There's been some talk about somewhat lower gas efficiency from the Level 10 bolt. The reason seems obvious to me, the extra interior space that must be filled in addition to the space behind the ball.

The increased inside diameter absorbs some gas, as does the drilled out center of the piston rod.
A possible solution:
Glue a plug over the drilled piston cavity.
2. Fill the extra space around the power tube with a light, tough plastic, such as UHMW polyethylene(green.
I suppose I might mount the bolt in my lathe, with a supply of molldable UHMW, spin it while heating, then cooling. If the quantity is right, no post-machiing will be needed. Also, the constant ID will guide smoothly against the power tube tip, better centering the bolt during it's travel.
Another method would be to use a pre-formed insert, like a piece of tubing with a split down one side. Lap the ends over each other, slip it inside and flatten it out so the ends butt together.
It may be that this additional volume is completely insignificant.. Anyone with a level10 care to meassuw and calculate it?

The increased inside diameter absorbs some gas, as does the drilled out center of the piston rod.
A possible solution:
Glue a plug over the drilled piston cavity.
2. Fill the extra space around the power tube with a light, tough plastic, such as UHMW polyethylene(green.
I suppose I might mount the bolt in my lathe, with a supply of molldable UHMW, spin it while heating, then cooling. If the quantity is right, no post-machiing will be needed. Also, the constant ID will guide smoothly against the power tube tip, better centering the bolt during it's travel.
Another method would be to use a pre-formed insert, like a piece of tubing with a split down one side. Lap the ends over each other, slip it inside and flatten it out so the ends butt together.
It may be that this additional volume is completely insignificant.. Anyone with a level10 care to meassuw and calculate it?




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