Rigging a Tippmann-like Response Trigger

[peeeto]

thanks for the input - i'm still considering my options, but am leaning toward tapping a new 10/32 hole & testing off of that "port". the Tippmann RT cylinder appear to be larger dia. than the stock cylinders, so unless the "captured" pressure is much greater than that captured by the Tippmanns...

anyways, if i do anything it won't be until winter when i can "afford" to have the marker down for a while. i'll definitely post anything i find out if i ever get around to this.

p.s. the proline AR trigger sounds interesting - i'll take a look at it.

[djellum]

design flaw

Lots of this was said before but heres my view anyway.

Your trigger taste is your own so I wont knock it, but you already know there is a major design difference between the mag and tippmann. you cant get the air from the body or barrel. A hundred psi is actually quite a bit of pressure, its about what a normal air compresser puts out. close your hand over the porting and shoot the gun, then put your palm over the air compresser nossle and give it a blast. I think you will notice the porting of your gun doesnt give 10% of what the compresser does. After that put your hand over the feedneck and fire. theres not any air movement because the bolt seals with the barrel. Your air supply will have to come prevalve, not post.

Cost analysis is yours to do so I wont get into it. The only real difference in the 2 performace wise is tippmanns ability to adjust the sensitivity on the marker instead of at the tank. like what was said earlier, maybe an RT is reactive enough on its own and you can do the pneumatics to get your trigger adjust, but the tolernances between the trigger sear and the pneumatics would complicated to get right, since there both trying to do the same thing. 2 pistons punching quickly at the same time = presice timing, constant spring tension assisting like was said earlier = punchier feel with no timeing.

I dont know if any of this can work on an RT (or anything else, its just a theory) but if you set it up this way I dont think you would need a RT valve. basic pneumag conversion except a cylinder behind the trigger lever is added and the valve needs to keep that cylindar filled until the trigger is pulled then switch the air to the shooting port, then back to the origional port. Im sure they make a valve that can do this. If your trigger finger can handle the same pressure as the pneumattics use to fire the gun you would only need one LPR. You may need a spring putting tension on the pull to assist your finger. If you wanted to adjust trigger pull seperate from trigger sear pressure you would need to run it on 2 valves and 2 LPR's (or 1 valve as long as it has its input and output pairs seperate from each other).

Any way you cut it, you are going to have to set your input pressure to feed all the pneumatics and the shot, so you may find your self just upping the tank pressure to fill the pneumatics instead of just working an RT like its already designed.

Good luck, though