Still have emag problems...

[robnix]

Still got em...it seems the valve is the culprit. I'm going to get some air and test a different valve in my emag tomorrow so I can be more sure, here's what I'm dealing with though:

The sear seems work fine with no valve:

<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/kLIoLTkha8w" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"> </embed>

That's with the Xmod software set at 16bps. Sorry about the lousy video, I did that to get the sound with my camera phone. I got about 16bps when I counted the soundwave.

When the valve is in thought, this isn't the result I get, sometimes it cycles at this speed, sometimes it seems to really struggle. Everything specs out fine, the plunger rod and on/off pin have both been measured with digital calipers, battery is charged, and the tank I was using went from about 2800 psi to drained while testing.

[mostpeople]

man that video is dark I cant see a thing

[robnix]

man that video is dark I cant see a thing

The picture is irrelevant, all you would see is my finger sticking into the back of the mag holding the back of the sear down so it would cycle properly with no valve. I was really just trying to get the sound of the sear moving without the valve attached. The sear will cycle fine, but with the valve in it only sounds like this sporadically.

[questionful]

Hm. . . maybe your sear just doesn't line up with the on/off pin right? or maybe the hole in the mainbody?

[athomas]

When you are using the valve, I assume it is aired up when you are testing. Otherwise there would be almost no click in some instances due to the sear assembly not having anything to reset it. With air, the velocity setting should be at least 20fps above the minimum fps that the gun will shoot at. That being said, the level 10 should be tuned and a fresh bolt spring should be used. Make sure the bolt sring is not worn out or weak. They do wear out.

[robnix]

When you are using the valve, I assume it is aired up when you are testing. Otherwise there would be almost no click in some instances due to the sear assembly not having anything to reset it. With air, the velocity setting should be at least 20fps above the minimum fps that the gun will shoot at. That being said, the level 10 should be tuned and a fresh bolt spring should be used. Make sure the bolt sring is not worn out or weak. They do wear out.

In my very dark video, I'm using my finger on the back of the sear to reset it. There's no air involved in that video. I keep forgetting to bring my tank to work so I can get a fill on the way home so I can test it with air again.

[athomas]

I understand that the dark video is without air. You mentioned that you drained an air tank when testing so I assumed your inconsistent operation occured when using air.

[robnix]

I understand that the dark video is without air. You mentioned that you drained an air tank when testing so I assumed your inconsistent operation occured when using air.

Correct. I'm putting my tank in my truck tonight so I can get a fill tomorrow. I'll start out with a fresh spring on the L10, tune it, and go from there.

[flyingpootang]

Rob, Things I would check are: detent moves free, plunger rod is straight, noid cleaned out with metal polish, ground/positive/all connections are good, any unusual rubbing wear & the on/off pin is not bent.

[robnix]

Rob, Things I would check are: detent moves free, plunger rod is straight, noid cleaned out with metal polish, ground/positive/all connections are good, any unusual rubbing wear & the on/off pin is not bent.

Thanks, I'll check all those as well as taking my valve apart to make sure there's no obstuctions.

[robnix]

Rob, Things I would check are: detent moves free, plunger rod is straight, noid cleaned out with metal polish, ground/positive/all connections are good, any unusual rubbing wear & the on/off pin is not bent.

A few things after testing more tonight:

Should the solenoid move slightly in the frame when the screw is in?
The trigger registers fine, but with air and the xmod software on full auto, there were times that the solenoid would not move at all and times when it would all of a sudden fire fine.

I'm stumped. I can't figure out if this is a valve, solenoid, or xmod issue. Dwell is at 25, fix is at 17, bps is at 16.

[BigEvil]

A few things after testing more tonight:

Should the solenoid move slightly in the frame when the screw is in?
The trigger registers fine, but with air and the xmod software on full auto, there were times that the solenoid would not move at all and times when it would all of a sudden fire fine.

I'm stumped. I can't figure out if this is a valve, solenoid, or xmod issue. Dwell is at 25, fix is at 17, bps is at 16.

Before I declare your noid shot, is the plunger rod where it connects to the sear bent? The plunger should move absolutely freely when its all together. When you tilt it forward the plunger should move.

[flyingpootang]

Edit: Rob what's your dwell settings, any recent work done, re-anno, board ground good, any bolt wear marks inside your body, and is your L10 bolt tight when pulled out by hand?

It's normal for the noid to move with the screw is in.

[questionful]

dwell is at 25

[robnix]

Edit: Rob what's your dwell settings, any recent work done, re-anno, board ground good, any bolt wear marks inside your body, and is your L10 bolt tight when pulled out by hand?

It's normal for the noid to move with the screw is in.

It's the 12th man mag, so yes there's been some recent ano work done.

Everything looks fine, and it worked great after I got it back and reassembled it.