Bowling

[RRfireblade]

Originally posted by Miscue


That's a good idea. However, I'm not a fan of mixing up weights with primary and spare balls... I figure it's one more thing that is needlessly changed.

No I agree, I'm figuring he'd be able to stick with that weight on the new ball if he gets that far.

And don't get me started on the "suitcase" approach,I'm kinda getting tired of this.

[Collegeboy]

Originally posted by Miscue


No! Suitcase = BAD! Hand needs to be under the ball, not over it.

If your hands are behind the ball it leads to a want to turn the ball which = BAD. If your hands are on the side (not the top) it leads to a more natural release of the ball and a more natural slight curve in it, which allows it to move the 8 boards.

Put your hands to your side and see how your hands fall. That is how you should release the ball. I don't know about you but my hand naturally falls palm side in not towards the front.

[Miscue]

Originally posted by Collegeboy


If your hands are behind the ball it leads to a want to turn the ball which = BAD. If your hands are on the side (not the top) it leads to a more natural release of the ball and a more natural slight curve in it, which allows it to move the 8 boards.

Put your hands to your side and see how your hands fall. That is how you should release the ball. I don't know about you but my hand naturally falls palm side in not towards the front.

You don't throw the ball in a "natural" position. You gotta get under it, maximize your leverage and generate some revolutions.

My bowling vid tip of the week:

http://www.automags.org/~Miscue/bowling.wmv

[RRfireblade]

Originally posted by Miscue



My bowling vid tip of the week:

http://www.automags.org/~Miscue/bowling.wmv

[Collegeboy]

Originally posted by Miscue


You don't throw the ball in a "natural" position. You gotta get under it, maximize your leverage and generate some revolutions.

My bowling vid tip of the week:

http://www.automags.org/~Miscue/bowling.wmv

If you throw it from the side you automatically put a rev on it and it is way more comfortable, accurate, and transfers more power to the ball then from behind it.

Your hold of it is wrong for the suitcase hold. Cuff up the ball to where the finger holes are on the side, not the top.

Also make sure when you release the ball that your thumb comes out before your fingers, this will add the needed left to the ball.

Also, Miscue. Why in the world do you snap your wrist like that. That has got to be the worst way you can ever release a ball. Simple 45 degree movement will make a ball that is drilled right go from the left to the right and into the 1-3 pocket. No need to force it. The most rotation I ever put on my wrist is to go from a 1/4 turn (1/2 way between complete back and side) and move my hand to the side. Only that when the lane is real oilly and I brought the wrong balls.

[Miscue]

[sps16]

I've got my own bowling shoes

[Collegeboy]

Originally posted by Miscue

Don't roll your eyes when you have shown to not know what you are arguing about. Who in the world would argue that a suitcase hold is holding the ball on the top, when I have for pages said it is to the side.

Why in the world would you ask other bowlers just learning and throwing a plastic ball to use a technique that you shouldn't even use (Come on snapping the risk is inaccurate and dangerous, drill your ball a little more off center and bam there you go). Why would you want a beginner to snap his wrist when he is throwing a plastic ball none the less?

[Miscue]

Fool. Your hand should be behind the ball, not to the side. The more your hand is cupped, the more leverage you have to put rotation on the ball. Your hand's lateral angle can be used to adjust the degree in which the ball rolls.

Put an a armswing behind that ball, instead of me sitting behind a chair... and it will be a smooth action. It appears abrupt because the camera is frame dropping and I'm not throwing the ball... I'm just demonstrating how the hand under the ball = rev'ing the ball. As you are falling through, your hand follows the rotation of the ball on it's own. I am not manipulating my wrist in any way, the position of the holes and weight of the ball change my hand position during follow through. There is absolutely no strain.

I am not a stroker, I am a cranker with a good amount of roll.

He has said he wants to bowl more often, which to me says he wants to hook it. He's even said he wants to. A urethane ball is more appropriate to do that with.

SHOW ME DOCUMENTATION ON THE NET that recommends your method of throwing the ball. I have never heard anyone recommend that, much like I've never heard anyone recommend kicking the ball down the lane. Everyone will tell you, hand behind the ball... thumb points upward or some slight variation... cupped hand generates more hook.

And my description of a suitcase grip is exactly right. Was the transition from me holding the suitcase to holding a ball too difficult an idea for you to understand? Get your terminology right.

[hitech]

It has been alluded to but not really discussed here in detail. There is something more important than entry angle or ball weight. Making the ball "roll" properly is the most important thing to getting strikes. Getting the ball to "turn over" as it hits the pins make a bigger difference than both of those things. When the ball "turns over" as it hits the pins it knocks the head pin down and sends it "flying" horizontally. When I throw the ball right the head pin comes all the way back across the pin deck on it's side. I can hit light enough (with a 16lb ball) that the ball doesn't take out the 5 pin and still carry consistently with the head pin taking out the 5 pin on it's way back across the pin deck. Of course the problem is throwing it right in the first place.

