Classic and RT Tech Guide
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Created by:
Bunny
- Published: 03-14-2013, 08:01 PM
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- 9. What Not to Do
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automagsUK.com: Classic and RT Tech Guide
The Basics
1. Dont loosen the field strip screw or the front frame screw while the marker is gassed up.
2. When you take apart the marker and reassemble it, make sure it has the Rail Bushing(pictured below). It goes in the rail and back of the trigger frame.
Rail Bushing
3. Don not try and run the RT/RTP or a mag with an Xvalve with Co2.
4. When taking the valve out. After you have degassed, pull the trigger to release trapped air if you have the level 10(see level 10). After taking the field strip screw out, before forcing the valve out - turn off the safety and pull the trigger.
5. Do not overtighten the field strip screw, slightly past hand tight with an allen wrench is fine.
6. Never modify the valve or rail in any way so that the Z-lock pin does not glide thru the rail track.
For Dummies
There are people out there who think they can achieve better performance by modifying parts. They are wrong. If the existing marker could reach a better performance as it is, it would come that way out of the factory.
7. DO NOT shave the sear or adjust the trigger rod.
8. DO NOT modify the on/off pin length, you will end up with a marker that either wont work, or wont be allowed anywhere. This also voids your warranty.
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by Bunny
Originally Posted on AutomagsUK.com
The Classic 68Automag and the Minimag are both pretty much the same marker(the Mini is the newer version that came out with updated parts but anything that goes into the Mini can go into the Classic and vice-versa. The only difference between both markers is the body and the laser engraving on the outside of the valve. From now on you know when I say "A.I.R. valve" I mean the Classic 68Automag and the Minimag.
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Channel: Technical Guides
03-14-2013, 08:01 PM -