done being machined. The internal parts are due to be done this week. All I am waiting on are boards from TAG, and orders from you guys. They can't be anodized until they are ordered, so . . . . . . . . . . go get 'em ordered!

New Pics, of actual metal this time:

Driver Side:



Lower Angle to show the Countersunk Rear Frame Screw:



Passenger Side:



Update (9-26-05):

Driver's Side Full View


Passenger's Side Full View


Driver's Side Close View


Passenger's Side Close View (please disregard the ghetto-fabulous on/off switch, that obviously won't be there when my little PCB's are done)

[A-Tach-One]

For what you are offering here, this is a good price! Let us know how much this set up weighs when you get a chance. Thanks

[Automaggot68]

Got The First One, Suckers.

[CoolHand]

For what you are offering here, this is a good price! Let us know how much this set up weighs when you get a chance. Thanks

Looks like between 7 & 9 ozs fully loaded for the frame.

More if you add in the VA and LPR.

That big ol' frame is actually a whole ounce lighter than the vert frames bare.

Now THAT is ULE.

It won't be real heavy, but since its got a 'noid and 9v in there, its going to be heavier than a mech mag.

I won't have a for sure weight of the whole kit until I get one put together.

[UTDragun]

so why is the ult bad?

i mean, how can you use a powerful noid and 9v?= whats the battery life?

[CoolHand]

so why is the ult bad?

i mean, how can you use a powerful noid and 9v?= whats the battery life?

Its not a electromechanical 'noid, its a solenoid valve. We are using air here folks.

Tiny 'noid = about four to five times the battery life over using a pancake.

We need the RT kick from the On/Off to reset the actuator.

[dj89]

What kind of custom work are we talking for a MM rail? Man I love having a job, so I can get this kind of thing.

[CoolHand]

What kind of custom work are we talking for a MM rail? Man I love having a job, so I can get this kind of thing.

You just need to make an extension to move the VA out farther.

The trigger guard is so big that it obstructs the original foregrip mount.

It shouldn't be too bad, there's four or five different ways to pull it off.

[b&r automag]

Will gas thru foregrips work or will you now need a regulator?

[dj89]

You just need to make an extension to move the VA out farther.

The trigger guard is so big that it obstructs the original foregrip mount.

It shouldn't be too bad, there's four or five different ways to pull it off.

How dose this frame sit on a rt rail ?
(How much room would be between the foregrip and frame?)


Also, will the VA be a 15*?

[CoolHand]

Will gas thru foregrips work or will you now need a regulator?

Gas thru is fine. The LPR mounts on the VA and sticks forward under the barrel.

You could use a reg there, I guess, but its kinda pointless (unless you want to '86 the reg on the valve, but that's another episode).

DJ - The VA is made just like the one that ships with the RT Customs. With it mounted to the stock hole in the RTP rail there is about 3/16" between the VA and the trigger guard. With the VA pushed out flush with the front of the rail, there is 5/8" between them. VA is vertical, not 15 deg. If you want a 15 deg, you can mod one yourself, its just one tapped hole different.

What was the point in posting that pic anyway?

[dj89]

What was the point in posting that pic anyway?

I waned to know how close it would be to that forgrip.

[sleepingbeauty]

Is the lpr used to regulate the pressure put on the sear to fire? If not why is it there and where is the hose running, through the frame?

sorry if there is a place that explains this but I am interested. If there is a link can I get it plz?

thanks-
Pat

[CoolHand]

I waned to know how close it would be to that forgrip.

5/8 of an inch (0.625").

You'll need to mod that foregrip though, to accept the LPR for this deal to work.

[CoolHand]

Is the lpr used to regulate the pressure put on the sear to fire? If not why is it there and where is the hose running, through the frame?

sorry if there is a place that explains this but I am interested. If there is a link can I get it plz?

thanks-
Pat

Yup, the LPR steps the 700+ psi input down to the ~50-75 psi that is used to actuate the sear.

The hosing runs into the front tip of the frame above where the trigger guard starts. The only hose exposed is the run from the LPR to there (about an inch of hosing).

There hasn't been much talk about the inner workings, as I wanted to keep them under wraps.

The LPR needs to be there and the hosing has been routed through the VA and frame so as to minimize its susceptibility to damage (and to make it show as little as possible).