On ball weight, you should use the weight that works best. That can be hard to determine. You need to get the ball to roll correctly. You need to keep it from deflecting too much when it hits the pins. However, it needs to deflect too much or you will start leaving solid 8s. Generally speaking you should throw the heaviest ball you can throw properly. The key word is properly. There is a lot to that.

I know some of the pros were experimenting with lighter weight bowling balls because they were driving too much. I never did find out what the results were.

On the "suit case" release. That's a very easy way to teach someone. If they want to learn bad habits and be a mediocre bowler it's fine. Otherwise it's a poor choice. Ever see a pro use that release?

[Miscue]

Originally posted by hitech
It has been alluded to but not really discussed here in detail. There is something more important than entry angle or ball weight. Making the ball "roll" properly is the most important thing to getting strikes. Getting the ball to "turn over" as it hits the pins make a bigger difference than both of those things. When the ball "turns over" as it hits the pins it knocks the head pin down and sends it "flying" horizontally. When I throw the ball right the head pin comes all the way back across the pin deck on it's side. I can hit light enough (with a 16lb ball) that the ball doesn't take out the 5 pin and still carry consistently with the head pin taking out the 5 pin on it's way back across the pin deck. Of course the problem is throwing it right in the first place.

On ball weight, you should use the weight that works best. That can be hard to determine. You need to get the ball to roll correctly. You need to keep it from deflecting too much when it hits the pins. However, it needs to deflect too much or you will start leaving solid 8s. Generally speaking you should throw the heaviest ball you can throw properly. The key word is properly. There is a lot to that.

I know some of the pros were experimenting with lighter weight bowling balls because they were driving too much. I never did find out what the results were.

On the "suit case" release. That's a very easy way to teach someone. If they want to learn bad habits and be a mediocre bowler it's fine. Otherwise it's a poor choice. Ever see a pro use that release?

Absolutely, correct roll is what gives you an optimal entry angle. Trick is to learn how to control it.

Yes, heaviest weight that can be thrown properly. Yup. That does not mean heaviest weight that can be thrown w/o strain or pain. It takes some experience to figure out what weight that is, hence why I stress to be careful and to favor a lighter ball when unsure.

[RRfireblade]

Originally posted by Miscue
SHOW ME DOCUMENTATION ON THE NET that recommends your method of throwing the ball.

From Tips from the Pros......

Many people bowled well in the "old days" with the tried and true "Suitcase" release. This type of release had the hand on the side of the ball with the thumb and fingers coming out of the ball at the same time. If, however, you are using that release these days and your average is dropping, something different is needed. That could be a different hand position such as staying behind the ball instead of coming off the side of the ball.

Dana Miller Mackie.

"Old days"

From the Bowlers dictionary.....


SUITCASE GRIP
Holding the ball as you would the handle of a suitcase; promotes reduced hook.

Definitely NOT a recommendation.

[autobowl]

http://www.beachbowlproshop.com/page1.htm

Well, if this is your first ball and you want to start hooking it... you should start off with a urethane ball or a VERY mild cheap reactive - like a Shadow/R if they even exist anymore. If you throw it straight and don't plan on changing that, then you can just get a polyurethane (plastic) ball.

The Scout Urethane in the link above would work out well for a starter ball. Remember that you have to pay for drilling, and possibly a thumb slug (recommended) and finger inserts (recommended) for a finger-tip grip.

Also... most drillers don't know what they are doing. They are bowlers who end up working at a pro-shop and just know how to make holes. There's a lot to drilling a bowling ball. Whoever is working on your ball should seem smart and able to explain very well about how bowling balls work and the nuances of drilling. If he makes fun of other drillers who suck, or talks about how he fixes other people's crap work all the time... that's the guy you want.

You might want to take it to a shop that's not in a bowling alley, where that is all that they do... normally they have to be very good and keep loyal customers to stay in business. However, they often charge a bit more than a bowling alley does, depending. Just check around...

Also, check their prices first before you order one off the net. Normally they throw in drilling for free if you buy from them. Bowling balls off the net come in an unknown condition... typically you'll get a better ball if you buy it from a local shop. I think sometimes they sneak in seconds or something. They can also warranty it for you in the rare case that it is defective. It's generally more polite to buy the ball from the person drilling it. Just ask to see their urethane balls, it doesn't matter too much what brand or whatever... just needs to be urethane.

Now, a urethane ball has a controllable hook (if thrown correctly)... but doesn't have that big nasty curve and snap like the more expensive reactive and proactive balls - which you will not be able to utilize and will hurt your game. Now, they do not curve by themselves. If you do not throw it right, it doesn't matter what ball you use.

Also, don't be macho and go for the heavy bowling ball... that is incredibly retarded and you're gonna suck if you do that. 15 is as high as you should go even if you can handle a 16. There's nothing wrong with going with a 14 either, that's what I use... I can't hook a 15 as well.

DO NOT get it from a sporting goods store.

Another site with more stuff: https://www.bowlingline.com

This is well put. I just happened upon this thread while browsing the forums. Pleasantly surprised to find others on here clearly as in to bowling as I am.

[going_home]

Maybe not oh necroposter.

Miscue hasn't posted for 6 years....

[alpha_q_up23]

At least his name has bowl in it