Filled Level10 bolt to improve efficiency?

[trains are bad]

"the difference between tank output(800 psi) and operating psi(200) is 600 psi.
in my mag the difference is only 300 psi. I think there needs to be more of a difference there. "

The valve is rated for 3000psi. Why not gut the tank reg?

[the electrician]

Athomas-

I always figured the lvl 10 didn't stay forward as long because it took longer to move forward, the whole time air is escaping. my lvl 10 gets blow back just like the standard bolt. I'm interested in seeing just how far the lvl 10 travels, and how long it stays forward.

I don't know if there's enough room to put an o-ring on the end of the bolt.
you can use a 1/16" thick o-ring, or a 3/32" o-ring. definitely not enough room for the 3/32" one. it would probably hold up the best though.

you would need an o-ring groove in the very end of the bolt almost into the bolt the full 1/16" thickness. you'd end up using a 1/16" thick 11/16" OD(.687) and stretching it a bit to get what will be needed. My ULE body has an inner breech size of .694". the only o-rings close(.694" and .693") are 3/32" thick and thicker.

I would love to figure out a way to make the bolt out of something else. but it's basically the most complicated bolt in all paintguns.

I've done a few tests with the standard bolt, trying really short spacer to keep the air from escaping at all until the bolt is almost done moving. but I want to figure out how to make the lvl 10 more efficient.


Hitech-

I'll try something, IF I feel I can get it back out. you think of something other than cable, I might try it :)


trains are bad-

I can't afford to buy a tank to use specifically for my mag that outputs 3000 psi. besides, I only have 4500 psi tanks. and something tells that just because the valve can "handle it" doesn't mean the reg would work properly trying to go from 3000 to 500. I have a feeling you would get some nasty spikes.

[athomas]

I'm not sure there is enough room for an o-ring on the end of the bolt either. The bolt isn't for use with a barrel id less than .685. If the breach is .694 then we need to take up about 10/1000". We wouldn't want any more or it could affect the level 10 operation. We would need a groove about 60/1000" deep to get this using a 1/16" o-ring.

I'd like to see a pressure profile of valve with a level 10 bolt. I think that would give us an indication of what is taking place.

[hitech]

I'll try something, IF I feel I can get it back out. you think of something other than cable, I might try it :)

You can use just about anything you can think of. Pipe cleaners also comes to mind. You just need something that is likely to stay put and not interfere with the air passages. Oh yeah, and is removable.

[cledford]

the real reason you can't mill off the outer part of the bolt is because of the next paint ball in line would want to fill the void created. not good. you're almost always better off taking mass out from the inside of a bolt.that's just my opinion.
.

Leave the meat on the inside of the bolt and flute the outside. That will remove almost as much material (depending on how you do it) but preserve the OD of the bolt to avoid paint dropping too far into the breach.

If AGD did it thay could offer it as an upgrade to to the Xvalve. If SP can come out with a HE bolt kit for the Shocker - why not AGD with one for the RT valve?

-Calvin

[cledford]

Just fill the existing one with something. A short length of ss cable "wound" in so that it uncoils once in the chamber and stays put is what Tom suggested.

I'm not sure if is anyone is brave enough to try this - but what about drilling and tapping a large set screw into the side of the dump chamber? (say an 1/8 NPT plug?) Use a large enough screw and viola, you've got an adjustable air chamber. Screw it in to reduce size back it out to increase. You could even add more then one - I'd guess 3 easy.

I'm not offering up my valve on the chopping block (although I could hardly see how it could hurt) but it might be worth considering.

-Calvin

[11_Mile_TMaster]

I'm not sure if is anyone is brave enough to try this - but what about drilling and tapping a large set screw into the side of the dump chamber? (say an 1/8 NPT plug?) Use a large enough screw and viola, you've got an adjustable air chamber. Screw it in to reduce size back it out to increase. You could even add more then one - I'd guess 3 easy.

I'm not offering up my valve on the chopping block (although I could hardly see how it could hurt) but it might be worth considering.

-Calvin

Not a bad idea at all... For starters... didn't some Blowforward clone use some air chamber size adjuster for velocity control? I could be horribly wrong...

There's one Caveat to your idea though, Cledford... That would also require holes to be drilled into the mainbody.

[Ityl]

If the bolt is staying forward too long, there is too much air in the dump chamber. There's 2 things you can do: Release less air or release the air faster. Releasing the air faster would get more air to the ball while it's in the barrel, therefore you can lower the pressure. Releasing less air would use the same air pressure as now, but would blow off less after the ball is left. I think both of these things are doable and could be done to the current valve. Maybe I'll spend some of my next paycheck on buying a used mag.

The only negative I can think of now is increased blowback.

I don't like the RT valve. It's finicky. How the valve is oiled or the gun is put together can have big effects on the guns performance. Then even when it's working correctly you have to worry about the shoot up. The valve is very fast, but not consistent.

Now the classic LVL 7, loved it. I could go to the chrono and hit speeds like 290, 290, 289 all day long, +/- 1, even with less than perfect paint. The RT valve is overrated.