The last problem in the automag valve

[z-zero]

OOOOOO, I forgot about the spring tension change.

Thanks,

z-zero

[athomas]

In a pre level 10 setup, the majority of the pressure on the trigger is from the bolt pushing on the sear and less pushing on the on/off pin. The level 10 reduces the differential pressure between the chamber pressure and the bolt spring to a minimal amount. The stiffer spring means that the chamber pressure has to be increased which adds to the pressure on the on/off pin. Therefore, the post level 10 pressure on the trigger is now mostly made up of the pressure on the on/off pin and less on the bolt pushing the sear.

I hope this makes sense. I am a lttle tired and things are blurring together.

[joeyjoe367]

Hey, I got an idea! We could hook up electronics into the grip frame so that when you pull the trigger, a solenoid will push on the on/off and help with the trigger pull!

...oh wait, that's called an e-mag

[z-zero]

OK i understand

So with what Athomas said, a lvl 10 valve would benefit more from an RT pro on/off then would a lvl 7 valve. So if I have a lvl 10 valve and put an RT pro on/off in it the trigger will be lighter then before? Short-stroking, because of the lighter trigger, would be a none issue with lvl 10. So if I want to lighten my trigger I can get lvl 10, and if I want it even lighter I put a RT pro on/off in it? How does this effect the trigger rod length? I need to adjust that for the RT pro on/off pin right? This is really an interesting topic for me. Lighten my trigger without decreasing the life of my parts.

Thanks,

z-zero

[athomas]

On a standard AIR valve the pressure on the on/off pin is always the regulated pressure. The approx 350 psi is translated into a force based on the cross sectional area of the on/off pin.

In an RT valve the trigger pull is pushing against the regulated chamber pressure which is the same pressure as the standard AIR valve. The big difference here is that the on/off pin diameter at the output side is half the size of the standard pin. This translates into half the force on it. The return pressure on the on/off pin to reset the trigger is the gun input pressure which is considerably higher than the regulated pressure in the gun. This is what give the RT reactive effect.

The level 10 increases the overall force on the on/off pin during the trigger pull because of the increase in the regulated pressure that the gun runs at to compensate for the increased bolt spring tension. The sear pressure is reduced. The overall force on the trigger is slightly less.

The RT on/off pin will work in the standard AIR valve to lighten the trigger pull lightly without sacrificing flow. Use it in conjunction with the level 10 and you should have a nice trigger pull. Put some constant tension on the trigger with a spring or magnet and you could reduce the trigger pull to under a pound and it would still work properly.

[z-zero]

wow, that is so cool, so how would you go about setting up magnets or springs? Thanks for all the info. This is the coolest stuff I've read in a while.

Thanks again,

z-zero

[z-zero]

just a quick thought

If lvl 10 reduces the amount of pressure on the sear, then perhaps the polishing of the sear would not greatly decrese the life of the sear. Maybe grinding an angled edge as described by ravi would be safer then before. Perhaps the harder RT pro sear angle grinded would be better? I'm not sure how much effect that would have on the trigger pull after lvl 10 and the RT pro on/off. Sorry I'm not trying to turn this into a trigger lighting thread it just sorta happened

Thanks,

z-zero