cphilip drills another hole in his Truck....

[cphilip]

Well here is the truck itself but this needs to be updated as you do not see the CB antenna in this one. Its rather old.

[SpongeBobSquarePants]

looks awsome phil now all u need to do is lower it and get a awsome paint job then u got a truck

[Nobody077]

Now you need to strap a small florecent bulb to your CB antenna, it will light up when you key the mic Then an exhaust brake(unless thats what the Prodigy Brake controller is), and Air assist all the way around for that extra comfy ride with big loads, then.... LOL it will never end

[krafty]

What's next on the list? Propane injection?

[cphilip]

NO way! No Propane or chips here. I got warranty to consider.

Here is a pict I for get I even had. An old place to put a regular guage on one. This was on the last truck which was Gas and it was an install of a tranny temp gauge in the dash. It used to be part of an artical I wrote for FordDiesel.com. I had two articals over there back then and I need to get busy one day and re-upload the pictures and refix the links. They used to be on Photopoint before it went under and left us all stranded. I still get emails about these articals askin for the pictures. One was this install and one was placing a cooling fan on the stock transmission cooler. As far as I can tell I was the first to successfully accomplish both of those in the SuperDuties. Back in early 2000.

[krafty]

Originally posted by cphilip
NO way! No Propane or chips here. I got warranty to consider.

Well... I understand that. So when the warranty is up, I expect to see a propane tank mounted inside the frame rails and a nitrous tank bolted into the bed! You know you want to break 500 hp with that sucker....

[cphilip]

be a long time....100,000 miles warranty on the engine....

[cphilip]

Ok almost finished with the funcional modifications and starting some more exterior things. This picture is some billet grills I put on this past weekend. Its not my truck shown but its a picture of them and it looks the same as mine. I have not had a chance to snap an actual one of mine yet. Will do soon and replace this one.

[cphilip]

Ok here they are on my Truck...

[blitzmercenary]

you are brave. i dont even like taking apart my pneus on my cocker.

[cphilip]

hehe... I know what you mean. This may be easier!

Ok this is one of the next projects. I am still debating what color to use on the Numbers and letters. I am leaning towords the color of the pin stripes which is a burgundy (dark red not like this pictured red) The truck is Oxford White with Silver lower tone. I will either dress with the Pin Stripe color or go black. What you think?

These are milled alluminum polished custom (they do not make a "SuperCrewzer" model in less than the F650 but its similar to what a F350 would be but just smaller)

[rhetor22]

go with the burgandy.

sweet.

I wish i had enough money to put all the stuff i want to on my truck.

I know what i have that you don't! A light bar with dual 100watt halogens.... and FOUR FOGHORNS!!!!!!!!

you should replace the factory horn with some big *** fog horns.

[cphilip]

Well speaking of lights...I am about to drop the bumper and put the Fog lights in up front. But I was talking to the Father in Law tonight and we decided we are going to put in a set of reverse lamps too. But we decided it would be best to put them on their own switch. Not to hook them into the reverse lamps. That way I can use them or not. And use them for hooking up the trailer when the truck was in park for instance. So that is on the docket.

I am thinking of a set of PIAA, Heliwig or Warn driving lights back there under the rear bumper. Illuminated rocker switch on the dash. A seperate color Illuminated Switch than the Fogs would have. Right now I have a Red one rated for 30 Amps I was going to use on the Fogs. Figure I will pick up a Blue one and set em side by side on the dash near the steering wheel within view. Should be easy as I will pull one hot wire off the battery of sufficent size to power them both, fuse it for 20 or 30 amps near the battery and then split that in the cabin at each switch then go off the switches, one running to the rear and one back up to the fogs. If I chose the right size wire to run into the supply side of the switches, 10 or 12 ga I think. I can run the 45 Watt fogs and the 55 Watt Rear lamps by running from thier switches to each of them with 16 guage wire. Each will be drawing about 7 and 9 amps respectively and that 16 Ga is rated for at least 12 amps I think. And encase this all in black wire loom too to protect it and make it look good. So that is the plan. Just need a few things. Cheap realy to do. All that is a $50 modification. And a lot of crawling around. In my case extra driving lights is not a need. This is a highway hauler not an off road beast. Totaly different mind set. I used to have an 97 F150 Lariat Off Road Pkg 4X4 and that would have been the one for that set up. That was a sweet truck. Miss that truck but it was not the Highway Crewzer this one is. Different application is all.

[cphilip]

Hey Rhetor here is something you may find usefull...

Wire gauge should be chosen based on the current load you expect the wire to carry. If you use too small a wire size for the electrical current needed to drive an accessory, the wire will become hot and the insulation may eventually melt, leaving the wire exposed.

The table below shows the American Wire Gauge (AWG) sizes recommended for various current load requirements. These sizes are valid for runs up to about 15 feet. If you make longer runs, upgrade to the next larger (numerically lower) size wire. You can always use a larger wire than what is recommended.



Wire size Current Capacity
(AWG) (amps)
20 5
18 8
16 12
14 18
12 24
10 40

Always use stranded wire for automotive applications. Due to fracturing, solid core wire is much more prone to failure. Stranded wire is more flexible and can better withstand the constant vibration in a vehicle. Also, make sure that you use wire intended for use in a vehicle. It is typically insulated with a material that is chemical and temperature resistant.

To calculate our electrical wiring requirements, it's helpful to know a few simple equations:

POWER (watts) = VOLTAGE (volts) x CURRENT (amps)

This equation can also be written to solve for current in a circuit:

CURRENT (amps) = POWER (watts)/VOLTAGE (volts)

For instance, suppose we have a pair of 100-watt driving lights to install and wire using a single switch and single main positive wire. This means that we have to design for a 200-watt load. Using the second equation above, we can see that the current flow in our switch and wire will be 200 watts/12 volts or about 17 amps. Therefore, a 20-amp setup would be adequate for this load, but a 25- or 30- amp capacity would provide a better margin.

[cphilip]

cphilip gets a good report from the Truck Doctor!!!!